SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Feb 08, 2013, 01:10 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,424 Posts
The BEST plane

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sculptor View Post
AJ, the sky surfer planes have made pilot of me. I'm flying a killer B-2 and whenever I have it in the air I feel large, and in charge. I love this plane is the first airplane that's turning into an extension of me.

I want another one. But I don't know that I want another B-2. It seems like the wings are too big and the fuselage is too short not that I find any problems in that it's a great glider but I'm feeling like the original design upgrade B1 .1 is really a better airplane all around.

As you know AJ I don't have enough time on any of this stuff to make a really reasonable judgment. My introduction to electric aircraft and my involvement in the sport has its first anniversary the 15th of this month that's how new I am to it all. But I read these threads and try these things and I am guided by the experience of you and others.

AJ I know you fly both can you tell me what the difference is regarding flight characteristics?

Thank you Sir for your never ending help.

DJ
I don't see a lot of "flight characteristics" between the B1, B1.1, B2 and the Sky Surfers 1, 2, 3, 4 (ignoring the major difference between a flap and not-flap plane). So, that leaves the IMO. I agree with you - IMO the Bix 1.1 (aka Sky Surfer v2) glides the best IMO even though they both have exactly the same wing loading (9.64 oz/ft). I simply do not know enough to advise anyone on which of any of the above is the "best" plane. Sorry, I hope this helps you or someone just a little bit.
AJ
ajbaker is offline Find More Posts by ajbaker
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Feb 08, 2013, 01:31 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,424 Posts
The Rod or the Tube??

Quote:
Originally Posted by TechJunkieRC View Post
I am jus curious that so many recommend reinforcing the tube with a rod. I would think that in effect makes the tube a rod. I am confused!
This is becoming a very often discussed topic and there are many perspectives. So, I am going to try to be brief. First, I read many times that a person uses a "rod" and then immediately gives the specs that describe a tube (i.e. wall thickness can only be a tube [given that they are all round]). So, I think some folks use the words "rod" and "tube" as synonyms.
Next, the basics of the designs - Tubes are more rigid, Rods are more flexible. Now, here is the kicker -> It depends on the stress applications as to which is "stronger". Enough said on that to avoid the techobabble which did not help me (but, it was interesting).
Now, about inserting the 4mm rod (solid) in a 6mm tube. No, it does not make the whole thing a rod - IF the rod is NOT glued solidly in the tube because any flex in the assembly will allow the rod to "slide/slip" inside the tube. If the rod is glued inside the tube, the stress factor is so dramatically altered that I cannot be sure exactly what the changes would be.
I am going to take a guess that you might really be asking how to make the spar even stronger?? The easiest answer is to drill out the existing spar hole and put in an 8mm CF tube for a spar. If you want that even stronger, add more tubes inside that one.
Finally, to answer the question -"Which is the best spar type for our Bix or Sky Surfer, or ?? - a rod (solid) or a tube"? Well, I don't know. I have done a lot of research on both and no matter how much I read, it always comes down to - "It all depends".
I have read several posts that adamant about each with supporting reasons. FWIW, I agree with all of them.
For my planes, I use the tube (or tube, in tube, in tube, etc...)
Sorry I could not be of much help.
AJ
ajbaker is offline Find More Posts by ajbaker
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 01:31 AM
Rookie
planex's Avatar
Australia, VIC
Joined Jun 2011
1,537 Posts
Just finished assembly on my bixler 2 kit
Went with a 2826 2200kv motor
APC 7x4 prop
Plush 40a
HXT900 for all control surfaces

Not a bad kit for the price
Only things I don't like are the stupid screws to hold the wing in place
I couldn't get the wings to line up properly enough to get the screws in
So frustrating!
Ended up bending one of the screws, don't know how
Then got out the glue and glued the wings in solid
Should have just done that from the start and ripped those big clear cylinder things out from inside
Would have had a heap of room inside the fuse then!

Anyone else have problems getting the wing screws in?

I also swapped the connectors on the push rods to nylon connectors
Standard ones look so brittle
Should have also swapped the control horns

Will maiden in the next few hours see how it goes
planex is online now Find More Posts by planex
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 01:51 AM
Registered User
Australia, VIC, Bendigo
Joined Jan 2012
2,333 Posts
underside

Thank you once again DJ for your kind words and appreciation..Your assumption is correct..Im a scaredy cat and will do some field trials given that I have wheels and gyro..Hopefully I will then get the courage to "take off" lol

Here is the underside showing the wheels...Even with them and the 2200 3s it seems to balance as per the book...that is..for me..along the front seam of the servo/carbon channel.
agedflier is offline Find More Posts by agedflier
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 02:00 AM
Registered User
Australia, VIC, Bendigo
Joined Jan 2012
2,333 Posts
wing screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by planex View Post
Just finished assembly on my bixler 2 kit
Went with a 2826 2200kv motor
APC 7x4 prop
Plush 40a
HXT900 for all control surfaces

Not a bad kit for the price
Only things I don't like are the stupid screws to hold the wing in place
I couldn't get the wings to line up properly enough to get the screws in
So frustrating!
Ended up bending one of the screws, don't know how
Then got out the glue and glued the wings in solid
Should have just done that from the start and ripped those big clear cylinder things out from inside
Would have had a heap of room inside the fuse then!

