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Old Aug 06, 2012, 10:07 PM
Build, Fly, Crash, repeat
big_poppa4904's Avatar
United States, NC, Shelby
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nitro motor got wet, now what?

Crashed my 40 size Stik into a tree and it got rained on. Motor got pretty wet. It is a OS 40 is all I know. It turns over by hand pretty good. Dont seem like its binding up or anything. muffler took a lick.

But anything I should do to the motor to ensure it (hopefully) will run again one day? I don't plan to get another plane for the motor for a while. Any oil, WD40 or anything I should spray on it or inside it?
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 10:17 PM
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I like to flush them out good with WD-40 and then oil them a little with something better. Then fire them on back up and get them flying again. Many years ago we used to dunk the engines quite regularly using airboats in the ocean. We were trying to jump the little waves at the beach then. The radio systems didn't fare as well as the engines did though. We had to take apart the RX and servos and flush them with fresh water real good, and we had to do it fast before the salt water corroded everything. Usually we could get the radio gear working again, but sometimes not. But the engines merely needed to be flushed out some with glow fuel and the engines were ready to go again.
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 11:06 PM
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how exactly do I "flush" the engine with WD40 or other oils?
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Old Aug 06, 2012, 11:23 PM
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I guess at our last club "float fly" a couple of the guys dunked their engines pretty good. Like completely submerged. They brought them back in, removed the glow plug and spun it over with a starter to pump out the water. They were immediately re-fueled and they started right up, more or less. Nobody said anything about the radio gear.

Ken
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 01:11 AM
TigreJohn
United States, CA, Corona
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As "kenh3497" presented, run the engine as soon as possible to "blow out" any water that may be residual in the motor, preferably with a fuel that has castor oil as a part of the lubricant package. I personally don't like using WD-40 as a flush as it does not have any anti-rust component in it, nor is it a lubricant. If you can't run the engine, give it a good shot of after run oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, or auto trans oil thru the carb and the glow plug hole. And give it quite a few flips to work the oil in.
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 01:21 AM
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Just run it. Make sure it turns over and then just run it. Oil well when done.
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 01:46 AM
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Birmingham, Alabama
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Flush them by running the engine.
Please note you shouldnt do that to one that has sit without oil for very long. Reoil it first.
You can also take the rear crankcase off and that makes it go much faster.

Frankly... This is god's way of telling you its time for a Crockpot+antifreeze bath and lube up with ATF!



Generally the engines are none the worse for wear in fresh water. Little of conciquence will rust. Screws/nuts/bolts, bearings, ring if its a ringed engine, needle valve. Thats about it on a 2 stroke. All cheaply replaceable parts or psrts that are easy to remove rust from.
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 01:48 AM
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Plus, so few people ever clean the inside of their engine spent castor oil builds up and protects half the junk inside it hah
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earlwb View Post
I like to flush them out good with WD-40 and then oil them a little with something better. Then fire them on back up and get them flying again. Many years ago we used to dunk the engines quite regularly using airboats in the ocean. We were trying to jump the little waves at the beach then. The radio systems didn't fare as well as the engines did though. We had to take apart the RX and servos and flush them with fresh water real good, and we had to do it fast before the salt water corroded everything. Usually we could get the radio gear working again, but sometimes not. But the engines merely needed to be flushed out some with glow fuel and the engines were ready to go again.
You mentioning ducking your boats brought back fond memories of a time when I was into boating myself so here are a few pics of the simple airboat that I've kept all these years with that reliable simple OS Max 15. Built it from a plan, we were five of us and we did put a big needle up front trying to burst balloons on the water. I remember having to wash out and dry the engines as well as electronics and then spray some electronic cleaner on the insides of the receiver. I was smoking Belga cigarettes at the time hence their logo.
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Yeah I think I should have worded that better, with the 2 stroke engines you can remove the glow plug and flip the prop some to expel the water and put the plug back in and the engine should fire on up and be running again in no time. But if the electronics got wet, then if you can't run the engine right away, you need to flush it out some after getting most of the water out. WD-40 works well as it is a water displacement oil and helps remove more water from the engine. But it isn't a long lasting oil though, so if you are going to put the engine up for a while you need to use a better oil in it.

Nice boat Reginald, it reminds me of some of the airboats I had over the years. The first airboat was one I ran on Okinawa when I was in the USMC. It was sold under the Futaba brand at the time and it used a .20 size engine. It was mostly ABS plastic but it looked fast just sitting still. Anyway a number of us all got them and were staging races and wave jumping competitions in a little cove nearby on base. It was ocean water and salty of course. It isn't easy jumping waves as the torque reaction from the engine and prop will flip the boat right on over as soon as it gets a little air under it. You have to time several things just right or you get to go swim for your boat. But at the time the temperatures were great and the water was fine too.

After that I built several Duma airboats of different kinds and a large scratch built wedge shaped airboat as well.
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 02:45 PM
Build, Fly, Crash, repeat
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Well my plane got completely destroyed but luckily where the electronics were inside the fuse, the rain did not touch it. So I believe they are fine.

After further inspecting the motor, the only thing that got bent was the two long screws the holds the muffler on. Any idea where I can get two more??

This is a OS Max 40 motor. So I will need screws that will work with that. I did clean the motor up some. All looks well like I say except the muffler screws
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 04:04 PM
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My son had a freeflight flyaway at the 1980 Nats. It spent the fall and winter through to next spring in a tree near Dayton, OH. It blew down and was recovered. The engine was a Fox 25 run on all castor fuel. No damage. I put in some Rislone just to lube it up, then fueled up and ran it. It was fine.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 12:34 AM
TigreJohn
United States, CA, Corona
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earlwb; your using WD-40 to flush water out of wet electronics? Shame on you! Unless you are fastidious and perfect in the process, the residue left behind can still be conductive and make your efforts a waste of time (and maybe money). Don't know if they have a newer specific replacement fluid for the flushing process, But during WW II, the Navy's SOP was to use methanol or denatured alcohol to dry out wet electronics.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 01:50 AM
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He didn't say to use wd-40 on electronics. He said to use it on an ENGINE. I raced boats for years A ,B, and C hydros. They were always upside down in the water. All we did was pull the plug hit the engine with a starter and then run it in the next heat. At the end of the day Run WD-40 through them and then a good shot of Marvel air tool oil. Never had rust problems. Of course I also used castor oil.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 02:55 PM
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If the threads are ok on the muffler bolts, you can straighten it out with pliers holding onto the threaded part and bending it straight if you are careful not to nick the threads. Depending of course how bad shape the bolts are. Don't fix them if the threads are mangled at all though. A good hobby shop should have spares.
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