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Old Sep 19, 2012, 11:41 PM
RvE
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Canada, ON, Toronto
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To try to reduce the future risk of a bent prop shaft, I added extra 3 mm prop nuts to make the shaft "thicker" to limit its "sideways travel" on impact during noseovers, etc. The nuts/shaft will be limited by the plastic cowl, in the event of modest bending forces. Just an idea...we'll see how it goes. The prop goes on the last most nut, and is held in place with the spinner nut.

RvE
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 01:01 AM
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matrixFLYER's Avatar
Italy
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Thanks for the photo.look like a little piece of plastic it's broken, even a little piece of metal.
I will try to repair it.
I think it could break during take off and not during the crash!
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Fixed with a little bit of hot glue.
Thanks again for the photo! :-)
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 05:03 AM
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I like this plane.
Can anyone post some videos of it flying ?
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flylowfast View Post
I like this plane.
Can anyone post some videos of it flying ?
I have to be honest. It's a beautiful scale plane but it needs some work around to flight good.

With shipping and 3 LiPo it cost me like an eflite apprentice 15e with 1 LiPo and should be really PNP.

If I could come back i would have bought the apprentice from my LHS.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 05:41 AM
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On the prop shaft thingo - I tried bolstering mine as you've done with about 8 nuts along the shaft,shaft sheared off nonetheless on a belly landing whilst deadstick..... poo

Go for a prop adapter
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by GTrain View Post
On the prop shaft thingo - I tried bolstering mine as you've done with about 8 nuts along the shaft,shaft sheared off nonetheless on a belly landing whilst deadstick..... poo

Go for a prop adapter

Yeah, the nuts are not going to help as there will always be a thin area near the motor--right where the highest moment/bending forces will be....

What is a prop adapter?
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by arik434 View Post
Yeah, the nuts are not going to help as there will always be a thin area near the motor--right where the highest moment/bending forces will be....

What is a prop adapter?
if he mean a prop saver i cutted my shaft with a prop saver on it during the crash!
The only option could be changing the motor with one with a bigger diameter shaft!
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by matrixFLYER View Post
if he mean a prop saver i cutted my shaft with a prop saver on it during the crash!
The only option could be changing the motor with one with a bigger diameter shaft!
I've got a mill, lathe, and a 5 ton press...I will get the shaft out one way or another! I think an easy option would be to use a collet and but it up against the bell housing on the motor...unforunately, my hobby shop didnt have a collet type prop adapter that would fit this shaft. The 3mm one wouldnt tighen up enough to secure on the shaft.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 07:18 AM
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Australia, VIC, Heidelberg
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Hi Guys,

Great to bump into this thread as it seems that this one has faded...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1420548

I'm looking at replacing my motor and possibly under carriage as well after a light pole had the temerity to get in the way. (learner pilot on the sticks).

I'd like to see some photos of the NTM motor upgrade if possible. I think the oversize tyres will be a help as well.

I've taken my rear wheel off and just use the flat metal rod as a skid. Can't offer any experience on what impact this will have on landings yet - they have all been fairly rough.

Replaced broken aileron control rod with shortened one of these.
http://www.modelflight.com.au/produc...D-3527-64.html

Mike
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 10:20 AM
RvE
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Canada, ON, Toronto
Joined May 2012
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DAER_MJ
Thanks for the link to the Review in the Scale Airplane section....I never noticed it before you posted it.

The Hobby King DST 1200KV appears to be a direct replacement for the stock FMS motor. It is very inexpensive too.

As you noted, it would be handy to know of a larger shaft, motor replacement that will work with the existing ESC and motor mount, OR if anyone has a found a simple way to remove and replace the threaded propellor shaft from the motor.

Regards RvE
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 11:18 AM
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Ok, the shaft in the stock motor is definitely not designed to be replaced. If you take the 2 set screws out, then take the e-clip off the rear of the shaft, you can very carefully press/tap the shaft out. It is extremely hard to do without ruining the bearings. I think it is either press fit or has an interference fit with some thermal expansion during assembly.

I have a super tiger motor that I took off of my Nexstar EP Mini that will almost fit right on. Would just need to make a little adaptor for the motor mount. This has a 3mm shaft and would solve my problems. I'll try to post some pics when I finally get around to it, but I'm not planning on bending another shaft anytime soon!



Quote:
Originally Posted by RvE View Post
DAER_MJ
Thanks for the link to the Review in the Scale Airplane section....I never noticed it before you posted it.

The Hobby King DST 1200KV appears to be a direct replacement for the stock FMS motor. It is very inexpensive too.

As you noted, it would be handy to know of a larger shaft, motor replacement that will work with the existing ESC and motor mount, OR if anyone has a found a simple way to remove and replace the threaded propellor shaft from the motor.

Regards RvE
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 02:01 AM
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I fully expect to bend plenty more motor shafts..... hello HK.

MJ
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 06:08 AM
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just received the dst-1200kv from HobbyKing. Here some photos for comparison
look like a bit bigger and the shaft a little little bit wider but could only be my suggestion...
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 10:07 AM
RvE
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Canada, ON, Toronto
Joined May 2012
134 Posts
Shortened shaft to reduce bending and breaking

I have about 12 flights on this plane now, with no major problems, and my flying skills are gradually improving.

In order to try to reduce the breaking and bending of the motor shaft, I did shorten the shaft by cutting about 1/8" off the end of the shaft with a dremel, thereby bringing the prop closer to the cowling. You need to cut the shaft to do this since the tapered prop nut limits how far down the shaft the prop sits. I am using several nuts to "thicken" the shaft in the cowl opening so that the shaft has limited sideways or up/down room to move (the nuts hit the edge of the cowl shaft opening) during nose overs or rough landings. Here are some pics of what I have done.

The combination of shortening the shaft to bring the prop closer to the cowl, and the nuts within the cowl opening to reduce sideways movement, seems to be working for me, since I have had several very rough landings (due to bad flying) and the motor shaft remains undamaged. So far so good!

As noted by others, the plane is very over powered and it really needs to be flown around 1/2 throttle for best control. At higher throttle settings, she just climbs skywards! I did add two 1/4 oz lead weights to the cowl to reduce some of the climbing when on the throttle. I do like the plane's handling with this extra nose weight.

The fall weather is not great for flying in my area, but I still hope to get some more flights in before the end of the season.

Note - if you look closely in the first pic, you can see how I have pulled the ESC fully forward and coiled the ESC wires within the motor cowl area. This allows larger batteries to be fit into the battery compartment.

Cheers RvE
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