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Old Oct 21, 2012, 08:21 AM
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United States, ID, Burley
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Originally Posted by rhampton View Post
FINALLY...FINALLY.....Maidened it this morning and it was quite nice i must say. it did take a nice tug. My back is Hurting a little but other than that the 4s made it go up pretty nice. Ok Ok, it was a little tail heavy. i wass fighting with the elevator but nothing major. Just need to add a little more weight to the nose. Once in air it had power to go from one end of park to next very fast. Another words,. it covers air space really quick. Turning is a little Flimsy. but it works. Flaps work really well. But the park i was in was small in the ground area so i had to circle around like 10 times in order to land. There was a point in time where i thought i wasnt going to land and i had to force crash it but i just kept trying and put on flaps and once i went below trees, there was no stopping now, i had to just let it glide to end of park where gate was and it stopped about and inch away from gate without hitting it. Whew,,just made it. Apparently this Glider is too big for this park, It just wont land for Nothing.
My opinion on 4s? well taking off is pretty sufficient, But a 3s i cant imagine using, that would be way underpowered in my opinion. 4s is for sure the way to go on this large glider..Banana Hobby should have made this a 4s Glider from the Get Gooo....................I'm sorry i have no videos but i needed to get to park really early without distraction from people but maiden went well.
The tail heavy part is why i had to put in a 2200-3s and a 3600-3s hooked together the thing floats forever doesnt it !? I like it !
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:18 AM
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USA, FL, Clearwater
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Originally Posted by fastfwd View Post
The tail heavy part is why i had to put in a 2200-3s and a 3600-3s hooked together the thing floats forever doesnt it !? I like it !
i will say this,,,,,for the beach, it's perfect. i live 3 minutes away and i never flew a glider at a beach before. i may take a chance and launch it. Only this is that there's the St. Pete Clearwater Airport in the same path so i am not sure if there's any laws for flying a RC plane in that path. Obviously i wont be that high and i dont even know if an airliner, Cessna would even see me...
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by fastfwd View Post
i ordered 6 new 17.5g metal gear servos just in case http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_pa...roducts_id=254
Will be anxious to see your feedback regarding these servos (fit, centering, etc.). I ordered my icharger from epbuddy, and like them. Hopefully these servos are good as well. The price certainly seems to be right.

As far as the flaps are concerned, will you replace the servo leads that come with the servos with the ones from the plane, or did you order extension cables?

Bob
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by bdeweese View Post
Will be anxious to see your feedback regarding these servos (fit, centering, etc.). I ordered my icharger from epbuddy, and like them. Hopefully these servos are good as well. The price certainly seems to be right.

As far as the flaps are concerned, will you replace the servo leads that come with the servos with the ones from the plane, or did you order extension cables?

Bob
i have no plans on replacing flap servos, but if one goes bad i will just get extension cables. i have had no twitching on any stock servos yet, just bought new ones in case i do i did put one in buddies SSS on the elevator, fits perfect,centers fine,and no problems
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:15 PM
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Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
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Originally Posted by rhampton View Post
FINALLY...FINALLY.....Maidened it this morning and it was quite nice i must say. it did take a nice tug. My back is Hurting a little but other than that the 4s made it go up pretty nice. Ok Ok, it was a little tail heavy. i wass fighting with the elevator but nothing major. Just need to add a little more weight to the nose. Once in air it had power to go from one end of park to next very fast. Another words,. it covers air space really quick. Turning is a little Flimsy. but it works. Flaps work really well. But the park i was in was small in the ground area so i had to circle around like 10 times in order to land. There was a point in time where i thought i wasnt going to land and i had to force crash it but i just kept trying and put on flaps and once i went below trees, there was no stopping now, i had to just let it glide to end of park where gate was and it stopped about and inch away from gate without hitting it. Whew,,just made it. Apparently this Glider is too big for this park, It just wont land for Nothing.
My opinion on 4s? well taking off is pretty sufficient, But a 3s i cant imagine using, that would be way underpowered in my opinion. 4s is for sure the way to go on this large glider..Banana Hobby should have made this a 4s Glider from the Get Gooo....................I'm sorry i have no videos but i needed to get to park really early without distraction from people but maiden went well.
Actually, my 3S is slightly more than enough power for a nice climb out for my 5lb plane. I suspect you do not even have that power available to you if you are using that 8x8 prop. Using that prop will quickly shorten your battery life and burn out your motor. Use a watt meter and see how big the amp draw is at WOT. An 8x8 is a very bad choice for this plane on a 4S.
AJ
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:21 PM
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San Diego, CA
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Originally Posted by Gordks View Post
I hope another post on the subject of motors does not drive anyone to do anything drastic, but I have found another that might be quite useful in the SSS.

