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Old Aug 11, 2012, 12:02 PM
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DeSoto MO
Joined May 2003
578 Posts
I flew for a long time with 3.6mm on a tilt system. Without tilt Fast Forward Flight was problematic. I have recently switched to 2.8mm and enjoy it more as I don't need to use a tilt system for FFF.

Good luck with your build. Multi-rotors are a blast to fly.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Okisub View Post
Do you prefer a 2.8 or 3.6mm lens on the 600tvl camera for flying your quad?



Great build by the way! I'm waiting on some gear from RCtimer for my 1st quad at the moment.
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 08:45 AM
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Nick_P said" I installed a 7.2volt ubec into my 9x and that powers the goggles."

I was thinking of that for my AIO Goggs and futaba 8fg, how has it been working.
Would you have to take spare TX batts with you?
I go with spare batt for tx, Vtx, RX, vRx, tripod cam(soon hat cam like night flyer) and dv1 5.8 DVr, I can't wait for batt tech to get in line with moores law,
I watched your vids, (xboxlive YouTube would NOT play in order) and missed some, on fpvsetup, but ill go back and watch.
Nice work! Inspiring.
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 11:27 AM
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DeSoto MO
Joined May 2003
578 Posts
Thanks for the compliment.

The 7.2 ubec has worked flawlessly now with over 50 flights using the setup. I get 4 x 10 minute flights off of a single 500mah 3s lipo in the transmitter. Since that's all I fly a session I don't really take an extra pack. If you fly more then yes you would need to take a spare tx pack or up the mah rating.



Quote:
Originally Posted by boxhead916 View Post
Nick_P said" I installed a 7.2volt ubec into my 9x and that powers the goggles."

I was thinking of that for my AIO Goggs and futaba 8fg, how has it been working.
Would you have to take spare TX batts with you?
I go with spare batt for tx, Vtx, RX, vRx, tripod cam(soon hat cam like night flyer) and dv1 5.8 DVr, I can't wait for batt tech to get in line with moores law,
I watched your vids, (xboxlive YouTube would NOT play in order) and missed some, on fpvsetup, but ill go back and watch.
Nice work! Inspiring.
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
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Whats the chances of getting a .dxf? I'm keen to make this but would prefer to get it CNC'd.

Thanks
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 03:28 AM
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Well I put together a version of your spider quad today and although I haven't FPV'd it I am very impressed with it. I am using DT750's and in the end I only had 11x4.7 props so ran with those. FC is a KK2 which I am still getting used to tuning (with limited success so far).

I am thinking for FPV I want to move the motors out 1 or 2 inches more. With this design is the important considerations that the FC is in the middle of the motors and the CG is at the FC? Everything else is pretty much irrelevant? What about angles etc? The battery on your design sits towards the back for me with no FPV equipment on board. How did you calculate the CG? Sorry for all the questions - just want to get this all right for the KK2 board.

Thanks

Brenden

Edit: - Video on its way - uploading now.
Edit 2 - Have you got a pic of your quad completed with your FPV? Wanna see your layout it all. Cheers.
Edit 2.5 - Just saw that you have uploaded the FPV equipment vid - sorry for asking questions again.
Edit 3 -
My first proper attempt at a Quad (2 min 47 sec)
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 09:52 AM
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DeSoto MO
Joined May 2003
578 Posts
Very nice. The CoG sits at the center of the area where the top protector plate mounts. It is the point where the motor create an X. The battery should sit in the back a bit since I figured a lot of people run GoPros and would need the counter weight.

If you want to run 11" props I would extend the arms, as designed it really only fits a 10" prop without the props getting too close to the cam mount. The only caveat is when you extend the arms it will change the CoG. It will also make the frame less symmetrical. That s not a huge problem just be aware of it.

Also if you still want a .dxf file I can send you one. PM me your email addy.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 08:47 PM
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Lake County, CA
Joined Feb 2002
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Thanks Nick!

The plans are great. I moved them to illustrator to laser cut a template. The plan was to use the template to rout out of ply or some lexan I have around. Turned out the acrylic I was using for template material looks really cool. A tad heavy, but the holes are already there, so I cut the bottom too and maybe I'll just build it. 1/4" acrylic is reasonably stiff, but heavier than ply and it'll crack in a crash...BUT...I can always laser another in 5 minutes or just glue a crack with solvent. Here's pix. If anyone actually wants the Illustrator files and doesn't have CS5, I can re-upload in a older format.

Nick, there are a few extra holes in the plans (around the mounts)...were those for additional standoffs for rigidity, or something else?

