Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:17 AM
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United States, MO
Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by flarssen View Post
I suggested extending the existing tabs, that are used to secure the lid, by .1". Then both the lid and the case can be fixed by using long M3 bolts.

Fred
You can actually use the existing bolt holes with, as you said, longer M3's, you would just have to drill your top plate if you don't have existing holes in it.

Here is my idea. Please excuse the crude drawing as I am no artist or photographer!
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 12:12 PM
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Fort Worth, Texas
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I have a new one in the works everyone... I am going to try and use the standard hole spacing for the next one. I have been extremely busy at work here lately, so I am hurrying as fast as possible.

The new rev will also have the hole for the voltage alarm

Chris
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Son, Norway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USNRetSEAL View Post
You can actually use the existing bolt holes with, as you said, longer M3's, you would just have to drill your top plate if you don't have existing holes in it.
I meant the lugs on the sides, not the corners. Corners would be easy to do by drilling holes at standard offsets, but the Q450 frame (without PCB), are open were the corners will be located for X-quad. But it sounds like something are in the works .

Fred
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 06:07 PM
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Joined Dec 2010
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Okie I see the web sell it, but expensive
$15.00 +$3.95=$18.95, new KK2.0 board $29.99, if buy same time with frame,$27.00,
I think no need it, make copter more weight
but if U have frame 550 up, okie use it for protect and crash
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 07:09 PM
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Fort Worth, Texas
Joined Oct 2004
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Dienson,

Thank you for your reply. I think people buy this for a couple different reasons. The first is crash protection. The second is to make it look more "professional"

I hope you will reconsider, and give one a shot.

Thanks again!

Chris
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 04:31 AM
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Australia, VIC, Frankston
Joined Jul 2012
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Chris where will you be putting the Hole for the Lipo alarm wire? mine are soldered from the bottom and come out of the side, but it wouldn't be a problem i could make my own hole if needed.

Also the 4 screws you have to hold the two pieces together, could you get rid of them and just have pre-drilled holes to match the KK2 board ones? that way you can mount the board and secure the two pieces in one go, saving a little weight not having the extra screws. It seems strange that you haven't got pre-drilled holes to match the KK2's thats all.

And lastly do you ship to Australia?

Thanks.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 05:52 AM
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The Netherlands, LI, Venray
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CH33ZEBURG3R View Post
Chris where will you be putting the Hole for the Lipo alarm wire? mine are soldered from the bottom and come out of the side, but it wouldn't be a problem i could make my own hole if needed.

And lastly do you ship to Australia?

Thanks.
I used the arrow hole for the 2 wires soldered at the top of the board to a JST connector connected to the power distribution board
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 07:15 AM
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Fort Worth, Texas
Joined Oct 2004
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I am going to make the hole on the top of the case.

I understand your idea on using the mounting holes that are already in the board... The main reason I didn't use them was to isolate the board from any frame vibrations using the foam mounting tape. This way the board is not firmly attached to the frame, just the box is. I tried making one using the board attached, and ran into some vibration problems...

In a hard crash, the frame also tweaked a board mounted like this and broke it. I opted for the isolated mounts.

Chris

Quote:
Originally Posted by CH33ZEBURG3R View Post
Chris where will you be putting the Hole for the Lipo alarm wire? mine are soldered from the bottom and come out of the side, but it wouldn't be a problem i could make my own hole if needed.

Also the 4 screws you have to hold the two pieces together, could you get rid of them and just have pre-drilled holes to match the KK2 board ones? that way you can mount the board and secure the two pieces in one go, saving a little weight not having the extra screws. It seems strange that you haven't got pre-drilled holes to match the KK2's thats all.

And lastly do you ship to Australia?

Thanks.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 08:13 AM
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Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Moon View Post
I am going to make the hole on the top of the case.

I understand your idea on using the mounting holes that are already in the board... The main reason I didn't use them was to isolate the board from any frame vibrations using the foam mounting tape. This way the board is not firmly attached to the frame, just the box is. I tried making one using the board attached, and ran into some vibration problems...

