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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:00 PM
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Alex Schauer's Avatar
United States, MN, North Mankato
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Ok so:
1. There is a notch In the plastic to make more room for a certain gear, and that notch is deep enough to expose the pot. Well, the gear rubs on the pot now fail
That creates significantly more amp draw, and reduces speed and torque by a lot. Also much noisier, and it ruins that gear and the pot.

As mentioned, the screws dont go all the way in, and the horns are too small, but they fit with a lot of wrestling.
There is no foam for the main board, no wire relief, there is one plastic gear in the midst if the metal gears, and the casing screws stripped out *VERY* easily.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:01 PM
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I just don't trust them in my 51 Slick.HS85's ordered.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:57 PM
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United States, WA, Issaquah
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Thanks for your review. I agree completly, those sound like typical cheap servo problems. The gear rubbing on the POT is a new one - never seen that before, totally FAIL; and there's really nothing you can do to fix it...

I seems that only some of the solar servos have all-metal gear trains. Of the ones I've tried, the D654 (micro) and D770 (standard) have no plastic gears. I have't tried any of the mini servos, but I think one should look carefully at the replacement gear sets and pick the model with all-metal gears.

MUST DO mods to these servos as far as I'm concerned: first of all, open them up and do a thorough inspection; then, add your own strain relief to the wires (hot glue), insert foam to support the board, and reinforce the casing screw holes with thick CA.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.M View Post
The motor inside these servos is not supported by the backplate. Under the vibrational environment characteristic of a heli, it can slide down into the case and lose grip on the servo gears allowing the output shaft to rotate freely.
The wires and solder joints are weak too. I had a near crash from an intermittent connection that developed inside a D654. When I opened it up one of the wires fell off the motor. The only cheap servos I trust in helicopters now are the Corona 929's. The solder joints are wiring are surprisingly robust for a servo in that price range. I also like how the case is designed to clamp the lead in place when closed.

In the price range that the D654's are in it really doesn't make sense to not just spend a little extra for Ino-Labs or Hitecs. The HG-D 202's are $20 and the Hitec HS-65's are $26 at Hobbyking. With servos I either go ultra cheap with the Coronas or I spend the money for decent quality. The middle ground really doesn't make any sense.

An alternate solution if you have an SEV2 or Sport is to use the HG-D260's or HS-82's. With some frame mods these will fit and are more robust and stronger than a micro servo for the same price. With a Sport you can just buy a set of upper frame panels with 30x13mm holes for less than $10. With the SEV2 you can use the Sport frame panels by either drilling an extra screw hole for the tail drive gear bracket or by using the Sport unified boom holder/tail drive gear holder.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.M View Post
The motor inside these servos is not supported by the backplate. Under the vibrational environment characteristic of a heli, it can slide down into the case and lose grip on the servo gears allowing the output shaft to rotate freely.
The wires and solder joints are weak too. I had a near crash from an intermittent connection that developed inside a D654. When I opened it up one of the wires fell off the motor. The only cheap servos I trust in helicopters now are the Corona 929's. The solder joints and wiring are surprisingly robust for a servo in that price range. I also like how the case is designed to clamp the lead in place when closed.

In the price range that the D654's are in it really doesn't make sense to not just spend a little extra for Ino-Labs or Hitecs. The HGD 202's are $20 and the Hitec HS-65's are $26 at Hobbyking. With servos I either go ultra cheap with the Coronas or I spend the money for decent quality. The middle ground really doesn't make any sense.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 08:54 PM
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Solution: Open up the servo casing and add enough foam to push the motor body against the backplate. Not too much, as the servo case won't close properly, but enough to create some pressure in there.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the heads up I got mine today. Pulled off the back covers on all 3. Cut some small pieces of 3 M double sided foam tape and put it on the inside of the covers just over the motor area. I may still use them since I'm just a novice pilot and don't do any inverted crazy stuff yet. Thanks again guys. Clear prop.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 05:43 PM
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Here's an older video showing a test of 3 different solar servos:
http://www.mycoolheli.com/reviews/ReviewSolarServo.html

Looks pretty good. I'm guessing that these can be very good servos provided you open them up and add some support to the motor and wires to prevent vibration-induced effects.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.M View Post
Here's an older video showing a test of 3 different solar servos:
http://www.mycoolheli.com/reviews/ReviewSolarServo.html

Looks pretty good. I'm guessing that these can be very good servos provided you open them up and add some support to the motor and wires to prevent vibration-induced effects.
imo they are too close in price to the Hitecs and Ino Labs to be worth it.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 09:56 PM
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What are you talking about? Hitec's are 3x the price!
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 10:02 PM
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Buut hitecs are 10x better
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 02:26 AM
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What are you talking about? Hitec's are 3x the price!
$26 for Hitec HS-65MG's: (yes they are analog but a good quality analog will still perform better than a low quality digital)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...g_0_14sec.html

$19 for Ino Labs HG-D202MG's: (you have to log in and add it to your cart to see the real price)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...16s_2_0kg.html


I'm really liking the Ino Labs servos now, I've been using the HG-D260's in my 450 Sport (they need the Tarot frame panels with 30x13mm holes to fit) and they're performing great. Wiring inside looks very good and able to handle the vibrations in a helicopter.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 09:54 AM
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Oops, wrong thread.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 01:56 PM
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Another option now is the rebadged Birdbird servos under the Turnigy label from HK. About 20 bucks each. Most are full metal gear, full ball raced and digital. They even have high voltage digital micro servos.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 03:20 PM
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IMHO, I'll either go with sub-$10 servos to save some cash, or go all out and get the high-end $40+ for the high-performance birds. I think the $20 range is kinda odd, you get neither performance, nor low price.

BTW, I don't think the HS-65MG's work better than the Solar D654. Particularly on FBL controllers, which can drive digital servos at 333Hz, any analog servo will fall short, because they cannot be driven past ~65Hz, and they do not maintain position as accurately as digital servos.

Now, the question of reliability is totally different, and HS65's may indeed be more reliable than the Solar, but definitely have less performance.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ridge_racer View Post
Another option now is the rebadged Birdbird servos under the Turnigy label from HK. About 20 bucks each. Most are full metal gear, full ball raced and digital. They even have high voltage digital micro servos.

I think I'd rather get the Ino Labs at that price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.M View Post
Now, the question of reliability is totally different, and HS65's may indeed be more reliable than the Solar, but definitely have less performance.
I really can't tell the difference between HS65's and HG-D202's But then I do sport and scale flying. But for someone like me who doesn't do outrageous 3D reliability with decent performance is good enough.
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