Sweet!

I got a Harbor Freight flyer in the mail the other day and it had coupon good for a free 7 Function Digital Multimeter. But I had to pay the $6.99 flat rate shipping to get it.

So to make more use of the shipping cost I also ordered a 16 oz. jug of yellow powder coat paint. I would have to drive over 450 miles round trip to get to a HF store...

I'll follow up on how the HF powder seems to work and sharing some might not be out of the question too...

Jack

Before soaking the stator in epoxy remover for the last week or so I tested the coating with some hard pulled test winds. I recycled some 21,22,23 wire to see how well this stuff holds up to repeated winding. It did well the only place that gave up and shorted was were the bearing tube masking tape was pulled to late. The corner at the bottom of the tooth is were it's needed most.
As far as epoxy remover it attacked the coating but did not remove it., the stuff sorta did a rising process, like bread. Now it's kinda rubbery but doesn't want to let go. I found a lone can of MEK at an old hardware store so I'm gonna give it a soak in that and see what happens.

Here is a sort of powder coating at home 101 document, as a person that knows virtually nothing about it, I found it interesting.

http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/projects/powder.pdf

The HV portion of the powder coating process serves to get the particles of powder evenly distributed on the surface of the part if I understand that right. So it may be that if you can work out a mechanical method of getting a thin (0.003"/0.08mm) even coating of powder the baking part should be the next step.

The degreasing and out-gassing steps were interesting...

Jack

He mentions the use of a convection oven for $400.0. I bought mine for $30.00 bucks at Target.
Black and Decker makes several small toaster ovens with a fan. Keeping in mind the size of the project.
Off hand I can't think of what powder coat would do to an oven that would make it unsuitable for food use afterwards.

Getting better at the process. This is a new Exceed 2215 stator that took a bit of a beating during winding removal and a few over optimistic wire size test winds. Hobby Partz had 2215's on sale for $11.95 apiece few weeks ago, so I bought 5.
This will be the first re coated stator to go into service for testing.
vtdiy sock dispenser is the simplest method with the best results so far for even application .

Looking good!

"Sock it to me!" Anyone else remember Judy Carne? Or Goldie Hawn? Or Rowan & Martin's Laugh-In?

Jack

vedddddy intedestingk

Originally Posted by jackerbes

Looking good!

"Sock it to me!" Anyone else remember Judy Carne? Or Goldie Hawn? Or Rowan & Martin's Laugh-In?

Jack

Oh Yea,

How about Henry Gibson

Arte Johnson "very interesting but dumb" (using German accent)

Then there were Ruth Buzzi, and Richard Dawson

Say good night Dick.

JR

Besides tape, I was just thinking about masking for powder coating. Brush on mask would be kind of handy. So, I was thinking about the opposite of what I did with wax for an epoxy stator coating. In that case I wanted a heat removable mask. But for powder coating we'd want a heat resistant mask that required a low activity solvent for removal.

So it occurred to me that thickened shellac might be a good one -- not sure of its ultimate heat resistance -- it may withstand powder coat heat, but it is easily re-disolved with denatured alcohol, which probably wouldn't swell the powder coat if the exposure time is reasonable.

Anyway maybe it would work, might be worth a try.

It's usually water thin, but exposure to air for a short time will thicken it, as its solvent (denatured alcohol) evaporates.

EDIT: Probably best if it was pigmented so you could see where you'd applied it, and the thickness. In that case Zinsser B-I-N is a shellac based stain killer (white pigmented). That might work. However make sure you get the shellac based product -- there are many water wash-up acrylic based stain killers -- they earen't soluble in denatured alcohol after drying -- they undergo a chemical change rather than simply evaporating a solvent, as shellac does.

Did you know Steve Martin was a writer for Laugh-in?
In this case I used a loose fitting plastic plug to mask the cold stator, sprinkled the powder, removed the plug then baked. The powder on the stator in it's dry ant hill form is quite stable. In fact it requires tapping to get to fall off.
To get the powder thru the sock I found an accordion motion worked best, gently pulling and pushing on the sock. Otherwise the sock tends to clog up.

I think this worked out great. I wrapped this stator up with 22 cheapo wire and had a couple of "that's gonna be a short", moments as I was being a bit heavy handed with tension. To my surprise, short free first time. If you look closely, spots were I was impatient show in the wounded wire coating. I may add an extra bit of PC to all the stators I wind as an insurance policy. Not to mention the customized aspect of it. Or maybe a signature.

Originally Posted by zeroback

I think this worked out great.

Nice Job looks fantastic.

My first wind had two coils wound in the wrong direction!
So I will have to do it over. But first I must finish Ms. Norway...Been on it for the entire summer. Now it is time to finish.....LOL

I use automobile engine enamel to touch up stators and to glue loose windings. I spray some in the cap, let it dry some and thicken then brush it on the laminations or drip it into wires. Good for 400+ F and has some aluminum oxide that helps distribute heat. The aluminum oxide is non conductive and used in paste form on electronic heatsinks.
I meant to but didn't test it yet to completly coat the windings to improve heat distribution and again to hold loose windings.

You have to spray it into the cap or a glass bottle outside to keep the overspray out of your gizzards. I should just turn the can upside down, release the propellant, then poke a hole in the can to transfer it to a bottle.

Is the Alumoxide a default of paint labeled high temp engine enamal? Or is it brand specific?
I try to wind so as not to have to glue the windings, but when that happens I've used epoxy. I figure air movement thru the coils is preferable. But if the windings have to be glued something that conducts heat sounds like a good idea.