Thanks again,
Gary
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 01:22 PM
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DeSoto MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hakuna View Post
The plans are great. I moved them to illustrator to laser cut a template. The plan was to use the template to rout out of ply or some lexan I have around. Turned out the acrylic I was using for template material looks really cool. A tad heavy, but the holes are already there, so I cut the bottom too and maybe I'll just build it. 1/4" acrylic is reasonably stiff, but heavier than ply and it'll crack in a crash...BUT...I can always laser another in 5 minutes or just glue a crack with solvent. Here's pix. If anyone actually wants the Illustrator files and doesn't have CS5, I can re-upload in a older format.

Nick, there are a few extra holes in the plans (around the mounts)...were those for additional standoffs for rigidity, or something else?

Thanks again,
Gary
Wow looks great. The extra holes are to locate the booms. You push a 3mm screw through then the boom hits and it locates the boom. You can then remove the screw once the booms are locked down. Also the slots you have cut out on the top plate are actually for the bottom plated. The front slot is for cam strap and the 6 in the middle are for battery straps.
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 01:56 PM
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Lake County, CA
Joined Feb 2002
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Ahhh! That makes sense on the slots. I'll just cut them from the bottom plate. That also explains why I had to move the slot for the camera away from the edge! LOL. It doesn't belong on the top plate at all. I'll fix up and re-upload the .ai files.

I recognize the holes you are talking about but the ones I was wondering about though are the ones marked with red arrows. I didn't see those in the videos...are those for added standoffs? Also I didn't recognize the two holes marked with yellow arrows. I'm guessing wire pass-throughs... so they go on the top plate right?

BTW your Solidworks plans are excellent. It will be interesting to see how many people eventually build this.
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 02:14 PM
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DeSoto MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hakuna View Post
Ahhh! That makes sense on the slots. I'll just cut them from the bottom plate. That also explains why I had to move the slot for the camera away from the edge! LOL. It doesn't belong on the top plate at all. I'll fix up and re-upload the .ai files.

I recognize the holes you are talking about but the ones I was wondering about though are the ones marked with red arrows. I didn't see those in the videos...are those for added standoffs? Also I didn't recognize the two holes marked with yellow arrows. I'm guessing wire pass-throughs... so they go on the top plate right?

BTW your Solidworks plans are excellent. It will be interesting to see how many people eventually build this.

Ok, the holes nearest the boom mounts you have pictured are zip tie holes to capture motor wires. The set of holes next to the motor wire holes in the rear part of the frame is for the posts that the topper plate attaches to in order to protect the FC. The slots marked in yellow are indeed wire pass though as well as status led window if one was to mount receiver between the plates.

See here hope it helps

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Old Aug 19, 2012, 12:55 AM
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Lake County, CA
Joined Feb 2002
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Ok Nick,

I think I have it right now. Zip tie holes on the bottom plate, topper standoff holes on the top plate. Tell me if I messed it up (again). I guess I should have first looked at the iso view, huh? Oh well.
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Last edited by hakuna; Aug 19, 2012 at 03:18 PM. Reason: removed incorrect file
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 02:14 PM
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DeSoto MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hakuna View Post
Ok Nick,

I think I have it right now. Zip tie holes on the bottom plate, topper standoff holes on the top plate. Tell me if I messed it up (again). I guess I should have first looked at the iso view, huh? Oh well.
So close. The topper plate holes go on top and bottom plate. So you can use a spacer and screw from the bottom side to thread the topper stand off on.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 03:16 PM
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Lake County, CA
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I debated whether that was the case. I was thinking the standoffs wouldn't be necessary so close to the clamped arms, but it does make the attachment of the topper plate more rigid and less vulnerable.

Ok! I think this is it!
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 01:44 PM
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DeSoto MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hakuna View Post
I debated whether that was the case. I was thinking the standoffs wouldn't be necessary so close to the clamped arms, but it does make the attachment of the topper plate more rigid and less vulnerable.

Ok! I think this is it!
Looks great!
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 10:57 PM
Just noticed I can change this
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Toowoomba QLD, Australia
Joined Nov 2005
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I've quickly finished off my interpretation of your quad:



It's all wood, MDF for the top and bottom plate, with pine legs. The colour scheme was requested by my 3yo daughter

I'm finding the KK2 board a lot more fiddly to tune compared to the old KK on my tricopter but getting happier with it every flight

The way it's balancing at the moment I might take the whole rear section off the tail. At the moment it's balancing out with the flight pack right over the CG point.

I'll be using this quad as an FPV basher. Maybe with a #16 keychain camera with a wide lens if I plan to pull of something worth showing off later.

It's nice and quick running a 4S 2650mah and rctimer 750kv motors spinning 8x4.5 props.

Thanks for sharing the design Nick_P!
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