ok cool. still can't find the leak!

I think I've fixed the leak but I can't test it until I fill the screw holes on the back. I got the stuffing tube mounted and got the engine to run. the engine runs real weird. won't start unless I take the spark plug out, give the starter cord a couple pulls, and put the plug back in. after that it'll only run for a little on full choke and then die. the mix is probly all wrong but there's two screws (ones wite and ones red) but they turn together and I don't know what each controls. it also sounds strange, I guess maby it's able to idle real low or something. there's two spots for fuel line on the carb and one's for letting fuel come back out of the carb when u press the priming button, so how do I hook it up tot the fuel bag? do I just put the y connecter that I got between the two and hook them both up to the bag with one hose?

That carb may be one of those CARB-mandated carbs so there might not be very adjustable. You should be able to just place a finger or thumb over the intake to prime it while pulling it over a few times slowly.
As far as the fuel return line by the primer, you really don't have to do anything with it as little if any fuel will come out of it while running. I have seen people run the line back if you have a dual-outlet fuel bag and use that line to fill the IV bag. I've also seen a return line run like you described. Baxter bags are set up for dual lines on most of them but other brands may not. I haven't had any luck with the other bags.

here's what I have right now: http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=405 there are two spots on the bag for lines but one is plugged. I was able to yank the plastic twisty pieces off the carb that control the mix and there are two screws that can move quite a bit. don't know which is which though.

Leave the second one alone then and just use the single line. Read up above where I said that you can if you want, hook up your return line to the T fitting or use the fuel button to cap the fill line.
If the carb is going to give you fits, see if you can find a Walbro 167.
The problem with Homie's is that they lost popularity quickly with the RC boat crowd when Zenoah appeared on the scene with the 230, a smaller lightweight engine that cranked out crazy RPM and HP for the time. The last seller that I know of for parts and accessories shut his doors not too long ago.
Although I'm not a Homelite fan, I'm still kicking myself in the rear for passing up a complete water-cooled Homelite with a tuned pipe system for $35.00! I could have resold that thing easily a dozen times and made a few bucks.

Ron
As a side note, about the time Zenoah began to make the marine 23, Homalite changed ownership and the new managment had no interest in selling parts into the hobby industry. That ment the manufacturers using Homies would have had to go back to buying complete string trimmers retail or switching to the Jap motors. I was working for Warehouse Hobbies at the time and it was a real scramble to develope a new clutch and motor mounting system for the new motors.

Dr John

Originally Posted by Ron Olson

Leave the second one alone then and just use the single line.

oh... I was turning both!

Originally Posted by Ron Olson

Read up above where I said that you can if you want, hook up your return line to the T fitting or use the fuel button to cap the fill line..

tried that but because there's always some air in the bulb for the beginning it kept putting air into the fuel line which would be brought back into the carb. to stop that I had to squeeze the bag and let a little gas leak out. my other problem is that the fuel line is just barely to big for the connecters on carb.

Originally Posted by Ron Olson

If the carb is going to give you fits, see if you can find a Walbro 167.

i'll look for one of those.

I got the flex shaft all sealed up around, stinger sealed and on along with the rudder which is mostly connected and sealed. I lost one of the mounting screws for the rudder! wrapped some copper pipe around the cylinder of the engine. still working on getting it tight the whole way around. is there any high temp heat conducting glue? I don't think copper and aluminum can be brazed together

nearly done with a mount for the engine. don't know how much glass I should use to hold it down but I don't think six layers (3 on top three on bottm) of heavy glass will break off. might enlarge the mounting holes and put a little silicon in the wholes to absorb some vibration.

I also tested how the boat would float with the engine and it is good. got the engine going but it doesn't now and it'll only stay going for about a minut. what's a good starting place for the 2 screws?

got the motor mount glassed into the boat

mounts connected realy well now! just gotta cleen up the messy bits. made a servo tray for throttle and kill switch. sealed the radio box with silicon. where can I find a 1/4" to 1/4" drive shaft coupler so that I can connect the engine to the shaft set up for the prop?

Don't worry about the air bubble in the primer as it isn't going to hurt anything. All that's doing anyway is helping to draw fuel up to the carb. On the carbs witohut primers, we just crank them over with a finger or thumb over it. No chokes, no primers.

Watch silicones around electronics as if it has an ammonia-like odor, don't use it as it can eat up your circuit boards. I use Corrosion X which is around $15.00 for an aerosol can. A can will last you forever and you'd throw away WD-40 after using this stuff! I've used it on frozen car door locks, hinges or anywhere you'd use WD-40 but better. NASA uses it, it's that good.
Brass tubing usually works better for wrapping aorund things like the cylinder head. Heat it up first, over a gas stove or propane torch does the job. Get it glowing orange, let it air cool then it becomes really easy to work with.

woops I ment radio box. I want to get some of that stuff. I've heard that you can dip electronics in it with out them being damaged! using brass tubing is a good idea! what size should I get?

I've got the spray can but I don't think that they make it in a way where it can be dipped. You can shoot servo's, RX's and switches with it without fear. I've also got some Aero-Plate which unfortunately not being made anymore that does the same thing. There is one more that's hard to find yet may still be available from some hobby shops called The Stuph that comes in a squirt bottle.
Don't use Plasti-Dip as I've tried it.

alright cool! I'll look for some.

what is a good way to connect the motor to the prop seeing as the flex shaft that has a threaded end is round and won't mount into the square hole in the engine. I haven't found any 1/4" couplers. I have one that I machined but it has to be re drilled so that it isn't 1/8" to 1/4" and it needs to be re taped to fit 4 set screws

the mount for the engine is completely done now. solved my fuel leak problem. got the engine running amazing. got it going fritingly fast and don't want to continue tuning it until I put some load on the engine because I saw some sparks coming out of the mufler