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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:14 PM
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I did not want to comment on this ail/servo issue but what the heck, it may be of some relevancy.

During the set up of the ail linkages and the adjustment of the throw, I was having problem with the servo arm (Hitec 5065) getting stuck and not moving with tx inputs. In my case, it was that the steel linkage was just slightly off angle which caused binding and prevent the servo arm from moving in one direction. Don't know if this is what you folks are experiencing.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:36 PM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
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Originally Posted by nickelbn1 View Post
I am so mad at this plane right now after the wing issue (which still isnt fully corrected) and now this. I just want to stomp on this plane. And 3dhs not doing anything about this wing issue and ignoring my last email is not making me want to buy another plane from them. I didnt rant or rave or anything.
Most of the issues I see on the threads I follow are setup related. So, I've been following this thread and your posts see the same signs. Let me see if I got this straight:

- You are using a DX6i - good radio, but known for not being able to drive servos to their fullest capability (125% vs the 150% on the DX8). I haven't read where your end point adjustments are, but I'm guessing they are at 100% vs 125%
- You are using Solar servos, which are relatively new to the market. I've read a mixed bag of good and bad reviews on them (one even destroying his 48" EPP plane from blowback on a down line). By the way, I've never heard of the brand you are getting in, but have seen the numbers being quoted in their specs - same or greater torque as name brand servos 4x their price - sounds too good to be true. Hopefully they pan out.
- You increased your aileron throw at first to fight an unresponsive plane (40*?) - this stresses servos more and is usually not what you want to do when you see signs of blowback. Looking at your picture, you're one hole closer to the ailerons than I am on the control horn, which is a weaker position.
- You tightened your EZ connectors all the way down - should be as loose as possible without wobbling on the arm. This further puts your servos at a mechanical disadvantage.
- You're using a linear 3A BEC - should be good enough provided you DON'T have any binding. Binding servos have been known to brown out receivers by taking the voltage down below the receiver's cutoff value. A BEC working near it's limit is easier to bring down.

The twisted wing is a legitimate airframe issue, but all the others point to setup. They are easy mistakes to make - I think I've done at least a couple things on this list. But I would say, before you damn the plane, the company and EPP altogether, you ought to fix the problems first.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:44 PM
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United States, MN
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopper62 View Post
I did not want to comment on this ail/servo issue but what the heck, it may be of some relevancy.

During the set up of the ail linkages and the adjustment of the throw, I was having problem with the servo arm (Hitec 5065) getting stuck and not moving with tx inputs. In my case, it was that the steel linkage was just slightly off angle which caused binding and prevent the servo arm from moving in one direction. Don't know if this is what you folks are experiencing.
I think I've got that combined with the ez-links being too tight. Like I said thinking about going to ball links which would solve the issue. But how do you loosen the ez-links without the screw holding it on the arm falling off? Do people just put it on loose with thread locker and let it dry?
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:48 PM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
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Originally Posted by grimbeaver View Post
I think I've got that combined with the ez-links being too tight. Like I said thinking about going to ball links which would solve the issue. But how do you loosen the ez-links without the screw holding it on the arm falling off? Do people just put it on loose with thread locker and let it dry?
You put thick CA on the nut at the end and hit it with kicker. Be careful not to let CA seep into the joint between the arm and the connector or you'll have binding.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:03 PM
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Springdale, AR
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jboy90277 View Post
Most of the issues I see on the threads I follow are setup related. So, I've been following this thread and your posts see the same signs. Let me see if I got this straight:

- You are using a DX6i - good radio, but known for not being able to drive servos to their fullest capability (125% vs the 150% on the DX8). I haven't read where your end point adjustments are, but I'm guessing they are at 100% vs 125%
- You are using Solar servos, which are relatively new to the market. I've read a mixed bag of good and bad reviews on them (one even destroying his 48" EPP plane from blowback on a down line). By the way, I've never heard of the brand you are getting in, but have seen the numbers being quoted in their specs - same or greater torque as name brand servos 4x their price - sounds too good to be true. Hopefully they pan out.
- You increased your aileron throw at first to fight an unresponsive plane (40*?) - this stresses servos more and is usually not what you want to do when you see signs of blowback. Looking at your picture, you're one hole closer to the ailerons than I am on the control horn, which is a weaker position.
- You tightened your EZ connectors all the way down - should be as loose as possible without wobbling on the arm. This further puts your servos at a mechanical disadvantage.
- You're using a linear 3A BEC - should be good enough provided you DON'T have any binding. Binding servos have been known to brown out receivers by taking the voltage down below the receiver's cutoff value. A BEC working near it's limit is easier to bring down.

