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Old Aug 17, 2012, 12:48 PM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
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I'm having problems with the red even over open structure areas. The wrinkles just won't shrink out. Heat gun and iron still didn't get it to shrink.

McD
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 01:03 PM
ltc
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United States, MA, Mendon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsflyer View Post
My #2 son is Air Force, so that's why I used them.

One quick question ---- How is your red MonoCote on your Contender. It was very hard to get the wrinkles out of the red on mine.

McD
Same here, although they're not bad enough to cause me any concern at this point.

I did have one "oops" so far. When applying a drop of thin CA to the threaded servo mounting holes, some CA dripped thru the hole and onto the backside of the white covering on the front wing. Forgot to wipe it off, it ended up 'blistering' the covering with a hardened area.
Again, not bad enough to cause me any concern....I am just trying to use as much free time as I can scrape together to get it ready for maiden.
It's been a very very long time since i last flew a Contender and I'm looking forward to this.

In the meantime, I did get the Dynamic Foamy XB-70 off the bench and maidened last night after work. Fun little lunchtime parkflyer, my first flat foamy.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 02:37 PM
Time for me to Fly...
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United States, MI, Fenton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsflyer View Post
I'm having problems with the red even over open structure areas. The wrinkles just won't shrink out. Heat gun and iron still didn't get it to shrink.

McD
Hummm. I don't have any covering areas that look that wrinkled. When I have stubborn wrinkles in a open area, I generally use the heat gun on it's highest temp setting. Meaning I close down the vent in the back to lower the air flow. I then work the wrinkles from one side to the other with the nose of the air gun held at an angle. The shrinkage will occur first at the close edge and I watch the covering carefully so I can see the shrinking section move as I move the heat. I also keep the gun moving so that it doesn't sit an melt a hole in the covering.

That said, I've also had good success with an iron without a sock on it in certain situations and even a trim sealing iron in others. It's kind of a try it and see thing. One thing is certain, That wood under the covering wasn't sanded too well. the imperfections and grain show through the covering.

The real problem my well be that the covering has already reached it's point of maximum shrinkage. When the covering was first put on, it should have been stretched better. Think of covering more as a heat stretch material than a heat shrink material and your covering will turn out better. I might be tempted to cut that piece out and patch a new one in. But then, I'm looking at it though the critical eye of the camera. It may not look as bad in person.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 07:42 PM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
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Here's and interesting tidbit. The official MonoCote site shows that the covering should be applied with an iron set at 275 degrees F. The Contender manual states that you should set your iron at 360 degrees F to smooth out the wrinkles.

I have my iron set at 360 degrees and they aren't coming out. Since this is a review model, I may just list this as a negative on the kit. I'm not going to recover the front of the plane. I guess the review pictures will tell the story.

McD
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 08:56 PM
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I have to agree this is one of the worst covering jobs I seen in years. They did not pull or stretch the covering.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 11:33 PM
ltc
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Small deviation from the instructions...
I rotated the aileron pushrods another 180 deg from what is shown in the picture.
This allowed to control horn and backing plate to line up more in the center of the support in the aileron (easy to see when you hold the wing up to the light), rather than to the outside edge.

I also had to turn the pushrod more than 20 turns into te clevis in order to get the holes in the control horn in line with the hinge line.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 11:34 PM
ltc
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The more I look at this EP ARF, I begin to see some of the challenges of converting a vintage Contender from glow to electric.
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 06:56 AM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltc View Post
Small deviation from the instructions...
I rotated the aileron pushrods another 180 deg from what is shown in the picture.
This allowed to control horn and backing plate to line up more in the center of the support in the aileron (easy to see when you hold the wing up to the light), rather than to the outside edge.

I also had to turn the pushrod more than 20 turns into te clevis in order to get the holes in the control horn in line with the hinge line.
Good points. I just finished my wing and I see your point on the rods and horn placements. I'll mention these improvements in the review.

McD
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 07:23 AM
ltc
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I also found that although my 2 elevator halves laid flat when the joiner wire was inserted, the 2 leading edges of the 2 halves did not align well with the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
The joiner wire we very slightly "bowed" at one of the 90 deg bends.
Once it was adjusted (very slight movement), both halves were inline and still laid flat.
(It seems as though they used the same wire as the landing gear to save production costs...not easy to bend)

I also had to "clean out" the slots for the landing gear in order to get the gear to sit all the way down and allow the straps to sit flat.
Given how soft the screws used for the landing gear are, enlarging the holes in the wooden wing mounts slightly helped prevent stripped Philips heads.
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 07:55 AM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
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Originally Posted by ltc View Post
I also had to "clean out" the slots for the landing gear in order to get the gear to sit all the way down and allow the straps to sit flat.
Given how soft the screws used for the landing gear are, enlarging the holes in the wooden wing mounts slightly helped prevent stripped Philips heads.
Great Minds!

I drilled out the landing gear block holes with a 5/64" bit and harded the holes with CA. That seemed to work well.

I found the elevator joiner wire would bind up when I slid the horizontal stab into the fuselage. Needed a little Dremel work to open up the back of the slot.

It's starting to look like a Contender!!!!

McD
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsflyer View Post
I'm having problems with the red even over open structure areas. The wrinkles just won't shrink out. Heat gun and iron still didn't get it to shrink.

McD
Sorry to hear about your covering problem KF. I am by no means an expert at covering but 360 seems awful high to me. I watched John Redman of Horizon do a video on it and he suggested around 285. http://www.horizonhobby.com/article/...underbolt-30cc. Tell me what u think
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsflyer View Post
Great Minds!

I drilled out the landing gear block holes with a 5/64" bit and harded the holes with CA. That seemed to work well.

I found the elevator joiner wire would bind up when I slid the horizontal stab into the fuselage. Needed a little Dremel work to open up the back of the slot.

It's starting to look like a Contender!!!!

McD
I like your pilot, who makes it?
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 07:35 PM
We shall serve the Lord
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United States, TX, Kingsland
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Originally Posted by chetway View Post
Sorry to hear about your covering problem KF. I am by no means an expert at covering but 360 seems awful high to me. I watched John Redman of Horizon do a video on it and he suggested around 285http://www.horizonhobby.com/article/2349-john-redman-builds-the-hangar-9-p-47d-thunderbolt-30cc. Tell me what u think
If memory serve me right, Hanger 9 products are covered with UltraCote and the Contender is covered with MonoCote. UltraCoat has very different shrinkage characteristics. UltraCoat shrinks at a much lower temperature and shrinks more than MonoCote.

My pilot is from Great Planes. Here's a link:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...9015&search=Go

Of course you have to cut most of him off to get the head to fit in the canopy.

McD
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 07:49 PM
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KF are you going with the Rimfire 10?
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 07:50 PM
Dog is my co-pilot
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United States, WA, Snohomish
Joined Sep 2003
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Hi guys,
I got one of these planes a couple of days ago and have it pretty well finished except for the motor, which is coming Monday. Everything has gone together OK so far. I don't really like how they join the pushrods together with collars, but I guess it will work. It would have been a lot easier to just make the pushrods a bit longer and use e-z connectors on the servo arms.
What color is the spinner on your planes? Mine is an ivory color and doesn't match the white covering at all. I'm going to try to spray paint it to match.
Other than those issues it's a nice looking little plane. The control surfaces are relatively huge compared to my old original Contender. Should have it in the air next week.

Steve
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