Anyone else have problems getting the wing screws in?

I also swapped the connectors on the push rods to nylon connectors
Standard ones look so brittle
Should have also swapped the control horns

Will maiden in the next few hours see how it goes
Planex...You should have done what I did...I used the screws used here(in Oz) for securing door knobs..you can knock off to the size you want..They also have the fake washers and are just slightly narrower than the "tube" and slide straight down.If you dont have any and want to try this option head down to "Bunnings" or Mitre10..Oh dont forget to drill and retap the plastic plates on the wings. There is still plenty of "meat" in the plastic.
agedflier is offline Find More Posts by agedflier
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 02:13 AM
Registered User
Canada
Joined Jul 2009
6,993 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by planex View Post
Anyone else have problems getting the wing screws in?
Ditch the screws. They're a poor method of holding the wings together. Besides, they don't need to be held together that firmly. I hot glued a long piece of velcro to the top middle on one wing, thread it through the wing hole in the fuse, slide the other wing on and latch the velcro to a mating piece of velcro hot glued to the top middle of that wing.
xviper is online now Find More Posts by xviper
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 02:23 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,424 Posts
Suggestion

Quote:
Originally Posted by planex View Post
Just finished assembly on my bixler 2 kit
Went with a 2826 2200kv motor
APC 7x4 prop
Plush 40a
HXT900 for all control surfaces
<SNIP>
Please use a 6x4E ( or even a 5x5e) prop with that motor. A 7x4 will draw way too many amps (unless you are using a 2S1P LiPo). With that motor a 6x4E will give you all the power you need and outstanding vertical ability.
AJ
ajbaker is offline Find More Posts by ajbaker
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 02:26 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,424 Posts
A picture is worth......

Quote:
Originally Posted by xviper View Post
Ditch the screws. They're a poor method of holding the wings together. Besides, they don't need to be held together that firmly. I hot glued a long piece of velcro to the top middle on one wing, thread it through the wing hole in the fuse, slide the other wing on and latch the velcro to a mating piece of velcro hot glued to the top middle of that wing.
+1. Agreed. I don't want to steal your thunder. So, would you consider posting pics of your plane so he will understand what you mean. All of old FAR*S, know what you mean.
AJ
ajbaker is offline Find More Posts by ajbaker
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 02:38 AM
Registered User
New Zealand, Canterbury, Rolleston
Joined Oct 2011
1,128 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
Next, the basics of the designs - Tubes are more rigid, Rods are more flexible. Now, here is the kicker -> It depends on the stress applications as to which is "stronger". AJ
Especially with the Bixler V1 with removable wings was the point stressing of the tube where the wings met, crushing the tube at that point. The V1.1 has a solid rod for part of the length of the tube so that should remove the point stress crushing effect.

Of 3 fliers here, 2 with broken spars and 1 without, the 2 broken were removable wing V1s and the unbroken was on a glued in wing setup.

I replaced the broken tubes with thick walled tubes (almost rods, glass?) and no more problems.

Well no more wing spar problems but that is another story. The V1 has just been replaced with a V1.1.
Mac50L is online now Find More Posts by Mac50L
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Motor cover and mount retention
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 09:06 AM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2012
32 Posts
Two weeks ago had a nasty first crash left wing was ripped in half and the right one had a broke aileron. Flaps servo was completely ripped out. Lost connection with plane and it flew into a power pole.


Last week got new wings and restored it, this time i am not using flaps, i dont find any real need for them , also did a small paintjob overhaul.