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...5-Speed/Detail

Note that, for a 4S battery and a 9x4.5 prop, they list 83 oz of thrust at 47 amps (740 watts). Of course that would require an ESC replacement, but since I will be going with the kit I will just go for a 60 or 80 watt ESC to start with. Also, keep in mind that in the air the current draw should be lower, unless I have it pointed straight up (which might well happen ). Eighty three ounces is almost exactly the weight of the SSS so it should keep going up for quite a while. The low pitch of the prop might make one assume that it would be quite slow. But in order to get that kind of thrust from that prop it would need to be spinning VERY quickly, so it may be reasonably quick in reality. If you need more speed at the expense of thrust you could likely get that with an 8 inch prop with greater pitch. And lastly it is 170 grams. Forty more than stock, but eighty less than the Emax BL3526/04 that LA has just installed, and it actually makes more power than the bigger motor with a 9 inch prop and 4S battery. Of course the Emax with do much more with a 5S battery!

I will be ordering the SSS kit real soon (like tonight probably). I have a strong motor in my regular Sky Surfer and suspect I will miss that performance, so I will be ordering one of these Power Up 25 Speed (not Sport) motors as well.

It will be quite a while before I get it together of course but I will report on the results when I do.

Gord
The motor you found sounds like an EXCELLENT motor for the SSS. The plane's main function is to cruise slowly and majestically, of course, and no motor will change that. It's a powered glider, first last and always. But as you pointed out, occasional steep climbs can be handy (or even fun) at times. I got the Emax motor for use with a 5s battery, of course (why not? ) and ultimately hope to use it with a 3-blade 9x6 prop if current draw doesn't become prohibitive and/or thermally destructive.

NOTES ON INSTALLING A BIG MOTOR IN THE SSS

(I just found out that I've mischaracterized my own motor. HeadsUpRC calls it a 35526, which I assumed meant it had a diameter of 35mm and a length (of something) of 26mm. But someone pointed out that a diagram at the bottom of HURC's web page, specifies that it is 44mm diameter. I have corrected this post to reflect the correct dimension.)

My motor is 44mm in diameter, which is larger than the stock motor. I had to hollow out the motor pod to accommodate the Emax and leave clearance for the rotating can of the motor. Also made a second firewall from 3/16 plywood and bolted it to the original firewall, so it would be equally angled to the right and offfset as the original motor was. Cut down the X mount that came with the big motor and drilled new holes, BARELY outside the diameter of the motor can, and put small Phillips-head wood screws through them into the plywood.

I'm a little disturbed to find the firewall is slightly wobbly. Yanked the motor out again last night and found that it's the original firewall that is wobbly, apparently it is epoxied to the foam of the motor pod itself, and nothing else. That may be OK for the original motor, but I worry about more-powerful ones like these.

In the ARF plane I got, the fuselage halves were already glued together, that made it impossible to reinforce the motor mount without major surgery. Hopefully the new KIT version BH now has, will have the fuselage halves still separated. That would make it possible to cut a slot for a piece of plywood, spruce, or aluminum extending down from the motor mount thru the fuselage to just above the wing, lavishly epoxied, will hopefully make the motor mount more rigid.

Even with the hollowed-out motor mount, the larger-diameter motor still gets very little cooling air. The opening at the bottom of the firewall is mostly filled with wires, 12ga takes up more room than the original wires. I may cut a few ports through the sides of the motor pod, just forward of the cooling ports in the front (non-propeller end) of the motor, to alleviate this. Detracts a little from the smooth milky-white finish, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Also re-routed the three motor wires, they no longer go straight forward thru the cooling duct as the originals did. Now they go straight down, emerge from the base of the motor pod just above the trailing edge of the wing on the left side, and go down around the trailing edge to the externally-mounted (for cooling) 100A ESC under the left wing.