The twisted wing is a legitimate airframe issue, but all the others point to setup. They are easy mistakes to make - I think I've done at least a couple things on this list. But I would say, before you damn the plane, the company and EPP altogether, you ought to fix the problems first.
Wow. Very informative. Yes you are correct in all you said. Except i am not daming 3dhs for anything but the wing twist issue. I have worked on my wing several times and it has gotten better but i still have a right wing roll issue and after letting them know this they have not responded to me anymore. I think they should be doing more then they are for people who cant get theirs fixed. Anyway, i dont blame them for anything else but that. The EPP i just dont like and my aileron issue may well be my fault on a setup problem. I could make a case however that their manual does show to put a z bend in your pushrod yet they give you ez-connects and then dont tell you how to properly use them. Hence i over tightened mine.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:09 PM
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Fort Wayne
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Proper Plane setup is necessary for any size plane. Make sure everything moves freely. Nothing can be binding especially if your not using the recommended gear. If your wing still has a twist, then give it another twist. If you can get your self to a Huckfest in the next few weeks lots of us could help. These are really fun planes. Granted the proto types didn't have a twist issue, but the production one we have straightened easily. We dont get blow back and we fly it really hard.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:20 PM
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Springdale, AR
Joined Dec 2006
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I will try to keep twisting. All I'm saying is i have twisted it 20+ times and best i can see its straight but still rolls right at close to full throttle. I wish i lived close to a huckfest but they are all too far away.

So jboy....

Your saying i need my end points at 125% vs 100%?

Also my ailerons are at 40 degrees max and you think it should be 35 max?

Also my pushrod is on the next to farthest out hole on the aileron horn and yours is on the farthest out hole?
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:41 PM
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Fort Wayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickelbn1 View Post
I will try to keep twisting. All I'm saying is i have twisted it 20+ times and best i can see its straight but still rolls right at close to full throttle. I wish i lived close to a huckfest but they are all too far away.

So jboy....

Your saying i need my end points at 125% vs 100%?

Also my ailerons are at 40 degrees max and you think it should be 35 max?

Also my pushrod is on the next to farthest out hole on the aileron horn and yours is on the farthest out hole?
Ours is in the outside hole on the control horn, and second hole in on servo arm.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:54 PM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickelbn1 View Post
I will try to keep twisting. All I'm saying is i have twisted it 20+ times and best i can see its straight but still rolls right at close to full throttle. I wish i lived close to a huckfest but they are all too far away.

So jboy....

Your saying i need my end points at 125% vs 100%?

Also my ailerons are at 40 degrees max and you think it should be 35 max?

Also my pushrod is on the next to farthest out hole on the aileron horn and yours is on the farthest out hole?
125% gets you the best resolution and torque out of your servo for the DX6i

30-35% is the recommended throws on the ailerons. I go by the pictures on the manual for the placement of the contol linkages. They're usually spot on as to where they need to be. Jsmith285 is the expert on these matters, so I'd go by what he's using - probably what Joe Smith's using on his plane.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 06:25 PM
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United States, NY, Rochester
Joined May 2011
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Well everything arrived today for this plane. Looks like my wing has a slight twist but I think I got it all straightened out. Did the massage thing to break up the glue that everyone is talking about and gave it a couple good twists. With the pencils on the wingtips it looks pretty straight now. I probably won't really know until I get it on the fuse itself and start lining it all up.

Went with the omega 72g for a motor and that is kind of a tight fit itself. Lol. Looks like I will have to redrill the mounting holes for it as they don't quite line up, which is no big deal. Did folks slice off the front foam square to make it easier to work on motor mounting? I was thinking of carefully slicing that out of there and gluing it back on afterwards. I thought I had seen that 10 or 20 pages back. Hahaha.

