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Old Aug 24, 2012, 01:58 PM
Soaring Fanatic!
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Oops, the text was cut off bellow the photo.
It should read: he bottom spar is the original 6mm OD x 4.5mm ID tube and is a little shorter than the new set. Despite it being 4 pieces; the whole airframe is more rigid now than before :-)

BTW: The 5mm OD Joining Spar had to be sanded down quite a bit to fit into the other tubes; then sanded a little more to accommodate a layer of medium CA for a snug fit.

-8th
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 09:54 AM
Home of A-10 - Farmingdale NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8thelephant View Post
Oops, the text was cut off bellow the photo.
It should read: he bottom spar is the original 6mm OD x 4.5mm ID tube and is a little shorter than the new set. Despite it being 4 pieces; the whole airframe is more rigid now than before :-)

BTW: The 5mm OD Joining Spar had to be sanded down quite a bit to fit into the other tubes; then sanded a little more to accommodate a layer of medium CA for a snug fit.

-8th

Looks like a nice plane...!

-mike-
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 06:55 PM
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fianaly broke it!

well I finally borke a control arm!

I fought myself in wanting to change them from the get go and I got about 30 flights and as many ruff landing out of it so that is not bad.

About 50% of my flying require me to land in a field that has 3-5 foot tall Sage in it so I am not upset at all

Since I like to jack with stuff and do things it's not designed to do, I'm going to try moving the servos to the top of the wing.

I'll work on it this week and pass along success or failure!

Still loving flying it, I'm finally to the point I'm abusing it as hard as I'm able to and it has held up great, with the re-do I'm hoping to get more deflection out of it.

L8r - S
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 08:14 PM
Yeah, I can CRA$H that!
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ESC getting hot

I've flown about 6 flights on my Neptune after every flight I find my ESC is very hot to the touch and battery pretty warm. I even relocated the ESC to the outside (bottom) it still comes back hot even on less than 75% throttle flights. Any suggestions from anyone? My battery pack is a Gforce 2200 3s 40c.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by thndr1mj View Post
I've flown about 6 flights on my Neptune after every flight I find my ESC is very hot to the touch and battery pretty warm. I even relocated the ESC to the outside (bottom) it still comes back hot even on less than 75% throttle flights. Any suggestions from anyone? My battery pack is a Gforce 2200 3s 40c.
I can tell you for sure what is wrong.

Take it out of the foam!

Foam is an insulator, that is why we keep our Beer in it!

Look back in the posts I have a pic of mine mounted outside it's purple you cannot miss it.

The way you have it mounted it cannot get any air through it and that is what is doing it. I have a $12.00 40Amp ESC and it comes down as cool as the outside air BUT previous to moving it into the air I actually started to melt the foam!

Don't worry about aerodynamics, it will fly fine!

- S
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by thndr1mj View Post
I've flown about 6 flights on my Neptune after every flight I find my ESC is very hot to the touch and battery pretty warm. I even relocated the ESC to the outside (bottom) it still comes back hot even on less than 75% throttle flights. Any suggestions from anyone? My battery pack is a Gforce 2200 3s 40c.
Very nice stand by the way... I like that!
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 08:23 PM
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Moving servos to the top....

Stupid simple, less than an hour to do the first side, which means it will take 15 min. to do the second side.

I'll wait till the glue dries and get the first side 100% set up and finish taking pics and post them but I should be able to get much more throw and I reused all hardward except the Control horn.

Once verified to be as good as it looks I'll post pics and explain but so far it looks like the hookup!

- S
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 08:32 PM
Yeah, I can CRA$H that!
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Very nice stand by the way... I like that!
Thanks, I'll move the ESC up top shortly and see how it goes.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 08:49 PM
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Thanks, I'll move the ESC up top shortly and see how it goes.
As well too, my battery get a tad warm, nothing to worry about, but be sure you are not running it down too far.

Not sure where you are at in your RC Career so please excuse me if I'm telling you stuff you know.

