Is the motor cowling held on by magnets? Tried to pull it off briefly but it seems to be very tight and I did not want to damage the foam. I know the Canopy has magnets where the windshield is at. I always epoxy in a little dowel to pull the canopy off to prevent damage to the foam from compression when removing it on Parkzone T28,Corsair, and Wildcat.

Originally Posted by chardman

Is the motor cowling held on by magnets? Tried to pull it off briefly but it seems to be very tight and I did not want to damage the foam. I know the Canopy has magnets where the windshield is at. I always epoxy in a little dowel to pull the canopy off to prevent damage to the foam from compression when removing it on Parkzone T28,Corsair, and Wildcat.

Magnets on cowl, pull straight off, paint may be holding it tight
Tim

Thank you..

Originally Posted by chardman

Thank you..

While you have it out you may want to take material out between motor jugs for motor cooling. Easy if you completely remove engine piece and reglue when finished.
Tim

Just getting mine together. It came with the 40A Detrum ESC and the inline circuitboard. I had to trim the throttle down about 10 clicks to get it to "zero". The motor stutters at the lowest throttle input, but winds up fine after a couple clicks. Otherwise it seems to work okay on the bench.

I don't have any 4S Lipos and was hoping to try cruising around with a 3300mah 3S lipo. With a 13x10 Turnigy wood e-prop I am pulling 30A and over 330watts and she pulls like a mule.

The LEDs are worthless. I tried them at 5v, 7v, and 12v and it doesn't really matter... they barely glow. I popped the covers for the landing lights and replaced them with some bright white 5mm 12v LEDs (I also put some aluminum foil tape on the back of the cut-out to act as a reflector... works great). I also have some 12v 3mm green and red LEDs to replace the nav lights. I'll make a pin adapter that fits into the Lipo charging plug for power.

WAY too many stickers... at least, too many of those medallion stickers that say "Best RC 2.4Ghz etc, etc, etc". I won't be putting those on, and I won't be putting the "winged Dynam" stickers on it either -- it's just too much. I put the "N-Number" on the top wing instead of the bottom wing... in case I ever need to get to the servo/LED wires, I don't want to have to remove a sticker to get to them. I wish it had tail numbers too. My cockpit stickers were pre-applied and my sticker sheet did not include some of the smaller stickers shown in the instructions.

Mine has a fair amount of sloppy overspray where the black paint goes over the yellow paint. The worst spot is near the cockpit. I might add some combing to clean it up a bit.

OMG the cabane struts are heavy!!! I think they must weigh 12oz (guessing... I didn't actually weight them). I bet I could build some that are 3oz using traditional music wire with wood fairings. And what are the extra holes for on the interplane struts? Weird.

If I ever crash this thing, I'll tear it down, hollow it out considerably, then cover it with fiberglass and repaint it. She sure it pretty

Dynam has ruined a nearly perfect airplane by molding the strut anchors in the wings in yellow plastic instead of using carbon fiber as in the other Dynam biplanes. The anchor points begin to wear and fail almost immediately under normal flight stresses. I'm on my second set of struts already and will probably have to fabricate some carbon fiber anchors, if I want to keep this plane in the air. And I'm not sure the plane is worth the amount of work involved.

Unless Dynam corrects this problem, you're in for trouble with this particular plane. And that's a real shame since otherwise the aircraft is absolutely magnificent.

I have had no problem with this area, I followed the the lead of someone else and used 3mm button socket heads, washers and locknuts. Over 100 ten minute flights and the struts are as solid as the day I put them in.
Ken Smith
Be Safe

Two of my cabane anchors broke as well... I ended up sistering in another tab of plastic. You are right, they should be made of something stronger. And I wish the cabane struts themselves were made of CF instead of stamped steel --- they are way too heavy.

Here is my suggestion, fill in area behind plastic inserts with balsa or CF fill until level with foam. Then epoxy in a CF flat piece that extends past the cabane mounts. I thought about this as I was building but never implemented. Weather and failed ESC has kept mine in shop, high winds this weekend so maybe a good opportunity to do this mod.
Also while moving fuselage in shop I bumped rudder and it snapped clean off at hinge! I use blenderm tape to fix, probably a good mod for all hinges. I noticed some fractures in hinges on their Pitts Beast also so it is looking like a necessary mod. On ailerons I applied a light coating of canopy glue to hinge surface so that may also work, time will tell.
Tim

I taped all my hinge lines before the first flight.

I don't like all the stickers either. I bought some Avery full sheel labels, at office max, or staples, then printed actual stickers copied from the WACO web sight for the Wings, cold with WACO classic. Works great for all my scale planes.

Originally Posted by jwellsy

I taped all my hinge lines before the first flight.

probably a must do, I hate tape line on new plane though. I clear coated all my Dynams and they look super. Semi gloss polycryl.
I am hoping the canopy glue mod works. I flexed surface all the way one direction and applied thin coat of canopy glue, it shrinks when dry and drys clear, remains flexible. Foam Tac may also work, flex hinge to get some "cracking" started and do the same as canopy glue, flex in one direction light coat, when dry flex opposite direction and repeat.
Tim

Depending on how bad the break is and what you're willing to do (rip it off completely), Steve at Killerplanes has what appears to be a permanent fix with no tape that looks strong.

HOW TO FIX A BROKEN AILERON on your RC AIRPLANE #127 (5 min 52 sec)

Norm

Originally Posted by Norm62

Depending on how bad the break is and what you're willing to do (rip it off completely), Steve at Killerplanes has what appears to be a permanent fix with no tape that looks strong.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CLfRWJ_pgGA

Norm

I did this trick when rudder broke off but got nervous and backed up with tape, I used Foam Tac probably would have worked fine.
Tim

Originally Posted by jwellsy

I did have a problem with one of the bottom wing cabane mounting points. On one side of the wing the embedded plastic piece disintegrated at both mounting holes. I had used blue locktite with the original nuts and either it was bad plastic to begin with or the locktite made it brittle. But, it just crumbled into a hundred pieces. So, I made new mounting points, cut a small slot next to the original mounts and epoxied them in.

:

I had the same problem with the strut attachment points in the wings. Three of them just disintegrated without any contact with locktite. I replaced the plastic inserts with a new set and the same thing happened.

I am now inserting carbon fiber attachment points that I fabricated and have epoxied in place. Hope they hold.

I do not understand Dynam using plastic for these parts, when they use carbon fiber in all of their other biplanes.