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Old Nov 19, 2003, 04:48 PM
GO THE DOLPHIN!
ndflicks's Avatar
Central North Carolina
Joined Sep 2003
839 Posts
Boomer...

I've had a tough time with the 30 minute epoxy... It doesn't seem to stick very well. I'm using devcon brand. What brand and set time are you using? It'd be nice to have some that worked well around here.

Thanks,

Bill
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 05:51 PM
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CA
Joined Aug 2003
377 Posts
TP 3S 2100 on 400"F"

Boomerace recommends 400F gb with 12x6 prop for the SS, can I use the TP 3S 2100 Li-poly with the GWS 400 esc?
What kind of flight time should I expect?
Thanks. Lini
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 05:58 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by ndflicks
Boomer...

I've had a tough time with the 30 minute epoxy... It doesn't seem to stick very well. I'm using devcon brand. What brand and set time are you using? It'd be nice to have some that worked well around here.

Thanks,

Bill
Bill,
I use only Loctite epoxy... mostly 5 minute stuff.
boomer
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 06:01 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Re: TP 3S 2100 on 400"F"

Quote:
Originally posted by lini
Boomerace recommends 400F gb with 12x6 prop for the SS, can I use the TP 3S 2100 Li-poly with the GWS 400 esc?
What kind of flight time should I expect?
Thanks. Lini
Should work great and Voltage is within GWS specs. As to flight time depends on throttle usage but probably longer than you want to fly!
boomer
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 06:04 PM
Who Says Penguins Can't Fly?
aeropenguin's Avatar
Bay Area, California
Joined Jan 2003
2,713 Posts
lini,
I think some epoxies take longer than it says on the bottle - the 30 min. epoxy I use takes 2 hours to begin hardening, gets hard but still sticky after about 5 hours, and gets completely hardened after about 24 hours...
But, that's my epoxy. It's pretty fresh. All the others may be different. My hobby shop puts their name on it, so I can't tell you what brand it is.
-Michael
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 07:04 PM
2 many post 4 1 SlowStick
bubbadice's Avatar
Bossier City, La.
Joined Jun 2003
587 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by boomerace
Sorry Jeff but that's a bad idea. Anything but a soldered joint or a good connector like a micro Dean can fail at a crucial moment when power is most needed!
boomer
Temporary budget contraints, are going to lead me to see how much the JST's can take w/ the 8.4v KAN's.

As I understand it now, as long as I'm not WOT for extended times, ...I should be just fine, and flying safely. As for the day I 'up-grade', it appears Dean's MICRO's (Bruns/Boomer) will do the job for where I see myself going for quite a while.

As long as the JST's do me right, I'm not going to worry yet. I'll keep a eye (hand) on them, and let you guys know if I have any problems. (I'll include pics)

Re: glueing the FG rods to the wing, the intended location seems clearly indented, and proper length. I think next wing, I'm going to try this.

Tack the rods in perfectly seated position with thin CA. Then run a bead of Thick CA, like a neat caulking joint, on both sides to the wing. The epoxy appears to be 'bullet-proof' enough in that application, but messy and hard to do neatly. I'm not sure if one is stronger/better than the other, but I'm leaning towards Thick CA., ...but something doesn't seem right about leaning that direction.
bubba
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 07:31 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Bubba,
The secret is to put your 2" clear packing tape wrap around nice and smooth on the top of the wing on both sides... then lay your dihedral tube rod assembly on this in position seeing that it's tight against the wing and the sticky tape will keep it in this position. Then run a bead of thick CA on the gap between the wing and the rod created by the round rod against the flat wing leading edge. Then immediatly wrap the remaining 1" of the 2" wide tape around the rod and stick tightly to the underside of the wing. and if rod is tight against the wing it will stay in position during the wrap. Result nice smooth looking wrap with no ragged edges and strong as all getout! Repeat for rear of wing.
boomer
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 07:34 PM
Who Says Penguins Can't Fly?
aeropenguin's Avatar
Bay Area, California
Joined Jan 2003
2,713 Posts
Just make sure you've got foam-safe CA. Or else...

no, it's not mine.

-Michael
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 07:39 PM
GO THE DOLPHIN!
ndflicks's Avatar
Central North Carolina
Joined Sep 2003
839 Posts
Boomer,

Any suggestions on how to do that with probond? I never can properly compensate for the expansion of the foam...

