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Old Aug 18, 2012, 12:33 AM
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Do HK have them now in stock..I havnt seen them listed
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 07:23 AM
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Only the full metal trunion retract from HK. Backorder the last time I looked the other day.
PW-RC cost a fair bit more, but his have 3mm screw threads in the bushes - so they are much stronger, harder to strip, and you can use grub screws that then go right into it.
But HK $7 with 2mm, PW-RC with 3mm $12 !! A notable % difference for that benefit.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 03:10 PM
The Balsa Farmer
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Crash, how did the coke can tailpipe work out?
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 07:06 PM
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Rudder build

I have now done the rudders and happy so far with the outcome..The 3.7g servos are a good fit and are flush .Note that the fins have been "glassed" first. I think you need to do this first so that you retain the rigidity and also you have something to cut up to without cutting through the other side. I may have to use a servo reverser as these tiny units look to be sealed units. I have to get back to the flaps and would be interested to see how Peter tackles the problem.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 08:33 PM
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That is a nice solution for the rudders AF !!
I never even thought of smaller than 9g servos... so that is a much better idea!!
I guess I would re-wire them as a permanent pair... no connectors except the one at the RX.
If you want to save wiring you can even run just the one extra signal wire for the rudders and use the pos/neg in common with the elevator.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 11:50 PM
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pairing the servos

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That is a nice solution for the rudders AF !!
I never even thought of smaller than 9g servos... so that is a much better idea!!
I guess I would re-wire them as a permanent pair... no connectors except the one at the RX.
If you want to save wiring you can even run just the one extra signal wire for the rudders and use the pos/neg in common with the elevator.
Hi Peter..I got these micros on ebay there are quite a few..I made sure none were more than 8mm wide.. They sell in miltiples I bought 4 for around $12..free postage.HK have some but they only have micro connectors and for 1s batteries/power only.
My knowledge is very limited...How can you "pair" the servos to one. I thought in this setup they would swing in opposite directions? I drawing/diagram would help explain..ah la Pauline Hanson..lol
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 01:30 AM
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Well, you will need to 'reverse' one... by opening it and reversing the leads.
Hunt down 'servo reversing' in RCG, or Google. It is easy enough.
Then hard wire everything together (solder joints) so you don't need connectors etc.

But the 1S issue sounds like a problem. ??
I am trying to think how you will make that work.....
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 04:18 AM
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tail servos

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Well, you will need to 'reverse' one... by opening it and reversing the leads.
Hunt down 'servo reversing' in RCG, or Google. It is easy enough.
Then hard wire everything together (solder joints) so you don't need connectors etc.

But the 1S issue sounds like a problem. ??
I am trying to think how you will make that work.....
Peter..I was referring to the micro servos from HK..They are the ones that work on 1s..The Ebay ones are ok..and work thru the servo tester ok. I connected the servos to a 2in1 and found that I dont need to reverse one...being both on the inside of the booms...one arm swings forward and the other backward. hard to explain but easy to understand when you see it in operation so both rudders turn in same direction...Now..back to the flaps..thanks for your support.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 04:21 AM
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Peter..I was referring to the micro servos from HK..They are the ones that work on 1s..The Ebay ones are ok..and work thru the servo tester ok. I connected the servos to a 2in1 and found that I dont need to reverse one...being both on the inside of the booms...one arm swings forward and the other backward. hard to explain but easy to understand when you see it in operation so both rudders turn in same direction...Now..back to the flaps..thanks for your support.
I may have to do that with the flap servos if I dont lay them in the same direction..I have downloaded some servo reversing clips and will hopefully be able to carry out that chore..lol
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 04:37 AM
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I haven't decided on the Vampire, but I most often run ALL servos on their own individual channels. This allows reversing, but also allows perfect 'tuning' of the servo two endpoints, and synchronisaation of their motions - so you can get them dead perfect. You can't do that if they are run off a common channel.
But it also eats up channels fast! LOL

If I don't do that on Flaps then I mount the servos in the same direction - not opposing, thus no need to reverse one.
I would not bother with individual channels on twin rudders though, they are not overly critical to be perfectly synchronised.

Number of Channels:
Elevator - 1
Ailerons - 2
Flaps - 2 (possibly 1 if I want to save using one more channel.)
Rudders - 1
Throttle - 1
Thus 7 already....
and if retracts, then 2 for that = 9 (or 8)

I am really dis-liking not having rudders. I only have one plane without rudders - just because it is overly hard to fit them on that. The Vampire is very wishy-washy in the tail without them - more so than typical non-rudder aircraft. Though a bit of that is probably coming from the flimsy/bending booms too. The carbon fibre strengthening cannot remove much of the flex.

