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Old Oct 29, 2012, 11:36 PM
You can't take the sky from me
scott page's Avatar
United States, MI, Hell
Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdem View Post
Thanks for the quick reply.

I've thought of using hot glue but it sets far to quick, I wouldn't be able to place both halves in the correct position within the short time frame and same goes for most CA I've found so far.
Double sided tape sounds like it inst that strong lol, I might be wrong though.

Although Welder Adhesive sounds promising.
Is it a Brand name? I'll look into it now.

Thanks again
-mdem

*edit*
Is this the glue you mentioned?

- http://www.amazon.com/Welder-Contact-Adhesive/dp/B003E6ZPWA/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt -


*edit 2*
Been looking around and the Welder adhesive looks similar to foam safe CA, in regards to curing times. I'd need something that takes anywhere between 10-15min + to get all the alinements in places and perfect.

That's the stuff. I got turned onto it by the guys building EPP Superfly flying wings. They even use it to make hinges -- I was incredibly dubious until I tried -- it's magic. I also use it on Tech-one thin skin EPP models and apply very thin fabric (like a veil) in areas taht need reiniforcing --- again -- like magic.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 11:41 PM
You can't take the sky from me
scott page's Avatar
United States, MI, Hell
Joined May 2009
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Originally Posted by xviper View Post
Unless you have an onboard altimeter, it's like the stories that fishermen tell after the fact. It was THIS big!
I've measured altitude with an altimeter on various planes. 2000 feet for a small plane like a Trojan makes it barely visible. It takes nearly 3500 feet for an X8 wing (7 foot wingspan) before it almost disappears. 2000 feet for my 11 foot wingspan AWS-17 looks like you could almost reach out and grab it. I've not measured the Bix 2 yet, but I'd say 2500 feet and it's probably invisible. Depends on the appearance of the sky.
You're right -- basically invisible - just a dot. I have FrSKY altimeter telemetry on board one day when I got in a boomer thermal. My spotter had to read the telemetry to me because if I took my eye off the plane for second I'd never have found it. I was at 2200 feet when I got into a cloud -- and it the spoilers.. lost sight of the plane for quite awhile..Everybody looking and my friend found it circling to the North when it was at 1200 feet -- and it's still not too big at that altitude. I was glad to have it back because I had more $$ in equipment onboard than the plane itself.

Never EVER going to do that again.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 01:52 AM
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Crashem Dave's Avatar
Geelong, Victoria, Australia
Joined Nov 2004
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Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
Before you do all that, get a Watt Meter. Otherwise, you are risking a fire (or worse).
AJ
Frackin' Hell! What happened there?
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 09:06 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Hull
Joined Sep 2012
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Originally Posted by CorporalB View Post
Great news Drone 5, I plan on eventually getting the ArduFlyer (APM2.5 clone) for my Birthday next month but I might put a KK2.0 board in the Bixler 2 in the mean time for stability and level flight.

Before you bash me for putting stabilisation on a very easy to fly and naturally stable airframe... remember that I'm building a dedicated FPV ship, not a run 'o the mill park flyer
Present status of your Bixler FPV looks well on the way.
M.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 09:14 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Chippenham
Joined Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by scott page View Post
You're right -- basically invisible - just a dot. I have FrSKY altimeter telemetry on board one day when I got in a boomer thermal. My spotter had to read the telemetry to me because if I took my eye off the plane for second I'd never have found it. I was at 2200 feet when I got into a cloud -- and it the spoilers.. lost sight of the plane for quite awhile..Everybody looking and my friend found it circling to the North when it was at 1200 feet -- and it's still not too big at that altitude. I was glad to have it back because I had more $$ in equipment onboard than the plane itself.

Never EVER going to do that again.
This is where a RTH system would come in handy, but they're not cheap... I used to have FY31AP (before someone stole it) and the RTH saved me a few times





Quote:
Originally Posted by Drone 5 View Post
Present status of your Bixler FPV looks well on the way.
M.
Thanks, will be installing the RmileC into my 9x and the B2 this evening, aiming for the maiden before the weekend
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 09:18 AM
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Australia, VIC, Carrum Downs
Joined Oct 2012
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Originally Posted by AussieHoppy View Post
is that an aussie national shop(eg bunnings), or just your local hardware ?
I think Bunnings have it as well, but i found a tool/metal shop that was closer, just used the 'Find distributer' on the Gorilla glue website to find a local store.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scott page View Post
That's the stuff. I got turned onto it by the guys building EPP Superfly flying wings. They even use it to make hinges -- I was incredibly dubious until I tried -- it's magic. I also use it on Tech-one thin skin EPP models and apply very thin fabric (like a veil) in areas taht need reiniforcing --- again -- like magic.
I bought Gorilla glue, and will be buying Welders glue, and also two-three others. Will test them all out on EPO foam (as that's what most planes I'll be buying right now will be), and see what works best for myself.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 11:01 AM
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United Kingdom, Watford
Joined Mar 2011
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have ordered 2cell 2200mah lipos to go with my Bixler2 2826-6 2200kv motor and 7x4 prop, anyone else have experience of this type of setup using 2 cell rather than 3...will probably run two batteries in parallel for extended flight time...any info would be appreciated............
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 11:15 AM
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Canada
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Originally Posted by craigblk View Post
have ordered 2cell 2200mah lipos to go with my Bixler2 2826-6 2200kv motor and 7x4 prop, anyone else have experience of this type of setup using 2 cell rather than 3...will probably run two batteries in parallel for extended flight time...any info would be appreciated............
You should UN-order those and get 3s batteries. That motor will likely try to suck out more than what the 2s can deliver. Probably puff them up fairly easily. Instead of running 2 batteries hooked together, why not just get the right battery in the size you want (ie, 3s, 4400mah)? It's not like you've just got them laying around anyway.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:28 PM
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United Kingdom, Watford
Joined Mar 2011
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Originally Posted by xviper View Post
You should UN-order those and get 3s batteries. That motor will likely try to suck out more than what the 2s can deliver. Probably puff them up fairly easily. Instead of running 2 batteries hooked together, why not just get the right battery in the size you want (ie, 3s, 4400mah)? It's not like you've just got them laying around anyway.
Thank you for the advice have managed to cancel the order from hobbyking via live chat...somewhat confused now as I thought the motor prop combo mentioned would draw too much current on a 3 cell, should I downsize the prop to a 6x4 as I believe the turnigy motor has a maximum draw of 34 amps.....
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by craigblk View Post
Thank you for the advice have managed to cancel the order from hobbyking via live chat...somewhat confused now as I thought the motor prop combo mentioned would draw too much current on a 3 cell, should I downsize the prop to a 6x4 as I believe the turnigy motor has a maximum draw of 34 amps.....
Stock prop is 7X6, so I don't think you need to go quite that small. Look at 7X4 or 6X5. I'm running 7X6X3 on an 1100kv motor. I'm going to try a 2200kv motor but I'll stick with the 7X6X3, only make sure I don't go full throttle for long stretches.
Just ensure your ESC can handle it. And do check the ESC, motor and wiring for excessive heat part way into the first flight. I burned my stock motor and wiring out on stock prop.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:47 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Chippenham
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Motor, prop, ESC and RmileC Rx installed. Decided to go with the 1450kv motor, 8x6e prop and 40a ESC.

