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Old Dec 04, 2012, 10:52 AM
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acesimmer's Avatar
United States, NV, Fernley
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Just do a few rivets around the window frames and hatches. That will be just enough to enhance without going nuts. I layed up hundreds on the T28 but then again I'm an idiot.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 12:38 PM
Scale Builder
United States, AZ, Litchfield Park
Joined Jul 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Morgan View Post
Rivets? I don't know, still considering. Problem is when you start rivets on this thing, where do you stop?
J
Most of the time I only do the rivets along the panel lines on my sport scale models which is probably about a third of what they should have. I also often go a bit bigger than scale diameter and space them out further. That still might be a LOT of rivets on a 119 though! Even a few goes a long way towards creating the illusion of aluminum structure but, as you say, at 1/12 scale they may not be necessary at all. Possibly just some careful weathering of the panels as, at a distance, rivet lines often just appear as dark streaks on the surface due to gathering dirt and grime.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 04:57 PM
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Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
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Sanding and removing the tape on the fuse is taking longer than putting the tape on. This primer eats up 400 grit sandpaper like it's lunch! Have one half done, one half to go. I doubt I finish it today. Three full days on just panel lines, sheeesh.
I will still have to burnish the fuse down with 400 used wet when I'm done to smooth it all out. But it will be very light and won't take long.

Chad, Ace,
Rivets? I may try a few around the cockpit area to see what it looks like. I have a hypo, same as Dave Platt uses, and like to use canopy glue( Formula 560) because it doesn't shrink and give that dimpled look like the typical wood glues.

I'm taking tomorrow off for some Xmas shopping, looking forward to it for a change.
Here's some pics.

J
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:10 PM
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Crystal River Fl.
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Its gona be awesome John!! Man, you must really be sick of doin panel lines if your looking forward to goin Christmas shopping!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:24 PM
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United States, CA, Palmdale
Joined Nov 2007
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John,

If you are using a quality 2K primer, wet sanding is the way to go, dry sanding blows! The paper won't clog and cuts much faster. You can do a small area at a time and wipe with a towel.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 06:42 PM
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Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
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Originally Posted by Alien_Tech View Post
John,

If you are using a quality 2K primer, wet sanding is the way to go, dry sanding blows! The paper won't clog and cuts much faster. You can do a small area at a time and wipe with a towel.
Yeah, I've been wet sanding. I do very little dry sanding. This primer still dulls 400 grit pretty quick. I switched to 320 and it's doing a little better.

That's right Walt! You know I need a break if shopping sounds good!

J
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 06:47 PM
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Stonewall, MB, Can
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Dry sanding? Did someone say dry sanding lacquer primer!?!?

IMHO wet sanding is the only way to go - safer (no dust), way faster and won't clog the paper.

To avoid a big wet slushy mess use one of those garden mister spray bottles to get your work area/surface damp/wet and a separate tub of water to occasionally clean the sanding block. I use a separate old bath towel to get the excess water off the sanding block before sanding again.

Don't wet sand down to balsa - wet balsa and paint edges don't mix - makes a mess of the edges and is a bugger to fix.
Don't wet sand water based paints! Seems obvious but I found out the hard way.....
Use a hair dryer to clean up any water from areas you don't want it in or dry it check your work.
Use a lightly dampened paper towel (hit it with the mister sprayer) to clean up the paint residue off the model.
400 grit wet will take 1 light coat of common lacquer primer off in about 5 passes so be careful. Don't push down on the sander - let the paper do the work.
320 grit may provide better adhesion for subsequent coats of paint - depending on what type of paint is next. If household latex is next I use 320. If lacquer I use 600. If using PVA for a mold I'll go progressively all the way up to 1200.


Awesome job as always J.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by J Morgan View Post
Yeah, I've been wet sanding. I do very little dry sanding. This primer still dulls 400 grit pretty quick. I switched to 320 and it's doing a little better.

That's right Walt! You know I need a break if shopping sounds good!

J
Beat me by 5 mins

What kind of primer dulls wet 400??? I've done entire planes without changing the paper? Maybe change primers
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:57 PM
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Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
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Thanks Hep,
All good rules to remember.
Primer dulling 400 ? It sure is. I was surprised too. It's Dupli-Color build up primer. I wanted to create the panel lines as fast as possible with as few as coats as I could. It works but man it wears the paper down. Makes 400 like 600 pretty quick. Going to the 320 helped and if it hadn't I was going to try 220. Desperate! But it did alright and I have just about 50% of the one flat side to go.
I do believe that the panel lines will look fairly good at least.

J
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 10:42 PM
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J i would think everyone following this thread have no doubt it will look good . But man does that look like a lot of work
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:03 AM
Now in TN!
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Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
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Make no mistake, it IS a lot of work Wilfor. But Im almost done!

J
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 12:01 PM
I don't do Normal
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Canada, NT, Yellowknife
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On the up side you will have big arms and your plane will look grate
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 05:29 PM
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Fishers, Indiana
Joined Oct 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Morgan View Post
Sanding and removing the tape on the fuse is taking longer than putting the tape on. This primer eats up 400 grit sandpaper like it's lunch! Have one half done, one half to go. I doubt I finish it today. Three full days on just panel lines, sheeesh.
I will still have to burnish the fuse down with 400 used wet when I'm done to smooth it all out. But it will be very light and won't take long.

Chad, Ace,
Rivets? I may try a few around the cockpit area to see what it looks like. I have a hypo, same as Dave Platt uses, and like to use canopy glue( Formula 560) because it doesn't shrink and give that dimpled look like the typical wood glues.

I'm taking tomorrow off for some Xmas shopping, looking forward to it for a change.
Here's some pics.

J
Unreal!!!!!!
Great job!

DAG
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 05:34 PM
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Baltimore MD USA
Joined Jan 2011
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Fantastic work J but I wouldn't expect anything less from you.

Bruce
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 09:35 PM
Now in TN!
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Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
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Pinky,
Like I told my wife, it took me a long time to get to my ideal weight. Now I just have to "tone" it up. This should help do that!

Thanks dag, Bruce

I did get a little work done this morning before I left. With any luck I might just be slinging some paint at it tomorrow.

J
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