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Old Oct 18, 2012, 06:57 PM
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Australia, NSW, Bathurst
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Thanks Peter.. I still don't understand the front retract wire connection? I have the retracts on the main wings plugged into the gear channel by a y harness but where does the front retract plug into?..
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 07:00 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
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If you get a "Y" connector you put the main gear into one input, the front into the other. That way you have one common plug to go to the gear channel. It just joins them all together.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 07:02 PM
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Ok think I understand now, thanks heaps. Also I have a plush 60A ecs here could I use that to replace the stock ESC, Ive read they are not very reliable.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 07:27 PM
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United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Jul 2010
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The stock ESC looks pretty stout with heatsink and all and then theres the external BEC too. Whats the history on the stock ESC does it hold up ok or ? Looks bigger than a 45 amp but specs says its a 45 amp.

Hmmm. Maybe I do need to use my other one I have on hand I think its a 65 amp.

Specs:
Wingspan: 1100mm
Length: 888mm
Flying Weight: 1050g
EDF: 70mm with 2700kv 2836 Brushless Outrunner Motor
ESC: 45A w/UBEC
Servo: 9g x 4
Retracts: Servoless Electronic Type
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Yeah, that would be fine to use the Plush and they are a good ESC.... so surely safer to use that.
If you use a separate BEC, make sure you pull out that RED middle pin of the ESC, or cut the wire.

There have been a few posts of stock ESC failures. And stock retracts too.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 07:48 PM
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I have a pair of HD-312 retracts in case the mains fail, just trying to find a good steerable front retract for when that one lets go.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 09:37 AM
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I modified my inboard flaps to be closer to scale design.
I guess it must have changed the total flaps drag, seeing they are a bit smaller now, but I could not tell any difference landing it.

I am tossing up on adding the rudders this week.....

...
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 09:46 AM
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I test fit and balanced some larger batteries.....
They upped the AUW above the most common 5S 3000mAH 20C's that I use - just a bit.
5S 3700mAH 25C +60g
5S 4000mAH 20C +120g
What is with that weight per those batteries!!?? The 3700 25C is LIGHTER by a fair amount, yet higher C (just a bit)... so it is a far more useful total package! And both cost almost the exact same price! ($35)
eg That is 60g for 700mAH more than the 3000. But another 60g just to get another 300mAH more AND at less C.

I will try them tomorrow (if the weather is ok). I don't mind even a bit more weight, but I do need to open the cheaters a bit to grab another 100g thrust if I can. It power level is marginal now.
It is actually verging on needing a better motor - the 'new' CyclonePower inrunner looks good.... I550-2200kv. Less KV, but a bigger stronger motor, so it would probably drive the fan a bit harder anyway. Though I don't really want to buy one "unknown" for $48 and find it is actually just under-utilised in the Vampire and gives no extra power anyway! So I will leave that for now - though I figured I could use it in another 70mm CS10 setup aircraft on 6S if it was no value in the Vampire.

...
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 10:46 AM
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With operational rudders, you may be able to sideslip it in. Just funnin.

Gord.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 05:56 PM
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I only want rudders as I hate seeing side-slip through turns - unless times you want sideslip on purpose, just for more dramatic looks in particular cases. I guess they might be useful for landings also - using yaw instead of bank to correct alignments.

The servo mounting is not a problem, but it is annoying to have to run the wiring!! I can do that just with one wire, and steal the gnd/pwr from the elevator servo, to help reduce the slot size needed otherwise - maybe one strand would fit into the existing slot just enough anyway. If so, then I will do it.

Balance-wise, all of my batteries are rearwards of the front nose end anyway, so there is over 20mm of distance they can go further forwards to offset the two rudder servos anyway....

Hmmm.... I have almost convinced myself to do it now!!
If using just the single wire fits easy then I will do it....

Because my Vampire is quite heavy = large mass and inertias, that means it is actually well suited to side-slipping a lot easier than a stock lighter Vampire. eg on cross wind landing etc. They look cool... any moves where you see an aircraft's mass/inertia causing a non-linear flight path looks nice. I think because it shows you it IS something HEAVY and amplifies how amazing they are to even have somethign that heavy FLY!
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 06:54 PM
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What's a good glue to use when putting the edf back in place? I liked the fact that a few drops of acetone got it out pretty easy.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:03 PM
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Some people use hot glue.... and it seems some PNF's come having used that.
I have never tried it.

Silicone sealant is another good one, but slow to dry.

Thin double sided tape....
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 01:33 AM
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Oh you have too many project on the go Peter..It is an easy job but as you say..the wiring is the issue as yours is already built..Those interested can check back on what I did.. 2 tiny 3.7g servos are all thats needed The rudders being so small should not put too much stress on them..Im still in the progress of finishing mine(slowly) and dont mind Peter cppying my "scale" flaps..I had some painting issues and put it aside to start work on my Guan Li A-10 Thunderbolt.

For BIGFELLA65...The landing gear servo wires have 4 connectors 3 are for attaching to the landing gear the 4th attaches to the Rx No5
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 03:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Thin double sided tape....
Yupp. I use this. Perfect solution. Easy to get out and has more than enough holding power.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 07:53 AM
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Hey, I didn't copy your scale flaps! You copied DeHavilland.... LOL
Well, unless my less than perfect copy is a match to your same imperfect copy. hehe
I used a few parts/factors of the original to scale them from..... umm, I call it "stand off scale".
Or maybe even "If you have never seen one before scale". (which allows a fair range of poetic licence).

For the inboard flaps:
1) I rounded the inner edge of the flap panel
2) I made the shape of the flap to be near horizontal along its lower edge when extended
3) I left a wing trailing edge border of 'no flap'
4) I made them go up and down (that was easy!)
5) They go to the same angle as the real ones when retracted (!!)...... and a somewhat similar angle when extended.
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