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Old Aug 20, 2012, 01:56 PM
ltc
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The kit does not include a pilot; they offer you a Williams brother part number to purchase. 1/8 scale pilot IIRC.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 01:58 PM
ltc
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Glad to hear the maiden went well.

I was able to epoxy the stabilizer and rudder this morning before I left for work.
Hoping to do servos and pushrods late tonight ... which usually means 1-2AM !
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 01:58 PM
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I asked the same thing about the pilot Bajora but, check out post #58 it has a link to the pilot.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 02:35 PM
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Not included unfortunately. Top Flite recommends a Williams Bros pilot, but I used the Hobbico Great Planes one:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...9015&search=Go

I had to cut most of him off to get him to fit though.

McD
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 02:59 PM
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Oops, apologies for missing that earlier post. I have been reading along since post #1, I swear! Thanks Mike.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 04:26 PM
ltc
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This is the pilot recommended in the manual

Williams Brothers 1/8 Pilot Bust Kit (WBRQ1090)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=WBRQ1090

You are responsible for fabricating a balsa support base to mount it to the canopy.

FWIW, I am going without a pilot figure for now.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 07:19 PM
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Yep. No pilot here.... Saves weight and money and time. I like the look however.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz View Post
Yep. No pilot here.... Saves weight and money and time. I like the look however.
Based on the data from post #72 (160W/lb), I don't think pilot weight is a factor!

I am more concerned about thermal performance of the motor...
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 08:56 PM
Time for me to Fly...
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Well if 3d flying is all you do then by all means, tack on the weight till you can't hover anymore and then back off. Personally, I like the handling of a lighter wing loading and there is no amount of thrust that can change that. In fact, keep the plane light and you won't have to work that stock motor to the point of making it hot even in 3D flying mode.

Now, I'm not trying to say a pilot figure weighs all that but every ounce saved adds up. Of course, this is an ARF so the opportunities to save weight during plane construction are limited. Saving weight is just a habit I got into a long time ago. I hope I didn't bore you with my little soapbox rant on the subject.

Cheers,
Mike
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 09:43 PM
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For those that have completed construction, did you notice any elevator pushrod binding?
I just inserted the pushrods onto the tubes. The rudder pushrod moves much more freely than the elevator.
Swapped pushrods (in case one was slightly bent), same result.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 10:10 PM
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My pushrods were a little tight in the tubes at first. I cleaned each pushrod with some alcohol and then gave them a very thin coat of CorrosionX before I put them back in the plane. I found that when I pulled the z-bend end away from the fuselage slightly, they would bind less. Luckily when I installed the control horns, the pushrods were moved out from the fuselage and they worked very freely.

Here is a picture of my electronics and battery after I moved the RX foreward to the ESC compartment (just like the directions said). Look how far back I had to move the 1800 mah battery to get the plane to balance at the recommended CG point of 2-5/16".The battery is basically centered right over the CG. That should mean that I can fly with a larger or smaller battery in the exact same postion and not effect the CG.

Wiz, don't worry. This Contender can fly just like the original 60-sized Contender. Fast when you want to fly fast and slow when you want to fly slow. Nose-high velvety smooth touchdowns are simple with this one.

McD
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 09:24 PM
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For whatever reason, I ended up installing the servos 180deg (servo arm toward the nose rather than toward the tail) compared to the pictures in the manual. It just seemed to work a little better IMHO, at least with the servo exerciser.

I also had to trim the plastic pushrod tubes (as pointed out earlier in this thread), as they were a bit too long.

Not much clearance between the "wheel collars" on the pushrod segments (very odd arrangement) and the plywood wing bolt hold down, neither is there much space between the pushrods and the nylon wing bolt. Some very slight bending of the pushrods seemed to work OK.

The manual seemed to mention the use of thread lock in the beginning, but seemed to not mention it after that, at least on the servo wheel collars.

Moving onto the motor/nose next. Still trying for a weekend maiden flight (weather looks perfect).
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsflyer View Post
My pushrods were a little tight in the tubes at first. I cleaned each pushrod with some alcohol and then gave them a very thin coat of CorrosionX before I put them back in the plane. I found that when I pulled the z-bend end away from the fuselage slightly, they would bind less. Luckily when I installed the control horns, the pushrods were moved out from the fuselage and they worked very freely.

Here is a picture of my electronics and battery after I moved the RX foreward to the ESC compartment (just like the directions said). Look how far back I had to move the 1800 mah battery to get the plane to balance at the recommended CG point of 2-5/16".The battery is basically centered right over the CG. That should mean that I can fly with a larger or smaller battery in the exact same postion and not effect the CG.

Wiz, don't worry. This Contender can fly just like the original 60-sized Contender. Fast when you want to fly fast and slow when you want to fly slow. Nose-high velvety smooth touchdowns are simple with this one.

McD
Just wondering, is there another product besides Corrosion X you can use such as WD-40. I searched it online and Grainger is the only store that listed it, and of course it's not in stock.
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 08:02 PM
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WD-40 should work fine. Just spray a little on a paper towell and wipe it on. I didn't use anything on my pushrods and they work fine.
I flew my Mini-Contender today for the first time. It has lots of excess power! Ripped right off of our grass runway and vertical is pretty much unlimited with the recommended setup.
Mine needed quite a bit of right aileron trim at first and when I landed I looked over the wing and could see that the left wing tip has a bit of up-sweep at the trailing edge. I will try to take that out with a little heat from my covering iron.
Other than that it flew really well and flys quite a lot like the original. I set my control throws just short of the high rates and that seemed about right for the way I fly. I did however forget to add any expo to the controls so it was a mite twitchy. I will add some before the next flights.
I used both 1800mah and 2200mah packs. I liked the lighter feel and better vertical with the 1800's.
Winds today were about 10-15mph and the plane handled it just fine. Very stable for landing and slows down well with the thick wing.

Steve
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetway View Post
Just wondering, is there another product besides Corrosion X you can use such as WD-40. I searched it online and Grainger is the only store that listed it, and of course it's not in stock.
TruValue hardware stores stock CorrosionX. There are a number of good lubricants that should work on the pushrods. I wouldn't use WD-40 though because it eventually turns sticky and will make the problem worse over time. WD-40 is a great penetrant but NOT a very good lubricant or protecterant.

McD
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