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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:37 PM
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San Diego, CA
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Originally Posted by fastfwd View Post
yes indeed and they work great,no problems at all ? what happened with yours ??
Hmmm, son of a gun. Mine were about 1/2" too long. My flaps could only go from "way above the wing" to "level with the wings". I finally clipped off about 1/2" from the threaded end of the metal pushrod, leaving just enough threading to go into the nylon clevis, and then screwed them way in. Then the flaps operated as normal.

Then later I found out that, when I lowered the flaps to about 45 degrees down, the control horns were pointing almost directly at the servos. It couldn't lower them any farther (which isn't such a bad thing)... but the servos were also pulling VERY hard to get them down to 45 degrees. They were essentially stalled, and they draw a LOT of current from the BEC when they are like that.

If I had left the pushrods their original length, and simply moved the control horns back about 1/2", it would have solved both problems.

Aw, nuts.

Got one more question for you: Are your flap pushrods, the same length as your aileron pushrods? (All of mine were exactly the same length.)
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:12 PM
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United States, ID, Burley
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Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
Hmmm, son of a gun. Mine were about 1/2" too long. My flaps could only go from "way above the wing" to "level with the wings". I finally clipped off about 1/2" from the threaded end of the metal pushrod, leaving just enough threading to go into the nylon clevis, and then screwed them way in. Then the flaps operated as normal.

Then later I found out that, when I lowered the flaps to about 45 degrees down, the control horns were pointing almost directly at the servos. It couldn't lower them any farther (which isn't such a bad thing)... but the servos were also pulling VERY hard to get them down to 45 degrees. They were essentially stalled, and they draw a LOT of current from the BEC when they are like that.

If I had left the pushrods their original length, and simply moved the control horns back about 1/2", it would have solved both problems.

Aw, nuts.

Got one more question for you: Are your flap pushrods, the same length as your aileron pushrods? (All of mine were exactly the same length.)
Just measured them and yes all the same
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 12:18 AM
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San Diego, CA
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Just measured them and yes all the same
Well, I'm confounded. Don't know why yours fit and mine didn't. Maybe I messed something up?

BTW, I just got in the new carbon-fiber tube spar. It's the third spar this plane has had.
The original fiberglass rod (13mm or 0.512" diameter), 309g, just wouldn't go in no matter how hard I wrenched, torqued, and hammered on it. I finally sanded it WAY down, and it (sort of) fit. Tried a slightly smaller CF tube, still had problems. Now this third one, slightly smaller yet but with thicker walls, fits well. Sources:

.500" (12.7mm), .050" wall CF tube, 90g, 48" long: Part # 020039 at
http://www.goodwinds.com/merch/list....ultrudedcarbon

.472" (12.0mm), .056" wall CF tube, 87.4g, 48" long:
https://www.acpsales.com/Carbon-Fibe...uted-Tube.html

That Goodwinds source also has them 60" long, which I believe will fit in the plane. But those would simply reinforce the outer wing panels, where bending stresses are much lower and reinforcement not so needed. And a 60" spar won't fit in the original box, if you're using that to transport the plane from home to flying field etc. You pays your money and you takes your choice.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:07 PM
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well my friend flew his SSS right nose first into the ground today ! i threw it,he was going along and said it didnt want to turn, when it just laid over to the right nosed down and smash ! totaled the nose and split the fuse. I just wanted to PUKE ! after all pieces were picked up and we settled down i checked his TX,battery voltage was down to 6v,could that have caused loss of signal ?? He has ordered a ARF and will put his rx ect in it
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:11 PM
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well my friend flew his SSS right nose first into the ground today ! i threw it,he was going along and said it didnt want to turn, when it just laid over to the right nosed down and smash ! totaled the nose and split the fuse. I just wanted to PUKE ! after all pieces were picked up and we settled down i checked his TX,battery voltage was down to 6v,could that have caused loss of signal ?? He has ordered a ARF and will put his rx ect in it
Grab your foam-safe CA glue and get busy. My regular Sky Surfer was in worse shape than that when It met a neighbor's patio from 100 feet up at nearly full power. One day later it was flying again, though the decals were somewhat wrinkly-looking. You'd be surprised how repairable these planes are.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:15 PM
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Grab your foam-safe CA glue and get busy. My regular Sky Surfer was in worse shape than that when It met a neighbor's patio from 100 feet up at nearly full power. One day later it was flying again, though the decals were somewhat wrinkly-looking. You'd be surprised how repairable these planes are.
ohhh i could fix it for him,and i might but ya think the low TX voltage caused the loss of signal ?
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:32 PM
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I had my wires spliced from where the esc starts and i installed bullets on those wires. Somehow i wish Banana hobby followed that pattern..i dont know why they soldered original esc to the wires. Makes it hard to change out esc.. Have to take motor out and that's a pain. So now i can hook up any esc i want without removing the motor. i just put bullets on those wires,. So now i have my 60a esc with 3a bec built in and i'm going to use a 4s 3000mah Lipo. Good thing is now is that the 45a esc i took out glider i can use for another 3d plane
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:34 PM
Argue for your limitations
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Last edited by ajbaker; Oct 18, 2012 at 04:45 PM.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:35 PM
what goes up, must come down..
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Originally Posted by fastfwd View Post
ohhh i could fix it for him,and i might but ya think the low TX voltage caused the loss of signal ?
Definately, if it is a 9volt system
I downed a plane last year, having a phat time flying for ages, enjoying myself flight after flight yet overlooked checking the rcTx batt voltage... mid flight the Tx beeped like crazy and before I could bring the plane in she lost rc link & down she went

