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Old Dec 29, 2012, 07:10 AM
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I was flying quad in GPS hold mode. Then the led flashed white for 2-3 seconds in quad. Tried to land immediatly, but the altitude just didn't decrease at all. Then i pushed the throttle to ZERO for a second and back to half. Nothing happened.. for a few seconds, but then the quad to just started to fall even the throttle was in half. I should have turned it to manual flight-mode right when it started to fall, Am I right? video:
aa1 (0 min 16 sec)
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 08:09 PM
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sydney, downunder
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Originally Posted by Zippy999 View Post
I was flying quad in GPS hold mode. Then the led flashed white for 2-3 seconds in quad. Tried to land immediatly, but the altitude just didn't decrease at all. Then i pushed the throttle to ZERO for a second and back to half. Nothing happened.. for a few seconds, but then the quad to just started to fall even the throttle was in half. I should have turned it to manual flight-mode right when it started to fall, Am I right? video: http://youtu.be/zHSNv39d1gk
that is very strange. That never happened to me. Redo your channel calibration, that should fix it.

Here's a brief summary of troubleshooting list.

erratic channel operation e.g. throttle being not responsive, drifting at high speed to either direction etc. : redo channel calibrations. You can spot the symptoms by checking the appropriate channel values in the GCS. Check also xelv values, if the values jumping to great number or constantly displaying great numbers then your IMU is likely to have caught radio/emi interference.

Copter not holding its altitude and position well in GPS mode: check magnetic declination values also redo ESC calibration. Calibrate the ESCs from the GCS, dont do it directly by hooking it up to the receiver one by one. If copter is exhibiting toilet bowl effect (TBE) even when sat lock is more than 8, turn the compass module to the appropriate direction to compensate the TBE.

I would suggest people to post in the other thread, which is this one. This thread is created by zero tech people but there's no reason to post in this thread unless they are actively engaging with users and helping them to troubleshoot their problems. So to say that this is an "owners thread" is beyond my understanding.
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 01:05 PM
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Hi Willie,

Thanks for the feedback. I haven't purchased any flight controller yet, hence why asking is the two 2.4GHz systems may or may not interfere with each other. I am just trying to make sure what ever subsequent equipment purchases I make, that all systems play nice together. :-)

As for the range extenders, I should have clarified, I was referring to the ZeroUAV extenders that are "soon to be released".

Best regards,

Sean
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 01:25 PM
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Joined Mar 2003
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Hi Sean

Ok yes this is the same extenders that I got and they are working very well.

You can also look at the YS-X4 which is about half the price and can almost do the same. I have 1 YS-X6, 2 YS-X4 and various other controllers/ autopilots. Since I got the first ZeroUAV system i realized that it is in a class of its own. These days I only fly this and nothing else.

If you want hassle-free flying this is the best system you can buy in my opinion. The support is also phenomenal.

This is just my 2 cents....

Regards

Willie
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 02:25 AM
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A prosperous and happy happy new year to all
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 05:25 AM
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Mozambique, Maputo City, Maputo
Joined Sep 2012
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Multiple flips over and crashes due to bad motor quality

