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Old Oct 16, 2012, 05:04 AM
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Crashem Dave's Avatar
Geelong, Victoria, Australia
Joined Nov 2004
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Originally Posted by 1987tc View Post
Flew our Bixler2 couple of times today. it was still kind of gusty.
One thing I have noticed. it is kind of twitchy under power. Not a lack OF power though. But then when I shut the motor down it glides wonderfully Stable but responsive. With a nice flat glide. Under power it still wants to push the nose down. Not so that you cannot control it though. It needs up elevator held in while under power. But not while gliding.

Any ideas or useful suggestions?
I learnt exactly that on the AXN Clouds Fly. I found that by applying power slowly rather than ramming the throttle forward, it minimised the trend you describe. Even adding power in small increments helped. Once it was moving forward quickly though, the trend reversed and it would start to climb.

Ditto for shutting the throttle off. A slow reduction (a linear movement) rather than quickly yanking the stick back, resulted in a more predictable response.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 11:56 AM
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1987tc's Avatar
United States, OK, Weleetka
Joined Dec 2000
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I do move the throttle slowly and smoothly. I try and fly all my airplanes that way.
We had planned this model as a step up for my GF to continue learning to fly from her Firebird Stratos.
But I am having second thoughts now.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 02:02 PM
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Great plane, love it!!! Few cons tho: main spar needs to be solid. Skid plates and fuselage spar not secured very well.

HobbyKing Bixler 2 Review and Flight (5 min 26 sec)
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 06:11 PM
Foam Snow
South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Aug 2011
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My second FPV flight, what fun!
Bixler 2 - Second FPV Flight (1 min 28 sec)
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 11:26 PM
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Crashem Dave's Avatar
Geelong, Victoria, Australia
Joined Nov 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987tc View Post
I do move the throttle slowly and smoothly. I try and fly all my airplanes that way.
We had planned this model as a step up for my GF to continue learning to fly from her Firebird Stratos.
But I am having second thoughts now.
It's typical of models with the motor positioned as per the Bixler. The upward thrust will force the nose down. I guess that you can either counter it with subtrim, or do as Ken Sp did and alter the Horizontal Stab incidence. But if you know that the model will do it, then the best and easiest way is to add some up elevator whenever you apply the throttle. Fly each model according to its traits.

If she is uncomfortable with it, then maybe look at one of the foamy EP gliders that has the motor mounted in the nose with a folder prop? The Hobbyking Walrus comes to mind

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...PO_1400mm.html

It seems those buying it are happy with it, though I would look at swapping out the ESC for a Turnigy Plush unit 1st.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 11:38 PM
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1987tc's Avatar
United States, OK, Weleetka
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I have a friend who has an easystar. Motor is in the same place as this one. It does not do it at all.
We did a side by side comparison today. One thing we did notice. The thrust angle on the Bixler 2 is a lot more sharply angled. I will say one thing. It glides very very well.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 03:18 AM
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Joined Sep 2012
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Hi Guys,

Just had the end come off the yellow wire from my motor that plugs into the ESC.

Looks like the wire broke a few mm from the connector inside the heat shrink.

Before I solder it back on (knowing it's going to be even shorter than before) - I recall reading on here somewhere that some people had issues with the motor wire being too thin. (Overheating and melting?)

I was wondering - should I take this opportunity to replace the wire. If I do - Is connecting it back towards the motor going to help - or do I really need to pull the actual motor apart and wire right inside? (Which if that's the case I'm not sure how I could go about doing that since the bixler is already glued up).

Help anyone? :-)

Ta
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 03:46 AM
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Lincoln, CA
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Originally Posted by adza View Post
Hi Guys,

Just had the end come off the yellow wire from my motor that plugs into the ESC.

Looks like the wire broke a few mm from the connector inside the heat shrink.

Before I solder it back on (knowing it's going to be even shorter than before) - I recall reading on here somewhere that some people had issues with the motor wire being too thin. (Overheating and melting?)

I was wondering - should I take this opportunity to replace the wire. If I do - Is connecting it back towards the motor going to help - or do I really need to pull the actual motor apart and wire right inside? (Which if that's the case I'm not sure how I could go about doing that since the bixler is already glued up).

Help anyone? :-)

Ta
I am not clear on which end is broken. But, if it is the motor end, you are pretty much out of luck. A new motor is your only answer. But, if you have a mm or two, you might try to solder it back in place and use it.
AJ
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 03:56 AM
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Sorry for not being clear.

The end that has come off is at the 3.5mm HXT connector. It's broken away. I just didn't know if I should take this opportunity to replace the majority of the wire considering what I've heard before - or whether replacing half of the wire doesn't really make much difference with the heat issue?
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 10:42 AM
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Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adza View Post
Sorry for not being clear.

