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Old Jul 21, 2012, 04:13 PM
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Salt Lake City Utah
Joined Mar 2004
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Man, that is going to be a big bad boy. Progress is looking great!

--Stacker
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 04:54 PM
Now in TN!
J Morgan's Avatar
Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
23,601 Posts
Thanks guys,
Problem is when i try to put the structure in I guess I'm warping the doors. My friend said to put them back in the mold and glue the structure in. Hmmm? Wish I had thought of that but I went a different direction.
OK, third time might be a charm. I'm going to finish them in the morning and I'll post results. Keeping my fingers crossed, I think it will work, we'll see.
Ready to get them done and head onto the wing. It will be a ton of work but at least "friend" has sent me the cores and that's a ton of help.
Funny......... went into Fedex yesterday and asked them if they had a box for the fuse. Found out that it fit in a gold bag box with an inch to spare!

J
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 05:34 PM
No Hangar Queens!
Maryland
Joined May 2009
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So, after reading... is it possible you send the proper half to your friend in the mail? so you each have one half of both door sets. Just a thought.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 06:22 PM
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United States, IN, Granger
Joined Jan 2003
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Quote:
Problem is when i try to put the structure in I guess I'm warping the doors
I had that problem on my canopy to my V-22 when I put a cockpit window ribbing and dash in ... and I don't have the mold to put it in as it is a kit .... So next one I plan on forming the former/ribs a little smaller ... spot tack them with thick CA check the canopy to fuse fit ... then if it doesn't sit right,, you can cut the CA loose and try again .... once it fits .... then cover it good with thick fiberglass and the silcone PFM glue stuffhttp://www.hobby-lobby.com/p.f.m_adh..._2851_prd1.htm. I like this stuff for non main structure stuff ... although I know guys that use it on structure and swear by it ... seems to give a little on hard landings instead of fracturing like expoxy and glass does .
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 08:16 PM
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United States, TN, Blountville
Joined Oct 2002
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I think I would tack the bulkheads together on a flat surface with a pindrop of CA in a few spots. Shim one bulkhead thickness to keep that top side at the proper height an then glue the bulkhead to the door of the top side. When cured pull the shims and glue the other door to the bulkhead. Apply the glue from the inside on both joints and let it wick into the seam. Separate the bulkheads with a long length of dental floss. Then glue the edge that was inaccessible.

Don't use a glue like CA or very much when gluing to the bulkheads or you are liable to glue it all together. At least until the bulkheads and doors are separated.

Are you going to reinforce the edge that butts up to the fuse? Maybe with a bit of tow and fiberglass cloth and fiberglass chopped filler?
You are likely to face seam issues to the fuse if it is glued up separate from the fuse.
Will bondo or other filler give you the sharp seamline you are looking for with durability?
Hopefully it wont be an issue.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 08:47 PM
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United States, WI, Fond du Lac
Joined Sep 2008
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Here's what I would try on the doors: Tack glue the bulkheads together, maybe with some paper spacers to keep them a hair apart. That would be a good time to drill the holes through both.

Tape the shells together to keep the seams lined up and the doors from warping. Slide the bulkheads into the taped together door shells and position them along the seam. You could probably slip the tip of and exacto blade through the seam to line up the bulkheads. Glue the bulkheads in. When they are dry, remove the tape and slip an exacto blade between the bulkheads to split the glue tacks.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 09:12 PM
Now in TN!
J Morgan's Avatar
Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
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All good ideas guys. I have another:
I taped the doors to the rear of the fuse making sure it was squared up well with it. Then I marked a line 1/8" from the seam on both doors. Removed the doors and used a Dremel thin cut off wheel to remove that 1/8" of glass. So the doors are 1/8" narrower than they started.
Used a 1/" x48" balsa sheet to make two panels that were larger than the doors profile. Pinned these two panels together and placed them on the centerline of the rear fuse and snugged both doors up against them making sure that the doors still fit the rear and taped it all in place. Ran a bead of glue around each panel where it met the door but of course did not glue the two panels together. Then sanded the excess balsa off the panels, flush with the doors. Found of course that the doors weren't exactly matching up at the middle so I used Bondo to cover the whole seam and then sanded it back flush to the doors. Now I had doors that fit tight and still fit the rear fuse good. Removed the tape holding the doors to the fuse and the two doors split apart easily. So I have two doors that fit and snug up well to each.
Sort of shows you how many ways there are to skin a cat, doesn't it?
In the morning I will mark the structure on the panels, drill the holes and then cut out the excess balsa.
Pics tomorrow.

