Originally Posted by wparsons

And another couple orders:

---------------------
Quantity Item
2 Gens ace 800mah 3S1P 11.1V 20C Lipo battery pack
1 T-Pro MG996R 55G High Torque Digital Servo 10kg / .20sec
4 Extra FS-GTR 3 Channel R/C Car 2.4Ghz Receiver
1 FS-GT3B Digital 3ch 2.4ghz TX & RX LCD Transmitter & Receiver


SubTotal: $91.1
Shipping and Handling: $9.95
Tax: $0
Insurance: $0
Discount: $0
Total: $101.05


Quantity Item
1 Leopard 1/10 Scale Brushless System Combo w/ Brushless Motor/ESC/ Program Card 10.0R 3930KV


SubTotal: $59.5
Shipping and Handling: $9.95
Tax: $0
Insurance: $0
Discount: $2.98
Total: $66.47


Quantity Item
1 Extra FS-GTR 3 Channel R/C Car 2.4Ghz Receiver
1 FS-GT2 2.4G 2CH Gun Transmitter w/ 3 Channel Reciever (Black Version)


SubTotal: $27.1
Shipping and Handling: $9.95
Tax: $0
Insurance: $0
Discount: $0
Total: $37.05

Please accept my apology for giving you hard tim . Ok
I went on hobbyparts.com and add to the cart a car motor which costs 36 dollars. The only shipping option that cost 10 dollars is when I choose
Canada/Hawai/Alaska/... shipping method.

I guess this is what you use as well when you order from them right.


You said in your mesage:
You only get nailed with duty/handling fees from UPS, I've never had to pay Canada Post for anything sent by USPS, regardless of who sent it.

So I guess when I use Canada/Hawai/Alaska/... shipping method, the package will be sent by USPS and not by UPS which requires additional duty/handling fees right.

I just want to know the name of the shipping option you use is it Canada/Hawai/Alaska... or not.

As I said in post #9 ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...71&postcount=9 ), yes that's the option you want. Unless they specifically call it out as UPS it shouldn't come by then, and there's no way UPS would deliver it for that little money.

Originally Posted by wparsons

As I said in post #9 ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...71&postcount=9 ), yes that's the
option you want. Unless they specifically call it out as UPS it shouldn't come by then, and there's no way UPS would deliver it for that little money.

Ok.Thank you very much.I'll see how it works out.

one more thing
Yesterday Flysky GT3b transmitter arrived to me .From Your previous message I see that you also own GT3b . When I connected all the electronics to test it for the first time the servos that I connected to the receiver one by one worked well. But when I connected all the servos at the same time, they started to jitter and not respond to transmitter commands.

However I was sitting at the table, so I thought maybe it was too close so I moved to another room and then it kind of stopped jittering but still when I touched either steering or throttle they started to jitter again.

Do you think its the problem with transmitter or receiver .

I don't think its a problem with servos because,those servos come from my helicopter so they are good quality with good accuracy that does not make any noise at all when plugged in to its original helicopter receiver.

Are they actually moving, or are they just making noise? You only mention servos, what kind of receiver pack are you powering the receiver with?

Originally Posted by wparsons

Are they actually moving, or are they just making noise? You only mention servos, what kind of receiver pack are you powering the receiver with?

I am using Fly Sky FS Gt3b Transmitter with its own receiver that it comes with.
So I connected dc power source 5-6volts to power receiver and then I connected 2 servos in ch1 and ch2 of the receiver.Type of setup used in nitro cars.

So servos started to jitter and not correspond to any transmitter commands.
They just move side to side in very small increments and produce lot of noise and vibration..I placed them on my table and they vibrate so badly they just slide across.

But when I disconnect one servo out of two from the receiver and leave only one servo connected to receiver in any channel ,then it works fine.

but as soon as I connect second servo to receiver they both start to jitter.
Is is problem with a receiver or not .

Does it matter which servo you unplug? Does it matter which channels they're plugged into?

Try plugging servo A into channel 1 and servo B into channel 2. Unplug only one, then plug both in and unplug the other. Swap the servos/channels and try again.

To me it sounds like either your power source can't supply enough current to power the receiver and both servos, or one of the servos is damaged and sucking back huge amounts of power, or is shorting out.

Originally Posted by wparsons

Does it matter which servo you unplug? Does it matter which channels they're plugged into?

Try plugging servo A into channel 1 and servo B into channel 2. Unplug only one, then plug both in and unplug the other. Swap the servos/channels and try again.

To me it sounds like either your power source can't supply enough current to power the receiver and both servos, or one of the servos is damaged and sucking back huge amounts of power, or is shorting out.

I think I have to agree with your first opinion. I was powering the receiver with the dc current from my keyboard power source which supples 6v 350 miliampers of dc current. I was not actually using the battery pack

that has to be connected to receiver like in nitro car setup.
SO maybe that was a problem. I have not purchased the batterypack to power the receiver so I'll try it once I get it.

In this video actually Boby from nitrorcx.com is using battery pack to power the receiver so .I have to buy it .

Yeah, I doubt 350ma is enough for the RX and both servos.

Originally Posted by Evil Twin

The motor description in the link recommended an 18 amp speed control. I've been happy with the ones below, both are sold on ebay. In use I can't tell any difference between them but I'm not racing so I probably wouldn't notice. You may want to get a programming card, you push buttons to change settings like brake, acceleration and cutoff voltage. You can do the same thing through a 'tone' menu and your radio but it is a pain.

Are you running 2s or 3s lipo? If you are going to run 3s go with the trackstar, I saw an ezrun 18a description that said 2s only and the trackstar said 3s.

Turnigy TrackStar 18A 1/18th Scale Brushless Car ESC - search for 'TrackStar 18A'
HOBBYWING eZRun 18A - search for 'eZRun 18A'

battery


Hi. I looked at esc you suggested to me and then on Hobby king I found another esc
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...programm_.html

In your message you told me that if i am going to use 3slpo i should go with track star. Howe ever on the motor description it says the battersy :2s. So I can not use track star but I have to use the esc which I found which has 2s lipo input.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...:X:RTQ:US:1123

With a 3s esc you can use a 2s or 3s lipo, a 2s esc will only take a 2s lipo.

With a motor designed for a 2s lipo, you can use a 2s or 3s esc but you should stick with a 2s lipo. The 3s esc would give you the option of using a 3s lipo and motor designed to work on 3s in the future, so may be a better way to go.