I will usually run mine down to about 11.1 volts as the most. Discharging beyond that can make the batteries hot and shorten the lifespan of the battery as well.

I have my timer set for 5 min. and I run about 75% like you do with bursts of 100% here and there.

mine come down with about 20% left and that is a great place to be (about 11.4 volts if I remember right)

Anyway, I'm sure after you move the ESC take off all that glue you should be good to go unless there is something wrong!

Take care, - S
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 09:08 PM
Yeah, I can CRA$H that!
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Originally Posted by -S- View Post
As well too, my battery get a tad warm, nothing to worry about, but be sure you are not running it down too far.

Not sure where you are at in your RC Career so please excuse me if I'm telling you stuff you know.

I will usually run mine down to about 11.1 volts as the most. Discharging beyond that can make the batteries hot and shorten the lifespan of the battery as well.

I have my timer set for 5 min. and I run about 75% like you do with bursts of 100% here and there.

mine come down with about 20% left and that is a great place to be (about 11.4 volts if I remember right)

Anyway, I'm sure after you move the ESC take off all that glue you should be good to go unless there is something wrong!

Take care, - S

Nov. will be 2 years into RC flying for me. I live by 3.8v per cell. I still have most of my orginal Batteries they are all still going strong...We won't talk about the ones that were destroyed in crashes.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 09:30 PM
Home of A-10 - Farmingdale NY
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Originally Posted by thndr1mj View Post
I've flown about 6 flights on my Neptune after every flight I find my ESC is very hot to the touch and battery pretty warm. I even relocated the ESC to the outside (bottom) it still comes back hot even on less than 75% throttle flights. Any suggestions from anyone? My battery pack is a Gforce 2200 3s 40c.
I'm just curious as to if your ESC came with your Neptune..and does it have a linear or switching BEC. What brand/model.....Switching BEC's run cooler.

Also, ESC's have a heat sink that is protected by the products covering. You can take the covering off over the heat sink, and your ESC should run much cooler.

Bruce does a great job talking about ESC's here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22CpRl2_TRI
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by thndr1mj View Post
Nov. will be 2 years into RC flying for me. I live by 3.8v per cell. I still have most of my orginal Batteries they are all still going strong...We won't talk about the ones that were destroyed in crashes.
LOL OK then cool, that is where I like to end up but I push it a bit

Like I said just trying to help, not questioning you abilities or knowledge!

Good luck, I think you will find that fixes the ESC issue it did for me!

- S
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Servo move to top of wing

I got home late today so I could only finish up the first side but it looks like a winner so far.

instruction manual has a max deflection of 30mm I may come close to 50mm when all is said and done.

Steps:
1 - remove old servo, take a long razor blade and keeping the angle as straight as possible make cuts even with the existing 4 sides cutting straight through the wing. Pic #1 is a view of the top of the wing after this cut.

2 - Cut small slits for the servo tabs slightly smaller than the tabs to ensure a good fit. trace out servo top as a gauge for the next step (pic #2)

3 - I use a soldering iron and I have found it to be the best way to form foam and when it melts it it seems to get a big stronger in that area... anyway measure out how far you want the arm to clear using slight pressure form the soldering iron until comfortable with how much foam it removes (Pic 3) - I did wind up tweaking this a bit more when closer to finished.

4 - I used some Dubro "strong" horns and followed the same angle as the factory horns using the soldering iron again to enlarge the countersink in the aileron. I reused one of the existing holes from the old control horns and gently poked another through with a drill bit. ** when reattaching the control rod clamp (the round silver things) :-) be sure it moves freely (I used a 2mm drill bit) and put a single drop of CA on the threads to keep it from working loose.

after I was sure it was positioned correctly and at the correct angle, I put several drops of Gorilla White glue under the horn to fill in the divots and strengthen the mount. GG expands ALOT and fills in the old screw hols and is excellent for fixing holes and such in foam.