The adjustable motor mount is in the middle position and there's about 8mm clearance between prop tip and fuse.

Will take pictures and update blog when I get back home
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:48 PM
You can't take the sky from me
scott page's Avatar
United States, MI, Hell
Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigblk View Post
Thank you for the advice have managed to cancel the order from hobbyking via live chat...somewhat confused now as I thought the motor prop combo mentioned would draw too much current on a 3 cell, should I downsize the prop to a 6x4 as I believe the turnigy motor has a maximum draw of 34 amps.....
Start with a 3 cell and if you don't have a watt meter -- get one. Before you fly any plane you should check the amps and watts it's pulling. Purists will tell you this is not exactly what it will pull when the props are unloaded and flying -- they are right -- but it will give you a worst case scenario. Additionally -- the temp and humidity of the air can make a surprising difference in the amp draw -- same as altitude does. Check the worst case scenario with a watts-up or similar meter on the ground with the prop "loaded" (not moving through the air).

As far as two cells vs. three cells goes. All you are changing there is the voltage. To get the same power (Watts) you'll have to pull more amps Amps x volts = watts. So dropping the voltage by 1/3 will require corresponding increase in amps to get same power level. I'd worry more about the ESC than the motor as in my experience -- over amping kills ESC's and drawing too much wattage kills motors ... but that's a gross generalization -- as between the battery, ESC and motor ... one of them will be the fuse -- the first to fail in high load situations. Question to ask yourself -- is which would you rather lose?
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 03:18 PM
RC Geeky
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United Kingdom, Watford
Joined Mar 2011
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Originally Posted by scott page View Post
Start with a 3 cell and if you don't have a watt meter -- get one. Before you fly any plane you should check the amps and watts it's pulling. Purists will tell you this is not exactly what it will pull when the props are unloaded and flying -- they are right -- but it will give you a worst case scenario. Additionally -- the temp and humidity of the air can make a surprising difference in the amp draw -- same as altitude does. Check the worst case scenario with a watts-up or similar meter on the ground with the prop "loaded" (not moving through the air).

As far as two cells vs. three cells goes. All you are changing there is the voltage. To get the same power (Watts) you'll have to pull more amps Amps x volts = watts. So dropping the voltage by 1/3 will require corresponding increase in amps to get same power level. I'd worry more about the ESC than the motor as in my experience -- over amping kills ESC's and drawing too much wattage kills motors ... but that's a gross generalization -- as between the battery, ESC and motor ... one of them will be the fuse -- the first to fail in high load situations. Question to ask yourself -- is which would you rather lose?
Thanks guys will order the three cell and use the watt meter as suggested and take it from there...pretty sure I have ordered a 7x4 and a 6.5x4 prop with my last order from Hobbyking at the weekend so will try those when they arrive.....will post results as soon as my orders arrive and have tested at the flying field....
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 04:24 PM
Mark
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United Kingdom, England, Moreton-in-Marsh
Joined Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigblk View Post
have ordered 2cell 2200mah lipos to go with my Bixler2 2826-6 2200kv motor and 7x4 prop, anyone else have experience of this type of setup using 2 cell rather than 3...will probably run two batteries in parallel for extended flight time...any info would be appreciated............
On my bench test the 2826-6 drew way over it's max power of 342w on a 2200 3 cell running the bixler stock 7x4 prop. A flat out 6x4 was reading 353w so you would need a 30A ESC, but should be ok if you didn't leave it on full throttle all the time. but I'd go for a 6x3 to be on the safe side.

This site is cool for paying about with the numbers http://adamone.rchomepage.com/calc_motor.htm I'm not sure about the acuracy but it seems a good indicator.

M
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 05:51 PM
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Canada
Joined Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by mlp666 View Post
bixler stock 7x4 prop
Stock prop turns out to be 7X5. I thought it was 7X6, so we're both wrong.
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