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Old Jul 11, 2012, 11:07 PM
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Fokker DII's Avatar
USA So. Cal.
Joined Sep 2010
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DLE dies in flight

I have been running my DLE 30 for about an hour of flight time 7 days a week for a couple months. I have changed Nothing, but yesterday it dead sticked on me for the first time in memory. It restarted in 2 flips and flew again with no problem until the 2nd flight when it cut out completely but refired twice in short order. Today it dead sticked again and I changed the spark plug. It had a small amount of carbon and was wet. A couple flights later it cut out again but refired. A few minutes later it dead sticked again.
Each time it quit I was running steady at about 1/2 throttle, as I mostly always do. It was about 5 minutes into the flight or so with about 10 minutes of fuel left. The engine sound does not change it abruptly quits.
My battery voltage checked 6.26V (regulator used @ 5.2V). Motor was not hot, No cowl. Nothing has been changed?
Any thoughts where I should start looking? CD ignitions as I understand either work or they are dead? True or no?
Since it is intermittant it probably will hide well from me.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 12:07 AM
Registered User
Riverside Calif.
Joined Apr 2008
102 Posts
Normally when I see an engine quit for no reason, and then restart, then quit again repeatably
in progressively shorter intervals, the engine has seized. Inspecting the piston at the exhaust
port is the easy way to find out.

But, Look for a simple cause first, or at least simple diagnostic tests first.

Questions:
1) how old is the gasoline?

2) is your premix castor oil?

3) did you replace the propeller before the engine quit the first time?

4) the first time the engine quit, did you do a sudden high G maneuver, vertical climb or loop?

5) is your vent line clear, or do you use a check valve on your vent line.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 12:26 AM
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GeetarJoe's Avatar
United States, LA, New Orleans
Joined Sep 2011
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Cap Quirk has some good points, but be sure also to check the functionality of the hall effect sensor on the front of the engine. one of the wires on the lead could be frayed inside of the insulating jacket. this intermittent connection can cause the engine to "simply quit" after having no other obvious issues, then restart only to quit again once the engine heats up or the wire lead moves or vibrates just right.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 01:01 AM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
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What plug are you running?
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 07:18 AM
<>< AKA W4BPS
USA, TN, Tullahoma
Joined Dec 2001
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screen

One simple check is to make sure the sceen in the carb is not clogged or nearly clogged. have a gas line filter? Just a thought.. Brian
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 08:20 AM
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United States, FL, Citrus Springs
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Fuel lines can swell up over the course of a few weeks. You might have something like that going on, maybe causing a leak?
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 08:24 AM
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The Northeast Kingdom, Vermont
Joined Jun 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterInVegas View Post
What plug are you running?
If it's the stock from the factory, DLE plug, then that's the best place to start. A new NGK CM-6 is in order
Pete
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 12:36 PM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fokker DII View Post
Today it dead sticked again and I changed the spark plug. It had a small amount of carbon and was wet.
Since the plug was wet, this shows that you are getting fuel but, no spark, and this indicates that it is an electrical problem. So either it is a sensor, bad wiring, or CDI unit.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Fokker DII View Post
CD ignitions as I understand either work or they are dead? True or no?
Not true, there could be a component that is failing because of either vibration or heat or even a combination of the two, also the parts I mentioned above could be failing. Some components have built in thermal protection. They shut off when they get hot and turn back on when they cool down. Have you tried running the engine on the ground at half throttle just like when your flying for a full tank of fuel?

Ray
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 12:58 PM
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USA, TX, Grapevine
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I would tend to agree that if the fuel system is working and the engine isn't sucking up air in certain maneuvers that you need to check out the CDI unit and its sensor. The hall effect sensor has been known to go bad on people before. But a loose or poor connection someplace in the wiring can do it too. Check the connectors and wiring out.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 05:23 PM
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Fokker DII's Avatar
USA So. Cal.
Joined Sep 2010
980 Posts
I Found IT.
The piston is not scuffed, the plug is a CM6, the fuel tubing is Viton and the screen is clean.
A tie wrap holding the Ignition module to the mount standoffs had cut through the blue insulation on the power wires and had broken the black wire. It could still make contact until vibration would seperate it ( I guess). One must be careful of the tiewrap placement so it does not chafe the wires. I need a new module. Is there anything better than the #3 Rcexel which is stock on the DLE 30.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 05:49 PM
<>< AKA W4BPS
USA, TN, Tullahoma
Joined Dec 2001
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Found it !!

Super.. Ain't life grand!! Rcxel is the thing to get. Brian

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fokker DII View Post
I Found IT.
The piston is not scuffed, the plug is a CM6, the fuel tubing is Viton and the screen is clean.
A tie wrap holding the Ignition module to the mount standoffs had cut through the blue insulation on the power wires and had broken the black wire. It could still make contact until vibration would seperate it ( I guess). One must be careful of the tiewrap placement so it does not chafe the wires. I need a new module. Is there anything better than the #3 Rcexel which is stock on the DLE 30.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 05:55 PM
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Wanna have a go at repairing the module ? Very likely repairable . Glad to help .
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 06:07 PM
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United States, FL, Citrus Springs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Cee View Post
Wanna have a go at repairing the module ? Very likely repairable . Glad to help .
Good plan! Send it to Gary so he can fix it and you'll have a spare? Meanwhile, don't get a number 3 (DLE30) or 4 (DLE20) get one for a DLE 55, or about anything that has the right spark plug boot to fit your CM-6. Other than the boot, they're interchangeable...
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 06:16 PM
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Dana, Indiana
Joined Jan 2007
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I yanked the wire out of my ignition (DLE30) in an abrupt encounter with the ground, replaced it with a "standard" RCXcel ignition I had bought for a DLE55. The engine runs a lot better, midrange is better and smoother acceleration. Don't get the 30cc version if you get a new one!
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 09:15 PM
Gas Only
Fokker DII's Avatar
USA So. Cal.
Joined Sep 2010
980 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitewolf View Post
I yanked the wire out of my ignition (DLE30) in an abrupt encounter with the ground, replaced it with a "standard" RCXcel ignition I had bought for a DLE55. The engine runs a lot better, midrange is better and smoother acceleration. Don't get the 30cc version if you get a new one!
I ordered a standsrd CM6 boot single cylinder module from RCExel.
Yep, I would like to get this one repaired for a spare. Does Gary Cee do them? If so PM me.
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