I've posted these information to the HK discussion page, but it doesn't hurt to copy it here:
Customer service suggested me the following replacements:
TGS10x6F for the prop and 45FPSPIN for the spinner.

I've found out (and confirmed since then by manual programming, no card yet), that the product id of the ESC is: F-20A

Thanks MDE,
10X6 looks a bit too big prop, but if it's the suggested one, it must be good.
I'm using a carbon prop 9.5X5 and it looks good, but I'm waiting to receive my watt meter to check it.
Spinner 45FPSPIN would be good, if HK wouldn't have it in backorder since so long time...
I've bought it in another shop in UK.
My new problem is motor: yesterday I've lost the shaft and the case; I was checking the plane before flying, I gave full throttle and the prop teared off, with motor shaft and case.
After few meters of lone flight, prop beated a tree and kicked out the shaft.
I've found the prop, but I haven't been able to find motor's case and shaft in the grass.
Maybe, the shaft lock seeger ring was damaged.
I found Turnigy SK3 Aerodrive 2830 - 1.130 Kv on HK site and it looks good for Walrus, but I'm not sure 100%.
For this reason, I'd like to have a spare part list for Walrus, as it is for many other planes.

This glider is really nice for is value. The stock power is enough for all basic stunts. The flaps helps a lot for land in small areas. I also made a video of the flight, hope you like

Walrus Glider from HobbyKing (2 min 37 sec)

Happy landings,
G.Santos

I have used the 9.5x5 CF folding prop from HK, just ran a Watt meter over it, peak amps 17A and it drew 180Watts, its a little tight in the stock spinner but with a little work will be fine as a replacement.
Looks the part as well

I have seen many fly this like a conventional plane ,but how about catching a thermal what are its characterisics then ?,
it looks good to me I have examined one closely and would only add a bit of carbon fibre flats strips along the inside of the cockpit sides right up and attaching to the motor mount , I havent looked closely at the motor used but if its like many others I would probably use something else that would swing a 10" to 12" folder at slower revs. I havent checked the folder hub diameter to see if any of the turbo vented HK folder hubs could be used, personally I dont like plastic folder hubs I have had them throw blades in the past, the german ones are an exception but the choice of plastics used in a lot of chinese products are suspect.imho.

Originally Posted by olmod

I have seen many fly this like a conventional plane ,but how about catching a thermal what are its characterisics then ?,
it looks good to me I have examined one closely and would only add a bit of carbon fibre flats strips along the inside of the cockpit sides right up and attaching to the motor mount , I havent looked closely at the motor used but if its like many others I would probably use something else that would swing a 10" to 12" folder at slower revs. I havent checked the folder hub diameter to see if any of the turbo vented HK folder hubs could be used, personally I dont like plastic folder hubs I have had them throw blades in the past, the german ones are an exception but the choice of plastics used in a lot of chinese products are suspect.imho.

I haven't had the chance to take it to somewhere with large enough thermals but I tried to thermal it in quarter of a knot lift (guess) at my park and it did not lose any height. The thermaling radius is around 10m (5m with full flaps).

I should have strenghtened the cockpit as you said as it has buckled from heavy landings (not crashes).

The new ESC still gets hot when ran as a 7 channel glider but at least the spinner is attached properly (and is reasonably strong).

Originally Posted by molond

IThe new ESC still gets hot when ran as a 7 channel glider but at least the spinner is attached properly (and is reasonably strong).

If you feel the back of the ESC after loading it up with servo's you can locate the regulator chips they will be the hot spots and with a hobby knife cut away the heat shrink to expose the chips and glue rails along the sides to allow some air to keep the chips cool , I have in the past glued (heatsink adhesive) a long copper foil to those chips and cut a slot so that the foil can be attached to the outside of the fuselage. most ESC regulator chips are rated at 3 amps into a (theoretical)infinite heatsink, I have cut open a few that claimed to be 5 amp and checking the spec sheet only to find they were 3 amp.

Hi All,

Love my Walrus. However I am having problems with setting the brake on the ESC. Initially it was set. Somewhere along the line it seems to have changed its mind and now the prop windmills so I need to know how to set the brake back on.

My esc is unlabelled, covered in black heat shrink and has no cooling fins. If anyone can tell me how to set the brake I would be appreciate it.

@MikeRobey42:
Switch on the radio tx.
Set throttle on the radio to maximum.
Connect the battery to the ESC; You'll ear a series of five "BEEP", then set throttle to minimum.
Disconnect battery from ESC.
Now You ESC has the brake on.
If You want to set it off, do the same again.

Originally Posted by Ricky971

@MikeRobey42:
Switch on the radio tx.
Set throttle on the radio to maximum.
Connect the battery to the ESC; You'll ear a series of five "BEEP", then set throttle to minimum.
Disconnect battery from ESC.
Now You ESC has the brake on.
If You want to set it off, do the same again.

Much obliged. That did the trick. Thanks.

Originally Posted by MikeRobey42

Much obliged. That did the trick. Thanks.

You're welcome!

Originally Posted by MikeRobey42

Hi All,

Love my Walrus. However I am having problems with setting the brake on the ESC. Initially it was set. Somewhere along the line it seems to have changed its mind and now the prop windmills so I need to know how to set the brake back on.

My esc is unlabelled, covered in black heat shrink and has no cooling fins. If anyone can tell me how to set the brake I would be appreciate it.

Originally Posted by Ricky971

@MikeRobey42:
Switch on the radio tx.
Set throttle on the radio to maximum.
Connect the battery to the ESC; You'll ear a series of five "BEEP", then set throttle to minimum.
Disconnect battery from ESC.
Now You ESC has the brake on.
If You want to set it off, do the same again.

hello to all,
from the initial bind I got the brake on simply by reducing few points the throttle trim.
ciao.

Thanks Cillyjr,
I'll try it!

Just a heads up...replacement props are in stock!

Thanks for the heads up, I ordered a replacment, here is the link

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...inner_Set.html