Bill
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 07:48 PM
Who Says Penguins Can't Fly?
aeropenguin's Avatar
Bay Area, California
Joined Jan 2003
2,713 Posts
Just a guess here - never used probond before...
Lets say you applied it in dots, then folded the tape over like boomer suggested, and then let the probond expand horizontally to fill in the space between the glue dots, FG, and wing? Wouldn't that work?
-Michael
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 07:54 PM
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ndflicks's Avatar
Central North Carolina
Joined Sep 2003
839 Posts
Michael...

I'm not sure, but it's worth a try... So far the problem has been: When you run a thin strip of water and probond, then cover it with tape, the mixture starts foaming. Less water=less foaming, but longer dry time... I've found the "good mix" but it leeches between the adhesive of the tape and the foam the tape is stuck to. Make sense? So the tape isn't able to hold it. Initially it does just find, but as it cures, the probond corrupts the adhesive and pushes it up.

Bill
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 08:00 PM
Who Says Penguins Can't Fly?
aeropenguin's Avatar
Bay Area, California
Joined Jan 2003
2,713 Posts
Ooh, I see. What's wrong with having it expand a lot? Make just a few dots, and let them expand. I don't know how many you'll need, but you can estimate that yourself I guess.
Maybe the glue isn't the right one for the job? I haven't used the stuff, but I think it's more for filling in foam dents and gluing foam parts together (commonly used for the GWS Tigermoth). From that, I wouldn't expect it to hold onto FG. Also, doesn't it dry soft and foamy? I think you should use something that dries to be hard (Like CA) for the wing rods...
CA is really useful, one way or the other. Sooner or later, you're going to thank yourself very hard for buying it! I don't know how I could possibly live without it!
-Michael
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 08:22 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by ndflicks
Michael...

I'm not sure, but it's worth a try... So far the problem has been: When you run a thin strip of water and probond, then cover it with tape, the mixture starts foaming. Less water=less foaming, but longer dry time... I've found the "good mix" but it leeches between the adhesive of the tape and the foam the tape is stuck to. Make sense? So the tape isn't able to hold it. Initially it does just find, but as it cures, the probond corrupts the adhesive and pushes it up.

Bill
Bill,
I think it is good for foam repairs but totally wrong for glueing the rods to the wings as it does not work well with the tape as you found out. The method I have described works well with both epoxy and thick CA. But probond needs air to cure properly and the tape excludes that and screws up the glue joint! Epoxy and CA are not affected by the tape!
boomer
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Old Nov 19, 2003, 08:24 PM
GO THE DOLPHIN!
ndflicks's Avatar
Central North Carolina
Joined Sep 2003
839 Posts
I discovered that I had some sensitivities to CA that I don't have with probond. Of course, I used up what I had instead of throwing it away, lol... With scratchbuilding, I wouldn't trade probond for anything. I can cut and somewhat sand it when it's dry, and actually it works quite well with FG in my experience. It's just my personal preference after using so many other things. Heck, I started with dope on CL and balsa built ups covered in tissue paper about 16 years ago(my god, am I really 30???) At least you don't get inadvertently stoned with this glue, lol... I'm also REALLY new to foamies and have noticed it's quite different building and repairing them.

Bill

EDIT.. Boomer... yeah, I'm messing with it now. I think I may be better off using a few thin pieces of tape crosswise to hold the ends and middle of the FG reinforcements, let the probond do it's thing, then cut it/sand and finally apply tape last.
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Last edited by ndflicks; Nov 19, 2003 at 08:28 PM.
Old Nov 19, 2003, 08:34 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by ndflicks
I discovered that I had some sensitivities to CA that I don't have with probond. Of course, I used up what I had instead of throwing it away, lol... With scratchbuilding, I wouldn't trade probond for anything. I can cut and somewhat sand it when it's dry, and actually it works quite well with FG in my experience. It's just my personal preference after using so many other things. Heck, I started with dope on CL and balsa built ups covered in tissue paper about 16 years ago(my god, am I really 30???) At least you don't get inadvertently stoned with this glue, lol... I'm also REALLY new to foamies and have noticed it's quite different building and repairing them.

Bill

EDIT.. Boomer... yeah, I'm messing with it now. I think I may be better off using a few thin pieces of tape crosswise to hold the ends and middle of the FG reinforcements, let the probond do it's thing, then cut it/sand and finally apply tape last.
Bill that will work fine! I made the mistake of confining it in a wing rod install and I had some real issues with it curing properly ... finally took a hobby knife and cut a bunch of holes in the tape and when it cured out finally I rewrapped the joint with another layer of tape over the original. Didn't end up looking too bad when complete!
boomer
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