J
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 12:51 PM
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United States, IN, Granger
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Yep ,,, there is always more than one way to do the same operation and that is what is so cool about these forums ... you can see a few and hear of a few and take your pick that you would like to do ... and J I like the way you did this problem ... will store that in the back of my modelling to full head for future use
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 12:52 PM
Real Time Recon
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smith mt. lake VA.
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She's looking good
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 01:50 PM
Now in TN!
J Morgan's Avatar
Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
23,601 Posts
Thanks,
Had I been a little more careful when I glued the doors to the balsa I would have been able to use less bondo. I had one side dip down a little and was too late by the time I discovered it.
Not sure why I want the doors to open but it's just a cool thing I guess. I doubt if the Stingers ever opened them even partially in flight but if I'm wrong someone can correct me.

realtime,
Do you have any more pics of the armament? Especially the side and rear pics would be helpful. Not ready for them yet but just gaining ground on the research.

J
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 02:06 PM
Now in TN!
J Morgan's Avatar
Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
23,601 Posts
Decided it was time to attach the nose. The FG nose needs a backplate to retain it's shape, plus I want to be able to remove it for access. Here's how I did it.
I taped the canopy section that had been cut out back on. Glued a balsa plank onto the balsa front former. I only glued it in a circle around the middle so I could cut it out later to detach it. That balsa plank was taper sanded so the FG nose could slip onto it. Then I used a small strip of cardboard to spread a thin layer of white Gorilla glue inside the nose cone about 1/8" from the edge of the cone. Taped it on and let it set up. Once cured I removed the canopy section and drilled small holes from the inside, two for locator dowel and two for magnets positions. Detaching simply consisted of cutting a large roundish hole from the inside through both the front former and the nose backplate. After that I just mounted locator dowels and plastic tubing acceptors and the magnets in. Done.
Guess I better pull the wing cores out of the boxes and take a look at them now.

J
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 09:24 PM
Now in TN!
J Morgan's Avatar
Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
23,601 Posts
Got the wing cores out and am I glad my friend cut the wing joiner tube holes in the cores! Makes my life a lot easier.
I decided to get the cores skinned and used my usual method. Tape the skins together tightly, skim coat of brown Gorilla glue and lots of weight on the beds.
Have the whole wing, over 100", skinned in about 2 hours.
I'll check them after they have set overnight but the building will be interrupted for several days due to another trip up north. Be back on it next weekend and hope to make some really good progress on it then.

J
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 09:07 AM
Real Time Recon
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smith mt. lake VA.
Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Morgan View Post
Thanks,
Had I been a little more careful when I glued the doors to the balsa I would have been able to use less bondo. I had one side dip down a little and was too late by the time I discovered it.
Not sure why I want the doors to open but it's just a cool thing I guess. I doubt if the Stingers ever opened them even partially in flight but if I'm wrong someone can correct me.

realtime,
Do you have any more pics of the armament? Especially the side and rear pics would be helpful. Not ready for them yet but just gaining ground on the research.

J
I'll look and if I do I'll post em.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 09:39 AM
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United States, CO, Hotchkiss
Joined Oct 2006
1,586 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by J Morgan View Post
Thanks,
Had I been a little more careful when I glued the doors to the balsa I would have been able to use less bondo. I had one side dip down a little and was too late by the time I discovered it.
Not sure why I want the doors to open but it's just a cool thing I guess. I doubt if the Stingers ever opened them even partially in flight but if I'm wrong someone can correct me.

realtime,
Do you have any more pics of the armament? Especially the side and rear pics would be helpful. Not ready for them yet but just gaining ground on the research.

J
Does this photo help, J?
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