Might also put a single 4mm bullet connector on the red battery lead at the ESC since the ESC is externally mounted, so I can "turn off" all electrics in the plane with one easy unplug, instead of having to open the canopy cover and fish thru all the wires to unplug the battery there after every flight. Thought about using a 12V automotive switch, but the biggest I could find was 50A, not enouh for what I have in mind. I believe the 4mm bullet connector (identical to the one that came with the 5s 4000mAh battery) is rated for 100A or so... and if it isn't, I've got some 6mm bullets too.

I'll post photos soon. No maidening today, it's raining. And with all the extra motor and wiring work (now mostly done), the plane still isn't quite ready yet. A big, low-KV motor just isn't a bolt-in replacement on this plane.

Probably would have been wiser to cut off the top half of the motor pod aft of the firewall, and glue or magnet it back on afterward. But if I were wise, I'd be flying a Radian, not this big beautiful foam packing crate.

ON EDIT:
I just added some pictures of the EMAX motor installation. 100A Hobbywing ESC is attached to the outside of the fuselage for cooling purposes, and I put a plug in the battery + line so I can switch off the entire plane after each flight without opening it up, it is unplugged in these pics.Can also install the battery in the plane the night before, and not fiddle with it before flying in the morning.

Routed the motor wires down thru the motor pedestal. Wish I could have had them emerge below the wing, but couldn't get the drill angled over that way. Prop is an EMP 9x7.5three-blade, thrust is impressive. Motor is angled to the right as the original was. You can see two of the screws mounting the motor to the second firewall inside the motor pod in the rear view. Takes a very skinny screwdriver, it's tight. Will try to clean up the wires a little, and put some cooling ports in the sides of the motor pod next.

With the second firewall and length of the motor and collet, there's almost enough room for a 10" prop.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:23 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Jul 2009
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Anyone know if the kit comes with control rods, horns, and the like? Says airframe only on the site. Is the fuse in halves like the EZStar kit? I'm in the process of piecing a build together and wanted to know what incidentals I may need.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Plain City, OH
Joined May 2004
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My set up and experience so far...

I maidened my SSS about a month ago and thought I'd share my experience so far since this thread has given me most of the info and ideas I've used so far.

I've replaced the stock main spar with 48" carbon fiber tube from Goodwinds mentioned elsewhere in this thread. I marked the center on the rod and then pushed it in as far as it could go on first one wing half then the other. I measured the additional distance on each side and then cut and inserted a piece of wooden dowel into the appropriate wing.

I replaced the stock control wires with .047 wire and secured threaded rod with metal clevises on the end.

I'm using the velco method also mentioned elsewhere in this thread to make sure the wings stay together.


I modded the tail section so it is removable by hot gluing a 1/4 nylon nut into what looks to be a space custom made for it in the vertical stab and running the screw up through the fuse, horizontal stab and then into the nut mounted into the vertical stab. I also glued rare earth magnets into the vert and horiz stab as was shown on a video earlier in the thread This works well and the result is that I can pack the plane into its original box (which I've reinforced with a liberal amount of duct tape) for transport.


Flying stock motor and prop.
Using stock ESC which I've mounted on the outside of the fuse above the wing and also am using a Sport BEC to avoid any power / heat issues.

I've used the following batteries -3s 3300, 4s 3300, 4s 3600 Lipo

With the 3 cell she flew fine, but the climb out was sluggish so I tried the 4 cell packs and am very happy with this set up. The extra weight of the 3600 comes in handy in windier conditions. I seldom need full power but it is nice to have it there in an emergency. My ESC has never been more than slightly warm to the touch on any of my flights.

A GoPro or Canon A3300 on the nose balances it out at the desired CG which for me is right at the leading edge of the wing spar. I've flown with it further back and was not happy, this plane definitely does not like to be tail heavy.

Radio is a Futaba 7C and I've programmed the 3 position switch to control flaps up or down. I use down flaps for take off and to slow down on approach and flip them up to bleed off speed and altitude on short final. I've found that I can actually get it into shorter spaces than my Bixler.

I give this one a big thumbs up and the lessons learned in this thread have been a huge help.

Thanks guys.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:32 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
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Originally Posted by Hersh View Post
Flying stock motor and prop.
Using stock ESC which I've mounted on the outside of the fuse above the wing and also am using a Sport BEC to avoid any power / heat issues.

