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Old Aug 06, 2012, 01:31 AM
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I am in the process too of converting my DH-100..So far I have changed the location of the wheel wells to the correct scale configuration with careful cutting of the wings and filling the existing holes with foam. Still trying to work out how to make large front door close without having to rely on another servo... All of the foam has been filled and sanded ready for the ultra fine glass fibre and other goodies to arrive from HK..Oh I have to say tho that the supplied retracts have already "died" looks like they are voltage sensitive.Connected Rx to old 3s 7.4v.

I have thought about adding 2 3.7v micro mini servos to the tail fins. Information make them out to be no thicker than 8mm so will be close fit..I will use old scrap foam first as a test.

Cockpit has been "enhanced too with 10mm foam, remade pilot seat with harness made from plastic band from my recent visit to hospital.


Im thinking about flaps too and would like to see PeterVRC's outcome.

Does anyone know anyone local(Vic) that does vinyl/decal roundels and numbers?
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 02:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Next was a bit of "cockpit improving".....
Adding about 10mm of foam under the pilot, cutting it to match him and epoxying it to him underneath. Then brush painting it in 'Brunswick Green' acrylic, which was a perfect match for his attire. Then dabs of epoxy to stick him into the cockpit.

I printed out a black and white instrument panel (seeing I don't have a colour printer) to help make the cockpit look at least a BIT nicer.....

I CA'ed the canopy on... which showed me for the 100th time why I HATE CA!!!
It works on some things... not many, in a truly useful way.
I should have used epoxy as usual.....

...
here is my mods to the canopy & pilot, in my DH 100 Vampire

fitted the canopy with one screw for & aft & nice & neat look with scale detailed pilot ex HK
note the popsicle stick for easy opening after fitting stronger magnetic catches on canopy for battery etc
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by phoenix racing View Post
Have you oiled the bearings at all?
No Scott, I haven't, just running as is out of the box.

what sort of oil, WD40 ?

& how do you get in to them, please?
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 03:17 AM
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hehe, not WD40.....
Just a light machine oil (even sewing machine). But you need to be able to get to the bearings!!
For an outrunner that means taking the motor out of the fan and even taking the bell off the motor - usually just held on by a circlip, or some by grub screw at the bell end. It is actually easy to do. This is to get to the end bearing that is on the stator mount inside the bell.
The outer 'front' bearing you can get to as long as you can see that - often even just taking the fan off the shaft.
Inrunners you can generally see both bearings, one at each end of the casing/can.

I don't think many people oil their bearings at all !!!
They generally come with at least a BIT on there... possibly a lack lustre amount. But enough for the motor to last quite a long time. But like any 'machine', and bearing surfaces, it should be maintained IF you want it to last as long as it COULD.
So you need to oil them every now and then.... depending how much you use it..... ummm, how long is a piece of string?? LOL. Check it now and then and you will gain info on how often to check again.
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 03:34 AM
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thrust tube mod ?

thought I'd try making & fitting a thrust tube,

Here is how I did it, I believe it will increase the *thrust velocity & looks great !

But then, I am (*not ) a Rocket Scientist

started out having a coke, when I noticed the similarity to the size, & it smooth tapered aerodynamic shape, hmm, so the thought process began,

take the Aluminium can, ( very light ) it fits snug into the jet exhaust, cut out the top of the can with kitchen can opener,
trim the can to about half length, paint & secure with two small self tappers, while testing, glue in later if you like the results,

Simple !
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
hehe, not WD40.....
Just a light machine oil (even sewing machine). But you need to be able to get to the bearings!!
For an outrunner that means taking the motor out of the fan and even taking the bell off the motor - usually just held on by a circlip, or some by grub screw at the bell end. It is actually easy to do. This is to get to the end bearing that is on the stator mount inside the bell.
The outer 'front' bearing you can get to as long as you can see that - often even just taking the fan off the shaft.
Inrunners you can generally see both bearings, one at each end of the casing/can.

I don't think many people oil their bearings at all !!!
They generally come with at least a BIT on there... possibly a lack lustre amount. But enough for the motor to last quite a long time. But like any 'machine', and bearing surfaces, it should be maintained IF you want it to last as long as it COULD.
So you need to oil them every now and then.... depending how much you use it..... ummm, how long is a piece of string?? LOL. Check it now and then and you will gain info on how often to check again.
Wow, surprised Scott suggested that then, if it is that hard to get to them ?

the reason I thought WD40 was because of the long thin nozzle it has ?

been using it on my motorcycle chain for years with great results
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 12:18 AM
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More HK vamp updates

Hello again guys....still waiting for supplies from HK ..can't blame them this time...Au customs/post must must be watching Olympics as my order of parts still has not arrived...Also...while i was waiting I fried my last retract..Are all Durafly/HK retracts like that? Seems wheels jam/lock then glow and they are dead..What are the reports on the HK $7 ones please?

While waiting I have taken the liberty of taking up Peter Vic's idea of flaps..Pix have been added and hope you like what I have done so far...As I'm new advice on servos would be appreciated..I will also place then as per Peter's idea as they will be hidden from view..

