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Old Sep 02, 2012, 03:55 PM
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United States, NH, Bedford
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I can see where these kits could be addictive. I'm already thinking about one for a winter build. Comet? Meteor? I'm also trying to work the nerve to do a scratch build just from plans. What to do...
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 12:39 PM
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portablevcb's Avatar
Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
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Kits are addictive.

If you havent done a plans build you owe it to yourself to do one. It is somehow even more rewarding to do something like an enlarged plan of another design. The small amount of design work needed and the fact that you really will have a one of a kind is worth it.

Or hacking an existing kit. Adding flaps, retracts or other major features is q good way to enhance a kit build.

Charlie
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 10:13 AM
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United States, NH, Bedford
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I'm trying to make a logical progression through my builds to make sure I get to learn commonly used skills. My first plane was from Stevens Aero, so the build was completely pre-planned, all the parts were there, no real decision making was necessary which was perfect. I learned how to work with balsa and CA, how to set up controls, how to set up the electronics, how to cover, etc. With this short kit I get to work from a plan, cut sticks, bend gear, try aliphatic glue and epoxy, etc. As well, I'll get to set up pull/pull control for the rudder, try my hand at planking, use a new covering, etc.

I'm thinking my winter build may be another of these kits or try a pure plan build. I've picked up a couple of Ivan Pettigrew's plans, his planes fascinate me, but they may be a little too advanced for my 3rd build. From reading build logs, his plans seem to leave a little more open to interpretation than I may want at this point. We'll see, I still have a ways to go with this one, so plenty of time to decide.
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 11:07 AM
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Steve Merrill's Avatar
USA, IL, St Charles
Joined Nov 2002
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Building from magazine plans is great! Kits and short kits are easier, as the hard work is done for you, in terms of having formers, ribs, ect already cut with a laser. But building from nothing but plans will give you something very unique, and satisfying. Plus, you can say you built it yourself.
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 12:45 PM
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United States, NH, Bedford
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Setting up tail controls

Slow going over the last week. I've installed the lever that moves the wing joiner carriage and installed wedges inside the wing joiner box that both guide the wing joiners and transfer loads to the fuselage. Now I can plug the wings in and secure them, very cool.

I've also started laying in the stringers on the fuselage and realized I was going to quickly lose access the back end of the plane so I'd better make some decisions about how I'm going to run the elevator and rudder controls. My primary concern being servo orientation (right side up or down) and where the wires/rods will exit the fuselage.

For the rudder, I have a pull/pull kit so I'll test run those wires.

For the elevator, my initial thought is to tie the elevator halves together and have a single control horn. I'm just not sure what kind of control arm to run. Wire in a plastic tube? Balsa stick with wire ends? Other?

Jim, if you (or anyone who has built the kit) happen to have photos of your setup that could be posted they may be worth the proverbial thousand words.

Other ideas or considerations would be much appreciated.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 07:42 AM
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Jim Young's Avatar
Brighton, MI USA
Joined Jun 2000
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Hi,

I used a split control rod for the elevator. If you are going to attempt the "scale" strap hinges, then this setup makes a lot of sense. The scale hinges are removable, so keeping the elevator halves separate makes installation and service easier.

For the control rod, I used hard balsa or spruce with music wire bound to each end. These are light, strong, and cheap to put together. One thing to keep in mind with a split control rod is to try and setup the servo arm so the control rod runs down the center of the fuselage. If you have it angled, each elevator half may not move equally through the range of motion. I also add a few support pieces at each fuselage former to keep the rod from bending under load.

Another option that Mark Wolf used on my 45" Waco, was to use separate servos on each half of the elevator. Where I recommend HS-65's for a single servo, you could get by with a pair of HS-55's or HS-45's. This makes the setup a bit easier and the travel on each servo can be handled by the mixing on your radio.

Fishing two single control rods through the fuselage may be easier than a split control rod. I pretty much build my control rod into the fuselage, and had it taped down so the ends of the rods just poked through the fuselage at the tail during construction. Then once it was covered, I just had to slit the covering and push the rods through.