Oh hinge slots. Looks like I need to slice them in. Any tips on making sure they are in the right spots? Can't seem to find the best way to do it, I know it was in the thread I just can't find it at the moment.

Hoping to really start the build later on. Looks like its going to be a fun plane.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 06:45 PM
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United States, KS, Spring Hill
Joined Dec 2010
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I cut the nose foam out right along the glue joint (around the outside edge where it glues to the fuse sides). Made it way easier to get the holes marked and drilled and get the motor installed!

I put my ailerons on the wing upside down (like they had 180 degrees of deflection) and marked the hinge locations with a sharpie first. Then got out a brand new xacto blade and opened them up right along the centerline. Its actually pretty easy to do cause the top and bottom epp wing sheeting is glued right there. I think foam safe CA might be a good idea along the hinge line just in case you get a lot in there and it seeps down to where the wing core foam is, which apparently doesn't like non-foam safe glues!
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 06:49 PM
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[QUOTE=Jboy90277;22565839]30-35% is the recommended throws on the ailerons.QUOTE]

Is that old guys rate

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaeolien View Post
Went with the omega 72g for a motor and that is kind of a tight fit itself. Lol. Looks like I will have to redrill the mounting holes for it as they don't quite line up, which is no big deal. Did folks slice off the front foam square to make it easier to work on motor mounting? I was thinking of carefully slicing that out of there and gluing it back on afterwards. I thought I had seen that 10 or 20 pages back. Hahaha.

Oh hinge slots. Looks like I need to slice them in. Any tips on making sure they are in the right spots? Can't seem to find the best way to do it, I know it was in the thread I just can't find it at the moment.
I'd to drill new holes for the 72g. I slit the seams and peeled back the foam (looks like a banana) for easy access to the firewall.

I'd to "slice" the foam for the hinges for the elev and rudd. No problem with the ail. I used painter tape to mark the locations of the hinges.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 06:49 PM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaeolien View Post
Well everything arrived today for this plane. Looks like my wing has a slight twist but I think I got it all straightened out. Did the massage thing to break up the glue that everyone is talking about and gave it a couple good twists. With the pencils on the wingtips it looks pretty straight now. I probably won't really know until I get it on the fuse itself and start lining it all up.

Went with the omega 72g for a motor and that is kind of a tight fit itself. Lol. Looks like I will have to redrill the mounting holes for it as they don't quite line up, which is no big deal. Did folks slice off the front foam square to make it easier to work on motor mounting? I was thinking of carefully slicing that out of there and gluing it back on afterwards. I thought I had seen that 10 or 20 pages back. Hahaha.

Oh hinge slots. Looks like I need to slice them in. Any tips on making sure they are in the right spots? Can't seem to find the best way to do it, I know it was in the thread I just can't find it at the moment.

Hoping to really start the build later on. Looks like its going to be a fun plane.
Yes, cut away the square and reglue when you're done. You might want to take the opportunity to reinforce your motor mount with epoxy first (front and back). I put fiberglass tape (like you get for drywall seams) and a thin layer of epoxy over it. You'll have to remove the EPP on the backside to expose the motor mount. I've gone nose in three times now, and it's held strong. I also put a carbon fiber rod in the square tube to keep it from collapsing in a crash like it did for Chopper.

On the hinges, I just butted the control surface with the wing/stab and looked where the CA hinges were touching. I cut a little bigger so I could make any necessary adjustments once they were in.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 07:21 PM
fly and then fly some more!
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Springdale, AR
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmith285 View Post
Ours is in the outside hole on the control horn, and second hole in on servo arm.
thanks, I will try that. what is weird is that I have 40% throws right now and my pushrod is one hole farther in on the aileron horn and I still dont get a very quick roll. it looks like it rolls faster in the videos I have seen.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:11 PM
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United States, PA, Philadelphia
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Roll rate also depends on your airspeed. Try a wot dive and roll. I bet she will roll like a bullet. Make sure you have plenty of altitude.
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