I have also "bogged" all the panel lines as I read somewhere a smooth frame flies better (less drag)
Oh..Does anyone know any local supplier of roundels and numbers (vinyl stick- ons)
Lets hope the supplies arrive this week...Comments and advice always appreciated.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 12:27 AM
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Coke can thrust tube

[QUOTE=crashmaniac;22387897]thought I'd try making & fitting a thrust tube,

Here is how I did it, I believe it will increase the *thrust velocity & looks great !

But then, I am (*not ) a Rocket Scientist

started out having a coke, when I noticed the similarity to the size, & it smooth tapered aerodynamic shape, hmm, so the thought process began,

take the Aluminium can, ( very light ) it fits snug into the jet exhaust, cut out the top of the can with kitchen can opener,
trim the can to about half length, paint & secure with two small self tappers, while testing, glue in later if you like the results,

Simple ! [/QUOTE

I was wondering if you had tried out the thrust tube yet..Also had an idea that of you cut slots in can you may be able to adjust thrust angle..Some of the "experts" may be able to help out here as to whether it's a viable idea.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 01:02 AM
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Intake splitters... interesting idea, as per real one.

Balsa for flaps might be a bit too soft and flexible. Seeing they go down at huge 'air braking' angles.
I will use 2.5mm ply.

Putting the landing gear the right way, I had never looked/noted it was wrong! So that was handy to see, as I will add retracts later on.

Coke can thrust tube... hehe... I have PET film from HK for making those.
I am pretty sure that the CS10 needs more exhaust diameter.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 04:13 AM
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Vampire flaps

Peter you are right, a basic test with servo and double side tape for arm showed that there was a lot of twisting between the flaps...I have put another layer of balsa on and beefed up connections between both flaps..I thought ply may be too heavy but will keep your idea in mind...A work in progress...no rush to fly...Maybe Peter can do the maiden..??
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 07:27 PM
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I did my GPS test(s), though I do really want more so I have a good sample.
For now I will say "100kph" top speed at level flight, at prob a 5kph tolerance range due to light wind, and who knows what is truly "level" etc.

Another 300ft landing process, LOL!!! I keep forgetting to test out the flaperons and spoilerons. Boy does it just glide and glide!!

So first I am going to cut out the top cheaters tonight and just leave them open for now. And test that. If there is a good flying period soon.
Though to truly work as intended they really need the hinged doors on them - but this is just the first test to see what more inlet flow will do in-flight. (I expect it will do little).

Then.... open up the exhaust, as much as I can get it out to.
I expect this to help a measurable amount.

Then if I get those tests done in time I will start the flaps on Friday.
Yes, with their huge angles and their area, they will need strong interconnection!
Initially I was only going to do one set - inboard - as their real aimed use is for air-braking. not more 'lift'. Thus ability to go down to 80deg and you would do them with full speed servos (not slow) so it is an instant on/off process and can 'skip' through the lower angles that would increase lift a lot (eg 40deg regions would give high lift gains).
But it would look, and slow, far better with both pairs - so I will do both sets.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 01:57 AM
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The eagle has landed....I like the new HK retracts..A lot stronger than the Durafly ones.Brass bearing and metal drive plate.Only issue I can see is the securing screw on side. It will be difficult to remove legs once installed..May have to make now holes on top Al-La durafly new hinges for ailerons and elevators..they may be too big for rudder....I have made new hinges for flaps as there was a bit of twisting using just the piano wire I will post pic's soon when compleded
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 02:14 AM
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Did you get those metal trunion retracts?
I got them from HK but also a set from PW-RC..... the PW-RC ones use 3mm screws to lock the legs in,whilst the HK use 2mm. So the PW-RC ones an use 3mm grub screws which go totally into the thread (inside the trunion), but the HK ones can only use 2mm bolts that then stick out.

BAH!!! HK $8. PW-RC $13....
The rest of the retract is the same.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 06:20 AM
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HK retracts

I got the $7+? ones They have plastic trunions with brass bearings with screw going through centre to hold leg on and it looks like metal slider that runs along worm wheel..Im a nosey bugger I have to see how things work Everything looks heaps better than the Durafly ones...They also take 3mm legs..the original durafly ones although I hope to make my own spring loaded ones.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 09:33 AM
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The non-metal ones are still 'pretty good', but what you will find:
1) The trunion can wear the 'drive bar slot' and then the drive bar can jump out of it. This happens more on 'fore-aft' mounted retracts - like a nose wheel. Metal trunions don't wear and do that.
2) The brass bushes will pull OUT of the trunion side(s) if you do the leg holding screw up too tight. Metal trunions are all metal, so nothing can pull out.
3) And of course overall the metal ones are stonger, less to wear and less freeplay.

I am coverting all my non-metal to metal (like about 20 in total). PW-RC sells just the trunions and you can change them yourself too. And for quite a while now I have bought the metal ones, or just the metal trunions, from PW-RC.... until HK recently started getting some too.
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