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Old Aug 12, 2012, 09:49 AM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
Joined Nov 2006
1,160 Posts
I should have mentioned, first try the battery on the bottom in the same forward/aft location it was on the top. Make sure it's all trimmed well and check the coupling. If it pulls to the canopy, it's noseheavy; if it pushes to the gear, it's tailheavy. Just make sure you fully trim it out again after moving the battery, or you won't see any change in the coupling at all.

Good luck!

RJ
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 10:00 AM
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motorhead's Avatar
Kansas, USA
Joined Sep 1999
3,888 Posts
Here is a link to the instructions.
http://www.fancyfoam.com/instruction...P%203D%201.pdf
Mike
Fancyfoam

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevelmaa View Post
Maidened done and successful. Painted mine yellow with black trim, sorry no px's at this time, so she came out a little heavy, right around 10 oz's. Also added 1 extra carbon stiffener to the tail plus made them all a little longer. At this weight I put a Hyperion 2205-38, 31 grams, on the nose to compensate for the weight. Batteries are Gensace 3s 450's which I cg'ed about a 1/2 inch in front of the aileron servo bay. Used a HS 55 with extra long servo arms for the ailerons, 5 gram servos for the tail section with extra long carbon arms for the elevator, for extra throw. Using a 12 amp esc. I mistakenly threw a 9x4 prop on this morning and did'nt realize it until I was done flying. Flew 4 packs pretty much back to back and nothing blew so I might just keep it on there. I usually fly early mornings to beat the wind so temps were around 60-65 degrees. Really like the way it flies. KE pulls just a little towards the nose, easily flown out, hovers are easy, once again it seems a little top heavy, might try putting the battery under the fuselage instead of on top. I can even get a decent KE spin out of it. One thing I would like to see is a detailed manual of the airfoiled design. The instructions on the site show a flat foamie instruction design. One thing I may have to do is cut away the nose section of the fuselage and center it to the airfoiled wing. Right now it is about 1-2 mm's towards the bottom of the wing which gives the front section of the fuselage/nose section a very slight concave appearance, which may or may not affect anything but if you look closely its there. Flight times are kind of short for now, around 4-5 minutes, haven't looked at the amount of battery usage I used yet. I usually fly low and slow so batts are barely warm when I land so I'm not really concerned. I'll come back and put that in. Hope this helps but am pleased.
Steve
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Renton, Wa.
Joined Feb 2006
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Thanks Mike. Those are the ones I used initially. I've put many foamies together so I did not have a problem, just a few things I thought should have been addressed. As an example, the front nose of the fuselage needs to be centered to the airfoiled wing, at least IMO, as with mine I had a slight bowing of the nose piece since the airfoil set it off center by laying it flat. Not complaining mind you, its just a little different than having all the pieces flat on the table.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 12:26 PM
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Kansas City, MO
Joined Jan 2000
697 Posts
How DO you get the front and back fuse pieces centered on the wing? I built the big Freestyle
but I can't remember how the heck I got everything lined up.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 04:39 PM
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Renton, Wa.
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The back turned out okay. Once I got it all together I had to cut it away and reglue it so it was centered.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 05:35 AM
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Kansas, USA
Joined Sep 1999
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The back of the wing should be the same thickness at the horizontal piece that attaches to it. The horizontal nose piece should be glued so that the center of the thickness lines up with the leading edge. Welders used as a contact cement makes this easier sense you cannot attach them while flat on a table. Once the lower fuselage is glued in place it will hold the horizontal pieces flat. I also do this step using welders as a contact cement. I actually hold the whole assembly vertical while pressing the vertical pieces to the horizontal assembly.
Mike
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 12:09 PM
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Kansas City, MO
Joined Jan 2000
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Excellent instructions Mike. That Paragraph would be great to add to the PDF instructions.
Got mine in the mail yesterday!!!
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 02:20 PM
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motorhead's Avatar
Kansas, USA
Joined Sep 1999
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I hope to redo my foamy build videos some time soon.
Where is my time machine? I need a 30 hour day!
Mike
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 11:34 AM
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Kansas City, MO
Joined Jan 2000
697 Posts
How did you mount the motor to the stick mount? The adapter disk is smaller than the Hacker A20-34s
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 03:41 PM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
Joined Nov 2006
1,160 Posts
It should be a perfect match. Try turning it 90 degrees... the hole spacing is different between the two pairs of holes.
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 09:13 PM
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Kansas City, MO
Joined Jan 2000
697 Posts
Finally figured it out by removing the x mount I had on it. Then I had to screw the mount on from the back. The screws were to short so I countersunk the holes in the mounting plate and they worked. This whole thing slips into the stick mount.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 04:16 PM
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Kansas City, MO
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Finally got mine done! Awesome!
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Last edited by Jerry Brown; Sep 20, 2012 at 04:27 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 04:45 PM
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Goleta, CA
Joined Mar 2006
745 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Brown View Post
Finally got mine done! Awesome!
Great paint job! What kind of paint did you use? Also, what type of masking tape did you use? I've always had a hard time finding tapes that stick to epp.

pootman
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 07:40 PM
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Wichita, KS
Joined Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Brown View Post
Finally got mine done! Awesome!
Looks awesome!
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 08:01 PM
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motorhead's Avatar
Kansas, USA
Joined Sep 1999
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Great job. What is the weight?
Mike
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