In a hard crash, the frame also tweaked a board mounted like this and broke it. I opted for the isolated mounts.

Chris
I agree with your logic, keep the board isolated in the case.

You didn't answer the question if you ship to Australia.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 09:18 AM
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Son, Norway
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Making the holes in the corners gives more options, so that people can decide for them selves. Fixing the board to the case with screws, and have dampening between case and frame, might even reduce vibration since the mass will increase. Holes in the corners and standard spaced lugs on the sides would give the flexibility needed.

Fred
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Australia, VIC, Frankston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flarssen View Post
Making the holes in the corners gives more options, so that people can decide for them selves. Fixing the board to the case with screws, and have dampening between case and frame, might even reduce vibration since the mass will increase. Holes in the corners and standard spaced lugs on the sides would give the flexibility needed.

Fred
I second this, why don't you put the holes in the four corners anyway to match the KK2's and let people to decide for themselves how they mount them like Fred said, it's not going to make any difference if people decide not to use them so i think it makes more sense to give people more options.

And i'm guessing that seeing as its designed for the KK2 board that the majority of people looking into buying one would be mounting the board using the four corner holes anyway, i'd be using rubber grommets on top and underneath to secure the case anyway to help with vibrations.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleG View Post
You didn't answer the question if you ship to Australia.
Chris?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaccies View Post
I used the arrow hole for the 2 wires soldered at the top of the board to a JST connector connected to the power distribution board
I saw that already but mine are underneath now and i'll leave them there, i can make a small hole if necessary.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 08:34 AM
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Point taken. Okay, heres the plan.. Leave the holes as is, but add 4 holes matching the board mounting points. The only issue here is that the material in this area is going to be thin. Are you guys suggesting screws all the way through the board, and into the frame? Please clarify what you all would like. I have no problems doing a redesign, just can't have 50 different versions out there...

Supposed to be rainy here all weekend, so it sounds like a good time to redesign. Can someone please verify the hole spacing on the KK2?

Thanks


Also, yes, I will ship to Australia.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CH33ZEBURG3R View Post
I second this, why don't you put the holes in the four corners anyway to match the KK2's and let people to decide for themselves how they mount them like Fred said, it's not going to make any difference if people decide not to use them so i think it makes more sense to give people more options.

And i'm guessing that seeing as its designed for the KK2 board that the majority of people looking into buying one would be mounting the board using the four corner holes anyway, i'd be using rubber grommets on top and underneath to secure the case anyway to help with vibrations.



Chris?



I saw that already but mine are underneath now and i'll leave them there, i can make a small hole if necessary.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 10:42 AM
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Son, Norway
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It's standard, 45mm (CC) between holes, which should be 63.64mm (CC) diagonally. But as mentioned a couple of times, the same distance should be used between the existing screws. They can then be used to fix the box to frames like the one shown in the picture, where the only existing holes in the frame will be on the sides of the box.

What is the maximum distance between case bottom and board? I guess most people will just use spacers (nylon nut or similar) between case and board and fix the board with screws, either just to the case or also to the frame.

Fred
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Last edited by flarssen; Sep 27, 2012 at 10:58 AM.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 06:55 PM
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Australia, VIC, Frankston
Joined Jul 2012
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Yes it is 45mm between the holes and i get mine at 64mm diagonally.

I understand that you don't want to be having lots of different designs but just having the 4 extra holes in the current design isn't going to change anything really.

Also i can't really say how i would be mounting the case yet until i have one in front of me, and as Flarssen said how much room is there inside when the KK2 is in the case?

All i know is right now i have the KK2 mounted like this using rubber grommets -


So i'll be using a similar method for the case, (i think lol)
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 09:17 AM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
877 Posts
While Looking for KK2 3mm grommets I found your thread.

Is there any way of designing the case to include rubber grommets in the mounting holes used to secure it to the frame. This way, you have the board isolated inside the case on foam tape, the case isolated from the frame with rubber grommets and a clean build?

H
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