I've used the following batteries -3s 3300, 4s 3300, 4s 3600 Lipo
What prop are you using on 4s and what's the amp draw?
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 01:13 PM
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Chilliwack, BC Canada
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Originally Posted by onewire View Post
Anyone know if the kit comes with control rods, horns, and the like? Says airframe only on the site. Is the fuse in halves like the EZStar kit? I'm in the process of piecing a build together and wanted to know what incidentals I may need.
If someone has not answered these questions sooner I will be able to do so in a few weeks. I ordered the kit last evening. I hope the fuselage halves are separate, but I suspect they may not be. It includes the motor and that is likely already installed.

Gord
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 02:27 PM
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San Diego, CA
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Originally Posted by Gordks View Post
If someone has not answered these questions sooner I will be able to do so in a few weeks. I ordered the kit last evening. I hope the fuselage halves are separate, but I suspect they may not be. It includes the motor and that is likely already installed.

Gord
When I ordered a regular Sky Surfer kit a year or two ago, the fuselage halves were not glued together. But, different plane, different time.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 05:34 PM
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Newmarket, England.
Joined Aug 2006
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Originally Posted by rhampton View Post
i will say this,,,,,for the beach, it's perfect. i live 3 minutes away and i never flew a glider at a beach before. i may take a chance and launch it. Only this is that there's the St. Pete Clearwater Airport in the same path so i am not sure if there's any laws for flying a RC plane in that path. Obviously i wont be that high and i dont even know if an airliner, Cessna would even see me...
I can only speak for the UK but the altitude restriction only applies for radio controlled models over 7 kilos which limits the altitude to 400 feet. .

At a club event where radio controlled models are flying close to a regular airfield it is common to notify that airfield by circulating a NOTAM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NOTAM

Hope this is of some use.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 05:58 PM
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I don't know of any laws governing model airplanes near airports (which doesn't mean there aren't any). But I do know the control tower personnel get nervous over airborne things in or near their flight path, that they don't control.

They get nervous over birds, too. But at least birds will (sometimes) see fullsize aircraft comng at them, and will (sometimes) try to maneuver out of the way. Not always successfully, as Sully Sullenberger found out a year or two back.

But controllers (and pilots) know that the model plane can't see them, and they know the guy on the ground with the transmitter might be looking at his model and not looking at THEM. It makes everyone nervous. Controllers will often tell the fullsize planes they are controlling, something like, "Be aware of model aircraft activity one mile northeast of the west end of Runway 26R, from surface level up to 400 feet AGL".
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 06:05 PM
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Well i had a friend at local Flying field film from my Phone. There's no Zooming in but i tried to fly low as possible. Close call on Launching. Need to be more focused when launching cause it can go straight into ground. It flies really nice and steady. Covers Air space in a matter of seconds and when i was not filming i really got some thermos today. My longest Flight was 14 minutes. I may take AJ's advice and move to a 8x6.....an 8x8 doesnt seem to be a threat. Nothing is too hot. Battery is warm but esc is close to being hot so i may try a 8x6 and see if that makes any different. I must say it is Fun to Fly. I had it waaaaaaaa up there at one point and can still see it and it took me forever to come down...lol.....

Super Sky Surfer (3 min 13 sec)
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 06:18 PM
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Well i had a friend at local Flying field film from my Phone. There's no Zooming in but i tried to fly low as possible. Close call on Launching. Need to be more focused when launching cause it can go straight into ground. It flies really nice and steady. Covers Air space in a matter of seconds and when i was not filming i really got some thermos today. My longest Flight was 14 minutes. I may take AJ's advice and move to a 8x6.....an 8x8 doesnt seem to be a threat. Nothing is too hot. Battery is warm but esc is close to being hot so i may try a 8x6 and see if that makes any different. I must say it is Fun to Fly. I had it waaaaaaaa up there at one point and can still see it and it took me forever to come down...lol.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTVj_...ature=youtu.be
Sweet flight and a VERY sweet plane. Congratulations!

And good work on the missed approaches. Sometimes I land when I should have gone around, have had to get out the CA glue twice.

On mine the front compartment (battery, ESC, receiver) gets virtually NO air circulation. Found it pretty warm in there more than once. Linear BEC in the original ESC is especially a heat producer. So I mounted the new ESC (with switched BEC) outside, under the left wing. YMMV.
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