The end that has come off is at the 3.5mm HXT connector. It's broken away. I just didn't know if I should take this opportunity to replace the majority of the wire considering what I've heard before - or whether replacing half of the wire doesn't really make much difference with the heat issue?
Are you sure it "broke"? Check along where those wires run all the way back to the motor. If there's any foam melting, it's possible it got so hot, the solder at the connector melted. Time to take out the motor, pull all the wiring out and replace all the wiring with heavier gauge, silicone covered wire. Check to make sure the motor is still in good shape.
If it did actually break, then just solder it back on and keep an eye on it. Replacing only part of the wire won't be the best solution. If there is an electrical over heating issue, that can still happen at the weakest point (thin, poorly insulated wire becomes a bottle neck).
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:19 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adza View Post
Sorry for not being clear.

The end that has come off is at the 3.5mm HXT connector. It's broken away. I just didn't know if I should take this opportunity to replace the majority of the wire considering what I've heard before - or whether replacing half of the wire doesn't really make much difference with the heat issue?
Ah. Got it. Just replace the connector. You just had a mechanical failure. Solder on a new one and cover it with 5mm shrink tubing and you are good to go.
AJ
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:38 PM
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Hey guys,
I have done a whole load of testing with different props & 2 different motors (an 1100KV & a 1400KV) both HK Turnigy.

Anyway I am going to put all my findings into a table an upload it here for everyone else to use. But before I do that I am just looking for a little advice.

I will be using my BIX2 for FPV and she weighs about 14.37 ounces (quite heavy). I have a small CNC parts motor mount and I can easily fit a 9 inch prop. So here are my test results for the 9" prop on the 1100KV Turnigy motor (please take these results with a pinch of salt as I have never done any testing like this before)

9x5x3 (3 blade prop)Prop

50% throttle: 465g thrust & 6.46 Amps
75% Throttle: 859g thrust & 14.70 Amps
100% Throttle: 1040g thrust & 19.02 Amps


9x4.7

50% throttle: 400g thrust & 6.40 Amps
75% Throttle: 733g thrust & 14.43 Amps
100% Throttle: 860g thrust & 18.66 Amps


9x5 Prop

50% throttle: 385g thrust & 5.61 Amps
75% Throttle: 675g thrust & 11.39 Amps
100% Throttle: 825 thrust & 15.01 Amps

The 9x4.7 prop was a lot stronger and sturdier than the 9x5 so this may explain why it was pulling more AMPS yet has a slightly smaller pitch? I do not know.

When I fly I want longer flight times and I am not too bothered about speed so will be flying about at 50% ~ 75% throttle most of the time so looking at the test results above would anyone else agree that for my particular setup a 9x5x3 3 blade prop would be most suited?
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 04:24 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damage2008 View Post
Hey guys,
1. I have done a whole load of testing with different props & 2 different motors (an 1100KV & a 1400KV) both HK Turnigy.

<snip>
2. When I fly I want longer flight times and I am not too bothered about speed so will be flying about at 50% ~ 75% throttle most of the time so looking at the test results above would anyone else agree that for my particular setup a 9x5x3 3 blade prop would be most suited?
1. Links for both motors please. TIA.
2. Yes.
AJ
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 05:10 PM
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Joined Dec 2010
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1100KV motor:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18969

1400KV motor:

I can't find the link to it but it has been mentioned a few times on this thread.

I also found this:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1136470

I followed all the steps and now know the weight, wing loading, stall speed, recommended top speed of my BIX2 and recommended thrust. And it also tells you what prop to use!

Before I found the above thread and running any tests I was using the 1400KV motor with a 7x5 prop and was pulling about 28 AMPS, this resulted in me draining a 3s 4000mAh lipo in under 10 minutes! I am now hoping after actually understanding motor KV & prop diameter & pitch I may get about 30 minutes from the same lipo!
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 05:13 PM
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Joined Sep 2012
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Thanks for your replies guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xviper View Post
Are you sure it "broke"? Check along where those wires run all the way back to the motor. If there's any foam melting, it's possible it got so hot, the solder at the connector melted. Time to take out the motor, pull all the wiring out and replace all the wiring with heavier gauge, silicone covered wire. Check to make sure the motor is still in good shape.
If it did actually break, then just solder it back on and keep an eye on it. Replacing only part of the wire won't be the best solution. If there is an electrical over heating issue, that can still happen at the weakest point (thin, poorly insulated wire becomes a bottle neck).
Yeah - I'm sure it broke. It broke about 3mm from the solder. Where it bends into the canopy. Looks like the wire that is in it is pretty poor quality, and easilly breaks if bent back and forward a number of times.

In regards to taking the motor out - are you saying that the motor and wire are mutually exclusive? (ie, does thee wire 'plug in' to the motor the other end, or is it attached / part of the motor?
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