Originally Posted by jwellsy

What's the trick to removing the wing servos so easily?

flex the wing slightly (twisting it from root to tip) this will loosen the wing servos and then they just pop out with a little force. The glue gave way and the foam stayed perfect.

I only twist mine a few degrees, not enough to cause stress on the spar tubes.

Chris

Thanks Chris, I'll try that. I've got one side done still need to do the 2 on the other wing.

Originally Posted by BravoGolf

+1

This aint a shuttle lunch, the wx is fine, get that thing in the air!

Really looking forward to seeing a video of a SSS ruby landing!



Did I read in an earlier post that you used 1 oz kevlar? APC? Epoxy or WBPU polycrylic type product?

Whatever you did, it looks sharp. Nicely done.

Now get that thing airborn. We are all waiting on you.

BG

Here's the Kevlar I used. Search my posts for details on the application.

http://www.acpsales.com/1.7-oz.-Kevl...ain-Weave.html

It's been in the air and flies like it should. We're tweaking the Ruby a bit for better high altitude flying and ascending as well as faster aided mode cruising.
This is a great FPV platform for stable and steady flight with good slow video details.

BldrFlyr,
you only changed to a 440W motor?

With all of those modifications I wonder if my 755W motor im throwing on my rebuild is really that much overkill...

The stats from gobrushless...
APC E 10x5
14.75V
38.45A
567W
2211g thrust
77.99oz thrust

Originally Posted by chanyote66

BldrFlyr,
you only changed to a 440W motor?

With all of those modifications I wonder if my 755W motor im throwing on my rebuild is really that much overkill...

The stats from gobrushless...
APC E 10x5
14.75V
38.45A
567W
2211g thrust
77.99oz thrust

Which motor is that?

The 1000W motor in mine doesn't change the flight characteristics much. Still the same slow, soaring flights, easy cruise around the sky, launches the same (only half throttle needed for a nice climbout), lands the same, etc. But if you get in trouble, pull the nose up and apply full throttle, and it vertical-climbs out of whatever bad situation you're in. Handy. And I've gotten a number of nice, long flights out of it.

Originally Posted by BldrFlyr

Here's the Kevlar I used. Search my posts for details on the application.

http://www.acpsales.com/1.7-oz.-Kevl...ain-Weave.html

It's been in the air and flies like it should. We're tweaking the Ruby a bit for better high altitude flying and ascending as well as faster aided mode cruising.
This is a great FPV platform for stable and steady flight with good slow video details.

bldrflyr, Thanks for the flight report. Really looking forward to seeing some of your onboard footage.

I meant to correct my post...when I wrote APC I meant ACP. Thanks for the link. I just did a farily large order with them and I think I actually picked up some of the 1.7 oz Kevlar.

BG

Originally Posted by Little-Acorn

Which motor is that?

The 1000W motor in mine doesn't change the flight characteristics much. Still the same slow, soaring flights, easy cruise around the sky, launches the same (only half throttle needed for a nice climbout), lands the same, etc. But if you get in trouble, pull the nose up and apply full throttle, and it vertical-climbs out of whatever bad situation you're in. Handy. And I've gotten a number of nice, long flights out of it.

That is the Turnigy AeroDrive SK3 3542 1000kv but Im going to go with the 3542 1180kv to stay a little closer to stock kv...


Chris

i'm starting to think i may have to upgrade my motor... flying WOT for 10 minutes straight doesn't sound like the best idea

Originally Posted by chanyote66

flex the wing slightly (twisting it from root to tip) this will loosen the wing servos and then they just pop out with a little force. The glue gave way and the foam stayed perfect.

I only twist mine a few degrees, not enough to cause stress on the spar tubes.

Chris

That worked great. They came right out. Thanks.

Anybody here manage to hook up a UHF to their SSS on the tail? I ask cause I have the arf which has the fuselage glued and so I'm not sure how to route the wires to mount the UHF rx wires to keep the module at the tail. I'd hate to route all the wires externally, and outside of splitting my fuse, I'm wondering if I can punch a hole thru the whole tail section and cut a hatch out 6 in. From the tail without compromising the structure...

Originally Posted by chanyote66

BldrFlyr,
you only changed to a 440W motor?

With all of those modifications I wonder if my 755W motor im throwing on my rebuild is really that much overkill...

The stats from gobrushless...
APC E 10x5
14.75V
38.45A
567W
2211g thrust
77.99oz thrust

Here's some data on motor and props I've used. I checked my CC esc data log last night after a few flights and was pulling about 930watts with my OS and 10x6 prop.

Not sure why everyone says 440w. Look at the detailed specs of this motor on 4s 9x6, it's at 1025w.

I might try a 9x6 just see the difference in efficiency at slower cruising speeds.

Originally Posted by guaglione87

Anybody here manage to hook up a UHF to their SSS on the tail? I ask cause I have the arf which has the fuselage glued and so I'm not sure how to route the wires to mount the UHF rx wires to keep the module at the tail. I'd hate to route all the wires externally, and outside of splitting my fuse, I'm wondering if I can punch a hole thru the whole tail section and cut a hatch out 6 in. From the tail without compromising the structure...

My UHF 8ch diversity is on the tail however I had the fuse apart and internally ran the PPM wire. I still think the best location is out on the wing. I'm going to check interference and such with the vtx in the front canopy with uhf rx out back but I might relocate both vtx and uhf rx on opposite wings. That just gives you the best separation and less hardware/stuff around them. This purely is for I'd say 3+ mile range or further.

Ok thanks. I may try to fab a tube runner on the side of plane and route the wire to the tail. I have range link on the tail. With that system the wires must be vertical so on the wing may bend on landings. I'll post a pick when done.

Originally Posted by BldrFlyr

Not sure why everyone says 440w.

This is why...
From OS website:

Originally Posted by BldrFlyr

I might relocate both vtx and uhf rx on opposite wings. This purely is for I'd say 3+ mile range or further.

I agree with you on this one...
I flew easily a mile with my VTX UHF RX and both antennas inside the fuse... But this was for only testing and trimming the plane never got to fly further since my wing removed itself from the plane mid flight

Chris