Check my original build thread, and there may be some photos of my setup.

-Jim
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 09:41 AM
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United States, NH, Bedford
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Thanks for the ideas, Jim, I'll look into the split control rod for the elevator and see what I can come up with. The two servo approach seems more than is needed for the situation.

When I first began the build, I went through your thread and copied every picture in it to a single document for easy reference. I went through it again and there are a couple of shots of the tail in which you can see the end of a control wire just poking out between the stringers, but that was all.
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 01:39 PM
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Tail control setup

Took a few nights to get to a setup that I think works. I build a split control rod for the elevator per Jim's suggestion. At first I just had the wires coming off the end of the balsa stick in a V but when I pushed the control rod back, the shrinking distance between the two wires bound in the yellow nyrod tubes. I fixed that by making the bends you see in the pictures so the wires are as wide as the guide holes in the rear former.

It looks like I need to invert the servo for the rudder pull pull setup. When I put both servos in upright the pull pull wires rubbed the bottom of the control rod. Inverted keeps a space. My only concern will be adjusting the tension in the wires with the servo upside down like that.

Finally, I think I'll run the nyrod tubes from the guide holes in the last former out through the fuselage side. I'll position them once I have the horizontal and vertical stabs attached and maybe add a little balsa piece around them to glue to.

Now I can cut the rest of the stringers and glue it all it up.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 09:25 AM
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Brighton, MI USA
Joined Jun 2000
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Looks like you figured it out.

For setting the pull-pull tension, I've been adding a small spring on one side of the rudder horn. I found a package of miscellaneous springs at home depot. I cut a 1/4" section from a long spring and hooked it to the control horn and then tied the cable to it. This keeps the cables taught, and provides some give if I hit the rudder on something. I put the spring on the left side of the rudder, since you typically need right thrust on a plane.

-Jim
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 07:43 PM
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United States, PA, Washington
Joined Sep 2011
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subscribed...just started thinking of getting back into kits after a 40 year hiatus
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 07:57 PM
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United States, NH, Bedford
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Welcome, pmacko, hope you enjoy the show. Are you debating on a couple of kits yet or just browsing?
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Stringers are on and now to fitting the horizontal stab. I haven't glued the stab in yet, I'm still playing with positioning it and how to mark it up so I can put it back the same way once I have the glue in place. I do think there will be a bit of sanding on the crutch as it's a little off from level.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 04:53 PM
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United States, PA, Washington
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campbelltf View Post
Welcome, pmacko, hope you enjoy the show. Are you debating on a couple of kits yet or just browsing?
HI Tim,

Thanks for the response. I am kicking around a couple of parameters and would appreciate any guidance you or anyone else can offer. I have a couple motors and controllers that I would like to use if possible but not absolutley necessary.

First of all my interest lies in WW1 or Golden Age planes. Biplanes are a special interest but my first kit can be a monoplane as I develop the skills.

The motor/ESC combos I have are:

I'd like to use something besides tissue to cover the surfaces.

All of my kit experience is with the Guillow models of WW1 biplanes from 40 years ago. I loved the feeling of accomplishment that I had when I flew one of these models in free flight. I've been flying RC for about a year now with Parkzone and FMS foamies and want to see what it's like to actually have something I built make a turn and come back

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Paul
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 01:48 PM
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Paul, I wish I had more knowledge/experience in the hobby so I could make recommendations. I'm still figuring out how certain motor/ESC/prop/battery combos translate to model size/weight/performance parameters. So far I've just gone with power setups recommended by the kit designer.

There is a good thread here that includes a long list of kit manufacturers. Maybe you can find a kit from one of these places.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ight=die+breed
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Should I cover now?

Finally got the horizontal stabilizer sanded and shimmed so it's level and aligned squarely with the fuselage. As I was going to get the glue to make it stick I wondered if it would easier to cover it before I glue it in place. If I'm using Monokote (though I'm nervous about that and may switch to Ultracote), are there pros/cons to covering the horizontal stab before attaching it?
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