Here it is the new Pitts from FMS :


wingspan : 1400 mm

length : 1297 mm

weight : from 3300 g (statement by FMS), (3600g with an 6S4000)

motor : BL5060-KV360

controller : BL85A with extern 5A S-BEC ( new ones have a 100A with intern BEC)

battery : LiPo ca. 4000-5000 mAh 6S

servos : 4x 17g



Some pics :









It's not long ago that I wished FMS would do it and here it is ...

Wrong colour but that can be corrected...



Rolf

Is that a Pitts special? If so I might have to get one and repaint it as Lil' Stinker. (My favorite plane in the air and space museum)

NICE!!! I hope it's gonna be 140cm.

I was also wondering if that's an FMS model, it doesn't tell the manufacturer. It's not Dynam, it is 140cm wing span:

http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id/2684

It has to be this one ...
´







Rolf

Looks sweet! I hope it's offered somewhere other the the fruit stand.

Here are some nice videos :

FMS Pitts Bi-Plane Flight Review with Pete HD (10 min 48 sec)

FMS BIPLANE MAIDEN (13 min 3 sec)

FMS Pitts 1400 mm awesome plane, with better resolution! Ahora si! (2 min 43 sec)

Rolf

Nice.....wanting this one.

Can someone provide a review, not much found on the web.

I'm building it so I will give you some informations.

Let's start with the real weight for the original unpainted Pitts.

- complete model without receiver : 2850g

- battery 6S 4000 mAh 40C ~ 700g

So you are looking to a weight of ~ 3600g (+/- 100g according to your battery)

The struts on the left and right side are not detachable - original, they are glued.

If you wish to remove the wings you have to find a solution for that on your own - I'm thinking about that.

The baldachin is on the flimsy side, I'm going to reinforce it but I don't know how at the moment.

Biggest problem in my opinion is that the original battery compartment is useless because you won't get the right CG using it -

I'm thinking about it at the moment.

My painting made the problem even worse - to get the right CG of~95mm I have to lay my battery cross in front of the baldachin,

so I opened the front fuselage on top to make a new battery compartment but things aren't so easy because the motor mounting

is a real big one.








There is only little room between the motor mounting and the baldachin to position the battery vertically.

You might guess - I'm thinking about it ...

The plastic parts that hold elevator and ruder together are glued crooked and with only little glue.

I've redone it with epoxy.

The original wheels rattle because the drilling in the wheels is oversized, so I replaced them with foam wheels

and the right drilling ...

Between all this I painted it and made my own decals to give it the original look.




Really nice model but a lot of things to do to make me happy...


Rolf

Thanks for the info, I'd really like to get a Pitts this spring and I'm looking at this one. Never bought from banana hobby so I'm not sure of the quality. Please keep posting your build. How are the servos and electronics?

Don't think about it, buy it.

It has an 85Ah controller with 6A UBEC.

4x servos with plastic gear and 3kg of torque. I replaced the one for the elevator with a metal gear one.

Rolf

Also how dose the plane brake down for transport?

Wings are only screwed on and you can split them in halves.

The problem is that the left and right side struts have to be glued on - I will solve this problem on my own.

Ruder and elevator are screwed on but the instruction says that you should glue a little piece of the ruder into the fuselage - I won't do that because it is needless in my opinion.

The ruder is hold onto the elevator by a plastic connector (reglued it with epoxy) and hold down by two screws, that should be enough.

The landing gear is screwed on , too.

With a little customizing you are able to disassamble it, so that you can transport it even in a small car (I own a VW Lupo)...


FMS 1400mm Trojan




Rolf

To solve the problem with the struts I found a solution that will reinforce the struts and give you the possibility to disassemble the wings.

Here it is :





I will split the EPO so that the aluminium sits in the middle between the EPO like a sandwich.

Between both alu parts sits the original GFK rod that will be glued with epoxy to the alu parts.

The EPO halves will be glued with UHU POR.

The original 2,5mm screws will be replaced by 3x15mm screws with a 3mm locknut.

To reinforce the drilling in the plastic connector I will glue 0,8mm alu parts on the outside to it.

Now I can completely unscrew the struts when ever I wish.



Rolf

Looks good