Dezader is offline Find More Posts by Dezader
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 09:50 AM
Gone Flying
TechJunkieRC's Avatar
United States, IN, Covington
Joined Dec 2012
806 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
This is becoming a very often discussed topic and there are many perspectives. So, I am going to try to be brief. First, I read many times that a person uses a "rod" and then immediately gives the specs that describe a tube (i.e. wall thickness can only be a tube [given that they are all round]). So, I think some folks use the words "rod" and "tube" as synonyms.
Next, the basics of the designs - Tubes are more rigid, Rods are more flexible. Now, here is the kicker -> It depends on the stress applications as to which is "stronger". Enough said on that to avoid the techobabble which did not help me (but, it was interesting).
Now, about inserting the 4mm rod (solid) in a 6mm tube. No, it does not make the whole thing a rod - IF the rod is NOT glued solidly in the tube because any flex in the assembly will allow the rod to "slide/slip" inside the tube. If the rod is glued inside the tube, the stress factor is so dramatically altered that I cannot be sure exactly what the changes would be.
I am going to take a guess that you might really be asking how to make the spar even stronger?? The easiest answer is to drill out the existing spar hole and put in an 8mm CF tube for a spar. If you want that even stronger, add more tubes inside that one.
Finally, to answer the question -"Which is the best spar type for our Bix or Sky Surfer, or ?? - a rod (solid) or a tube"? Well, I don't know. I have done a lot of research on both and no matter how much I read, it always comes down to - "It all depends".
I have read several posts that adamant about each with supporting reasons. FWIW, I agree with all of them.
For my planes, I use the tube (or tube, in tube, in tube, etc...)
Sorry I could not be of much help.
AJ
AJ: Thank you for taking the time to explain. I am new to this hobby so I am just flying a basic Bixler 2 with no extra weight or gear. My goal is to learn to fly and not have the wings fold up. My flying is fairly low speed, trying to covert sim experience to real life flying.

I will run the solid CF rod I purchased and at the same time purchase a couple CF tubes and just compare.

I really appreicate members like yourself willing to help the new guy out!
TechJunkieRC is online now Find More Posts by TechJunkieRC
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Beaver Skis
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 11:19 AM
Registered User
Canada
Joined Jul 2009
6,993 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
+1. Agreed. I don't want to steal your thunder. So, would you consider posting pics of your plane so he will understand what you mean. All of old FAR*S, know what you mean.
AJ
Here ya go. There is plenty of room for the velcro to feed through the wing hole in the fuse. We all know how tight the wings are to push into the wing holes. It also takes a bit of "pull" to yank them out at the end of the day's flying. Also, when the wings are loaded in flight, they bend slightly up (or down when flying upside down). This applies more pressure to keep them in. The small velcro strip is plenty to hold the wings in place. Obviously if you fly the thing into a tree or make it take a dirt nap, the velcro won't hold but I think you'll have other problems besides the wings pulling out.

(PS. I'm an old FAR*T, too. )
xviper is online now Find More Posts by xviper
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 03:32 PM
Total Newbie
United Kingdom, England, Loughborough
Joined Dec 2012
520 Posts
Guys..I know this is a very fast moving thread,Just wanted to get this little doubt sorted out
Was posted earlier and probably not noticed

Could someone please recommend a god UBEC to go with the Bixler running The Turnigy RC LED light set and 7 servos (HXT900) (for flaps,aileron,rudder,elevator and nose wheel)
If it helps,I would be using a Frsky system with a 3S LiPo
(preferred from HobbyKing itself)

What are ya'll using to power up your systems btw?
jkishan16 is offline Find More Posts by jkishan16
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 04:57 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,424 Posts
BEC's 4 U

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkishan16 View Post
Guys..I know this is a very fast moving thread,Just wanted to get this little doubt sorted out
Was posted earlier and probably not noticed

Could someone please recommend a god UBEC to go with the Bixler running The Turnigy RC LED light set and 7 servos (HXT900) (for flaps,aileron,rudder,elevator and nose wheel)
If it helps,I would be using a Frsky system with a 3S LiPo
(preferred from HobbyKing itself)

What are ya'll using to power up your systems btw?
There are a few "right" answers to your question. HERE is what I use. But, for your application, I suggest you use THIS one.They are both switching BEC's which is a good thing. I hope this helps.
AJ
ajbaker is offline Find More Posts by ajbaker
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 08, 2013, 05:23 PM
Registered User
Seamus O'Leprosy's Avatar
Ireland, County Meath, Meath
Joined Oct 2008
86 Posts
I would go for any of the 5amp becs on the HK website
Seamus O'Leprosy is offline Find More Posts by Seamus O'Leprosy
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Hobby King USA Warehouse wait time for bixler and 9x? elcid79 HobbyKing 13 Jun 09, 2014 09:13 AM
Discussion Hobby King Bixler motor? wehrwolfzug Power Systems 6 Mar 01, 2014 12:33 PM
Discussion Hobby King Buddy codes for Bixler FPV Build xxdixonxx Hot Online Deals 0 Jun 19, 2012 01:51 AM
Discussion Hobby king Bixler Buddy Code aaluu Foamies (Kits) 1 Feb 23, 2012 01:06 PM