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Old Sep 26, 2012, 05:42 PM
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This is what I use.I think it is meant to be used to smooth/fill balsa.I tried it and it stuck well and every easy to sand..It is water based so if it dries out too quickly you just add water..I got it from Hobbyman in Dandenong...Just ask for Caroline..lol. I will rescribe the lines with fineline texta or maybe artists carbon pencil then another couple of coats of WBPU..
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 05:47 PM
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Did you sand into the lines or anything? Or it just sticks well enough into the surface as it comes stock?
Sounds like something useful to get.....
Though it would be nice if some common hardware stuff worked great... thus cheaper and easier to get.
I keep hearing 'spackle', which I guess is spackfiller (not that I even know what that really is!).... with all the modern filelrs these days, Bunnings should have something great too!
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 11:46 PM
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My two kits just posted out from the Sydney warehouse. The CS10 fan I ordered from a couple of weeks ago has arrived. Your build log is very very useful as it has many of the mods I was thinking of. Thx for your experience with it.
I'd like to add cheater holes on top of the model too but I'm not so worried about scale look as you guys. Just looking at what your trying.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 12:21 AM
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The main reason to use the top cheater idea (if at all) is so it is not all downwards suction. Though I am not recognising the stock cheater as an issue at all..... maybe if I video'd it and studied it in more detail I would see something, but if it needed that to be done it musn't matter, lol.

Airflow restriction is almost (or it IS?) a usable tool to tune a power system. Limited airflow means less drive and thus less power used..... and pretty well no power wasted (eg none due to the load of 'fighting' a restriction). So you can virtually lower power output, and draw, via that.
And if you do need a bit more power (and the fan/motor etc was capable of more, but is airflow restricted) you can just open up some more airflow (cheater).

Running lower power can mean you can throw in a 20C battery instead of needing a 30C to cope. (of course having less output power/thrust), and otherwise you would need to find a lower KV motor to achieve that same result - which is more costly and harder than the airflow limit way. And that motor would need to be changed UP (higher KV) to get more power again.
But anyway.... airflow (inlet or exhaust) can have its use in power control. (power limiting)

It is not quite a dead accurate measurement, but you can pretty well use WATTS alone as a base to work out what output/flight is going to be in a given aircraft. So one base value I have in the Vampire is - except I already forget the specific number!! - is that approx 800W-850W gives very good flight ability, realistic speed, for a 1500g AUW. And the airflow that 800W or so 'needs' can almost be totally provided by the stock air paths.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:15 AM
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Thanks for your input Griphin...I think I read somewhere that some vampires that operated out of hot climates had two extra intakes either side of canopy..on top at rear of canopy..Like Mickey Mouse ears..lol.That would be an easy mod using some plastic spoons cut to shape and epoxied in and till look scale.
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Last edited by agedflier; Sep 27, 2012 at 01:21 AM. Reason: missed some details
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:17 AM
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I've ordered the L2855-2300kv for starters and use 2800mAh 4S 30C batts. No retracts. I just got the thrust tube template and have some stuff to make that from.
Before starting any mods as you say I'll test stock. Makes a great noise with the air flow as is but I wonder if enough for the CS10. Have to start looking for some carbon fiber rods too.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:19 AM
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I just gave it a "rough" sanding..to give it a little key..glassing on top will "set" it for sure.. The "spackle" I think is similar to casting plaster used in making those toy moulds. It is ultra fine grain..
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 09:01 AM
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I got my ARF kits today and opened one after dinner then spent time just becoming familiar with the set-up. Few things struck me.
* No filler piece of foam for the nose gear area. Just not included, not there. I'll open the other kit tomorrow to see if one is in that.
* Base cheater holes all open.
* No hole from the nose gear area to under the batt tray in the fuz. I guess I'll cut one to get air flow to the esc.

I'm installing the CS10 and it just seems better quality. I see Peter cut the fuzz towards the rear of model to mount the fan housing. I was playing with the position of the fan and would it not make more sense to install it forward instead as then the ply plates would be centered with the fan housing securing positions and would be flush with the rear of the opening of the access hatch?
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 06:51 PM
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I'll have to look again, but I think rearwards to keep t he front 'lip' all clean.
Also as balance all just works out to have good leeways if it is rearwards. But it is not touch and go for balance, so that is not crucial.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 07:40 PM
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Thx. Also I'll have to measure it but I think it might be only only 3-4mm longer than stock still well away from the front lip. The fan housing depression is only 1mm and my fan depresses in position easily. Still I'll trim it that fraction for neatness and guaranteed position.
I'll mark it on the fuz with a pen and try to get a good photo like yours.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 05:34 AM
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Vampire ARF

Griphin..I think you only get the "plugs" with the basic kit..thats the one without the electrics. I dont think that they are sold separately like the wings tails etc..Plugs are easy to make from scrap foam packing that comes with lots of electrical goods..Have a look at my build and you will see I have plugged the holes where the original retracts used to go..Durafly did them that way for convenience.I preferred the scale look and turned them around.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Griphin View Post
I got my ARF kits today and opened one after dinner then spent time just becoming familiar with the set-up. Few things struck me.
* No filler piece of foam for the nose gear area. Just not included, not there. I'll open the other kit tomorrow to see if one is in that.
* Base cheater holes all open.
* No hole from the nose gear area to under the batt tray in the fuz. I guess I'll cut one to get air flow to the esc.

I'm installing the CS10 and it just seems better quality. I see Peter cut the fuzz towards the rear of model to mount the fan housing. I was playing with the position of the fan and would it not make more sense to install it forward instead as then the ply plates would be centered with the fan housing securing positions and would be flush with the rear of the opening of the access hatch?
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 05:54 AM
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I got the basic kit (Almost Ready to Fly) without electrics and I got the plugs for the wing retracts. I thought there was one for the nose gear hole too.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 08:27 AM
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I marked and measured and it is only 4mm longer on my kit to adjust for the CS10 housing. I marked on the top half of the fuz at it's easy to see the position. Right at were the fuz side walls change thinkness to where you install the wing spar. Still plenty of foam for a neat lip.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 05:22 PM
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Guys do the ubec wires plug into.. the throttle channel? Where does the other wires from the esc plug into? and where does the front retract wires plug into as the mains are already plugged into the gear channel?...thanks...
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 05:43 PM
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1) Use "Y" connectors to get all the gear leads run into the one gear channel.

2) UBEC can plug into any channel... it just feeds the Pos and Neg connection of the channel - which is linked to the RX and all channels/servos.

3) ESC, pull out the middle RED wire/pin, or cut it. All it needs is the black (neg) and the white/orange signal wire.
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