I use the rcTx lipos in my futaba 9c, they go for so long compared to nimh batts I had forgotten to check volts...

Edit: are we talking about the rc transmitter/ controller or the plane rc receiver??
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Last edited by AussieHoppy; Oct 18, 2012 at 04:40 PM. Reason: a "huh??" moment... :)
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:39 PM
Argue for your limitations
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Originally Posted by rhampton View Post
I had my wires spliced from where the esc starts and i installed bullets on those wires. Somehow i wish Banana hobby followed that pattern..i dont know why they soldered original esc to the wires. Makes it hard to change out esc.. Have to take motor out and that's a pain. So now i can hook up any esc i want without removing the motor. i just put bullets on those wires,. So now i have my 60a esc with 3a bec built in and i'm going to use a 4s 3000mah Lipo. Good thing is now is that the 45a esc i took out glider i can use for another 3d plane
Make sure you use a WattMeter to monitor the numbers of the power system. It is too big a fire risk (and IMO, foolish) to not use one.
AJ
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:43 PM
Argue for your limitations
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:43 PM
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Thanks Ajbaker...i dont have one but i'll have my friend at flying field check it before i fly....I decided to go with a 8x8 APC E prop...so hopefully i will get some decent climbing power
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AussieHoppy View Post
Definately, if it is a 9volt system
I downed a plane last year, having a phat time flying for ages, enjoying myself flight after flight yet overlooked checking the rcTx batt voltage... mid flight the Tx beeped like crazy and before I could bring the plane in she lost rc link & down she went

I use the rcTx lipos in my futaba 9c, they go for so long compared to nimh batts I had forgotten to check volts...

Edit: are we talking about the rc transmitter/ controller or the plane rc receiver??
The TX not RX, and i am pretty convinced the low voltage was the culprit as the first flight two days ago it flew great !
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rhampton View Post
I had my wires spliced from where the esc starts and i installed bullets on those wires. Somehow i wish Banana hobby followed that pattern..i dont know why they soldered original esc to the wires. Makes it hard to change out esc.. Have to take motor out and that's a pain. So now i can hook up any esc i want without removing the motor. i just put bullets on those wires,. So now i have my 60a esc with 3a bec built in and i'm going to use a 4s 3000mah Lipo. Good thing is now is that the 45a esc i took out glider i can use for another 3d plane
you have a video cam on front to get CG correct ? I ask because my 3s 3600mah was not enough weight to balance it out, i had to parallel a 3s 2200mah along with the 3s 3600mah to get the center of gravity. A tail heavy plane is a road to disaster
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 05:19 PM
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you have a video cam on front to get CG correct ? I ask because my 3s 3600mah was not enough weight to balance it out, i had to parallel a 3s 2200mah along with the 3s 3600mah to get the center of gravity. A tail heavy plane is a road to disaster
i imagine i would be slightly out of balance. i have heard that too. i plane to ad a little weight to the fron. Maybe instead of weight i will do what you did. i have a 2200mah 20c Lipo i can just put in there along with the 3000mah lipo. I sure hope this thing get's out of my hand when i hand launch it. My back wont allow me to give it a force tug, i just want to be able to give it full power and just give it a gentle toss.
another thing. i installed my Hing Rods to my Ruder and elevator servo but i had to bend them to get them on the servo arm. Damm, u think they would give you easy access,,,no i bent the rod and every time i move elevator servo the wire bends...now i got a problem i have to fix..i'm thinking that maybe glueing that rubber tubing against the foam will help it from bending....damm now i'm worried...that's the last thing i need is the elevator Rod bending while in flight...
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