I began the Flaps Mod tonight.......
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 09:13 AM
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Hatch "anti slide guide rails'..... LOL
These were added to prevent the hatch from being able to move rearwards - which I had seen occur a few trimes after a landing. In stock form there is nothing to prevent the hatch "riding up" ther rear hatch slope. And the stock magnet is too small and weak... but even a larger one I upgraded it to was still not stopping that slide.

So the 'rails' form an interference fit on the battery area sidewalls, as well as butt up against the rear 'verticals' at the end of the battery area, and thus the canopy cannot slide rearwards at all ever.
It has to go vertically upwards to come off, which is of course totally fine.

Then there is a 'finger grab'... errr, antenna cover.... so you can open the hatch without ever damaging the foam of the hatch cover - which even in stock form happens because you have to grab something (foam) to get it off.
Same for all foamies.... you always need to add something to protect the foam (or canopy glue join) from duress that will eventually damage it.

...
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Flaps:

1) Cut 2mm down into the flaps outline. Use a knife to slit into the wing horizontally from the trailing edge. Removing the foam where the new "split flap" will go. Just take your time to do a nice job.

2) The elevator servo wire needs to be re-routed away from the flap area, and also around the new servo area. I will just insert a new piece of servo wire (soldered) and it will take a "L" path instead.

3) Make some paper templates for the flaps

4) Flaps are made from 2.5mm plywood. They need to be strong, because at 80deg Full Flaps they are going to be hammered by airflow!!

5) The wings get very thick, very quickly, in the inboard area of the flap region, so you can easily cut a servo hole for the metal gear servos. I think it is wise to use MG for such a demanding task as what these flaps in particular will work under.

6) Epoxy 'flat pin hinges' to the hidden side of the flaps and those will be slid into slits in the wing. So use a nice long, pointy, sharp knife to make the slits.

7) I used three hinges per flap. I almost made a full length hinge, but that would be more effort. Again, the high duress of the flaps means you want good hinging!

8) A wire 'bridge' joins the inboard and outboard flaps. The flap leading hinged edges are not a straight line. Originally I was going to make them one straight line, to make the bridging wire job easier, but I forgot to!! LOL
That was OK as it just meant a nicer, more accurate, flap shape which just needs 'creative calculation' of what kinks the wire bridge needs for it to operate properly. And it does.... (phew!)
So here (pic 52) is the test with a makeshift 'pushrod' to see that they both operate freely and in unison.

9) Flaps all fitted and propped up somewhere towards the angle of Full Flaps. (a bit short of that). Full Flaps will go to 80deg area!!! At that huge angle - almost a flat wall to airflow(!!) - they will be more air-brake than "flap" !! But that is what the real Vampire does too. And we are not interested in more lift, but pretty well only in air-braking!
But you can use a lower flap setting for take-offs if you want to.

....
I am not overly happy with the wire bridges so far. 2mm wire can still twist across the join, and by 3mm that is too thick to use. Tomorrow I will investigate some flat extruded alloy strip (which is thin but very solid and rigid), which I expect will be a much better solution for a number of reasons.

The boom cut-away for the 'bridge' will be mostly re-filled, leaving open only what is required for the flap/bridge travel, so it will have a carbon fibre piece inserted along the surface (recessed), and which runs all the way 30mm or so into the boom after the wing joint spot. That is because I don't like the look of that whole section from just ahead of the flap bridge cutout, to the rear wing edge boom join.

I hope to complete it all tomorrow night.....

...
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
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Then there is a 'finger grab'... errr, antenna cover.... so you can open the hatch without ever damaging the foam of the hatch cover - which even in stock form happens because you have to grab something (foam) to get it off.
Same for all foamies.... you always need to add something to protect the foam (or canopy glue join) from duress that will eventually damage it.

...
done that already, if you go back couple of pages, lol
Vampire floats well, but is easy to land, just need space for true scale performance,
got real instrument panel now so pilot does most the work lol

Oh yes to answer your question, bassfisher, I believe the coke can does it's job,
but as I said, I am no rocket scientist, I reckon it helps, lol
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 08:33 PM
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Looks like a Mig pilot.... (from HK)
I do look at mine and sometimes think the cockpit is just that bit too bland..... but so far I have not had enough enthusiasm to do anything about that. Maybe one day....
Oh... I did put in a color paper instrument panel!!!
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 08:26 AM
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hi Peter, Gday mate, u hv the link to the retracts with metal trunnion? pls advise. tks!
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