Hi,
after many tests, most of them finished with crashes, I realized that the real problem of my hexacopter are the motors, not the YS-X6.
They have a 3 mm shaft that is fixed with a small screw to the rotating part of the motor. The shaft hasn't got a flat part where the screw could tighten it and at times the small screw get loose, so after a while the shaft-adapter-propeller block slips relative to the rotating part of the motor, reducing the propeller spin and this in turn tilts the hexa in this motor's direction eventually crashing without control. When I tried to tighten the screw a little bit more, it destroyed the threads and wont come out anymore, so I had to trow away the entire motor.
Even the propeller adapter, at time, doesn't grab the thin shaft firmly, so once I had an immediate flip over while flying, because the propeller came off with the adapter, and I am sure that I tightened all of them to the limit.
So, in my opinion, these type of motors (STO 4008-620 KV) are absolutely to avoid, especially if you are flying heavy hexacopters with more than 4-5 kg weight.
Unfortunately I bought 12 of these motors and now most of them are completely off for different reasons. I think that I have to buy better motors.
Any suggestion?
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 06:55 AM
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South Africa, GP, Johannesburg
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Originally Posted by archet View Post
Hi,
after many tests, most of them finished with crashes, I realized that the real problem of my hexacopter are the motors, not the YS-X6.
They have a 3 mm shaft that is fixed with a small screw to the rotating part of the motor. The shaft hasn't got a flat part where the screw could tighten it and at times the small screw get loose, so after a while the shaft-adapter-propeller block slips relative to the rotating part of the motor, reducing the propeller spin and this in turn tilts the hexa in this motor's direction eventually crashing without control. When I tried to tighten the screw a little bit more, it destroyed the threads and wont come out anymore, so I had to trow away the entire motor.
Even the propeller adapter, at time, doesn't grab the thin shaft firmly, so once I had an immediate flip over while flying, because the propeller came off with the adapter, and I am sure that I tightened all of them to the limit.
So, in my opinion, these type of motors (STO 4008-620 KV) are absolutely to avoid, especially if you are flying heavy hexacopters with more than 4-5 kg weight.
Unfortunately I bought 12 of these motors and now most of them are completely off for different reasons. I think that I have to buy better motors.
Any suggestion?
I would go for the RC Tiger range of motors. At least you know you will get quality. Look at eCalc and see which ones will suit you load etc.

Rob
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 12:22 PM
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YS-X6 Gimbal

Guys, I have set up a YS-X6 on a Hexa. All modes are working except the gimbal mode. I have put the signal(white wire) of the servo into the ET1 and ET2 of the MC. The servos are powered by a separate power supply. The servos are working, I have checked. My flying buddy an X4 on his Hexa and has the same problem. What are we missing or doing wrong?
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 12:37 PM
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Do you have a common ground between the two systems?

Regards

Willie
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 12:47 PM
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Canada, AB, Calgary
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Originally Posted by olhaynes View Post
Guys, I have set up a YS-X6 on a Hexa. All modes are working except the gimbal mode. I have put the signal(white wire) of the servo into the ET1 and ET2 of the MC. The servos are powered by a separate power supply. The servos are working, I have checked. My flying buddy an X4 on his Hexa and has the same problem. What are we missing or doing wrong?
I had to put the power from my BEC into motor port #8 to get power to the gimbal servos
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 03:56 PM
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What do u mean by common ground? And which two systems?
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 06:33 PM
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You supply the IMU with power and you supply the Gimbel with power. these two has to have a common grownd. In other words the red wire that you removed from the servo and now connected to your second source, also have to have a ground connected to the black wire from the servo.

regards

Willie
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 07:05 PM
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I am a little lost in ur explanation. You are saying that both the IMU and the gimbal must have a common ground. So a black wire must also go to the IMU from the servo and a black wire must also go from the power supply to the servo? So make the black wire from the servo a Y?
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by olhaynes View Post
I am a little lost in ur explanation. You are saying that both the IMU and the gimbal must have a common ground. So a black wire must also go to the IMU from the servo and a black wire must also go from the power supply to the servo? So make the black wire from the servo a Y?
Let me try to explain:

If you plug your servo directly into your IMU then it get the signal, positive, and negative from the IMU.

You want to power your servo from a different source like a BEC. So you cut the red positive wire that go to the servo and connect the red positive from the BEC (alternate source) to the red that go to the servo. You also have to connect the back negative from the BEC to the black that go to the servo but you have to also keep the black plugged into your IMU to provide the signal ground.

So now you will have your white signal wire from the servo connected to the IMU.
You will have your red positive wire connected to your BEC but not to the IMU.
You will have the black ground wire from the servo connected to your IMU (Signal Ground) while you will also have your black ground wire from your BEC to the Servo black to provide the Voltage ground.

Yes you make a Y lead on the black.

Remember not to make a Y on the red as you want to isolate the red from your IMU.

I hope this make sense.

If you still donít understand let me know and I will draw you a picture.

Regards

Willie
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 10:55 AM
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Thanks very much. We got them working!
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