Repeat this procedure for the other side where the control horn bolts onto the other side, test fit and squirt a few drops of GG in there as well, Tighten screws but not too much, just to where they are seated but NOT crushing the foam. Leave it for a few hours and the GG will do the rest. Cut off the excess GG that squirts out whe it is dry and you should have a rock solid connections. (pic 4)

5 - on the bottom of the wing was the original servo hole, I used a hot glue gun to run a small bead around the servo to hold it in place, and applied some on the top of the servo as well. At this time I'm not going to fill that hole I do not think it will weaken the air frame enough to matter but if I see stress cracks or worse I'll fill this hole with Gorilla Glue it rocks!

The empty pocket makes a great place to stow the extra Servo lead wire (pic 5)

6 - I then put some extream duct tape (very light and very strong) over the servo leads, and cover the hole as needed. and BAM there it is. (pic 6)

7 - I put some extream duct tape over the top of the servo, I did have to remove about a 1/4 inch of the control rod that was hitting the aileron and stopping from achieving full throw Other than that no other mods were done and the only new parts are the Control horns them selves.

In pic 7 you will see a Cotter Key that I ran down over the control rod about half way and used some foam safe CA to hold in place. The reason for this is to keep the wire from bending on that last 5mm or so of throw and it has worked great on other flying wings to keep stuff straight, I'm not super confident the CA will hold correctly I may redo that with GG if needed I'll update if I do. Finished product is Pic 7.

The first side took me about 1.5 hours, because I had to figure it all out, which hole to use for best throw, which control horn, find screws, ponder all possibilities, etc. I expect side two to take about 30 min not counting glue dry time.

I'll report back after the first flight but if this thing can handle 45-50mm throws without blowing out an aileron it should make it pretty darn cool .

I wrote this sorta quick, feel free to ask questions if i confused anyone :-)

I like it..... - S
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Nice mod S.
I'm wishing TechOne had designed this ship for top mounted servos or extended the servo covers to encapsulate the whole linkage assembly.
Really like that cotter key idea too. Maybe upgrading to carbon rods would help this issue as well?

A lot of Gorilla Glue was used on my build so far and it's really helped stiffen things up

-8th
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:31 PM
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Nice mod S.
I'm wishing TechOne had designed this ship for top mounted servos or extended the servo covers to encapsulate the whole linkage assembly.
Really like that cotter key idea too. Maybe upgrading to carbon rods would help this issue as well?

A lot of Gorilla Glue was used on my build so far and it's really helped stiffen things up

-8th
Thanks! - I like goofing around and "fix" things..... I think marketing groups get in the way of the designers when it comes to this stuff they want a "pretty" product and putting control equipment on top isn't pretty

I agree, if the protectors went all the way back it would have been nicer, and I thought of doing that as well but that wouldn't have taken as long so I opted for the tear down and make it better....

I bet carbon rods would be the hookup, I wanted to try to accomplish the goal without any new hardware except the horns. I use carbon rods a lot on my scratch built flat foamies and they work awesome, the only doubt I had with this one is how they would mount...

On my flat foamies, I put the wire ends on the end of the CF and put a drop of CA on it then shrink tube it and that had always worked well, but this bird has a lot more force on the equipment because of the speed and high stress turns I'd imagine wrapping the wire on the CF rod with thread then coated with CA and shrink tube would do it, but like I said I set a goal to use all the original parts this time around.

Gorilla Glue rocks I waited until about a year ago to try it the first time and it is the most versatile foam filler I have ever found, I reconstructed my old wing several times an each time I had huge holes in it that I filled and taped over and it was like new I hope the inventor is filthy rich he deserves it!

well back to work, I hope to get the 2nd side done tonight depends on work and such I have a great place to fly about 20 feet out my back door for landing gearless birds and I'll report back after I beat on it pretty hard and see what happens.

The only thing I can think of that might need some tweaking is the hinge line but really think it is strong enough at least for now!

TTYL - S
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