Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 09:16 PM
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Mine is the newer version with the extra wood. I have Eflite retracts with styrene tubes ove the wire struts to give it a nicer look, don't mess with struts in a model this size they all suck. I'm running a single 4s. 5000 mah pack feeding 2500 mah per fan, I used hs 225mg's on the stabs and hs 65's on the ailerons and an hs 55 on the nose gear, I used the scale cockpit but cut out some of the bottom to make room for the battery.

Building lite just takes alot of planning, this is the 4th pro design / hk jet that I have built and you get them figured out and find ways to save weight. I did lighten up the vertical stabs quite a bit by removing the foam and cutting out the heavy glass bottoms.

You will be fine at 7lbs, keep the cg a bit nose heavy for the first few flights and don't yank and bank it and youll be fine!

You will want more runway to fly it, I'd say 400' bare minimum.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 09:26 PM
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Whalley, I wouldn't worry about 7 lbs all that much, I have a custom Falcon 25 with twin 70mm that is a joy to fly at 6 lbs that uses 2- 3300 4 cells per flight. It only has about 1600-1700 watts input and flies very well with plenty of power/ decent speed. I have main eflite retracts but the nose is a fixed pinned eflite retract and I'm still seeing about 120 mph. Good luck with your F-22, I'm really thinking about doing one as my next twin.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bri6672 View Post
Mine is the newer version with the extra wood. I have Eflite retracts with styrene tubes ove the wire struts to give it a nicer look, don't mess with struts in a model this size they all suck. I'm running a single 4s. 5000 mah pack feeding 2500 mah per fan, I used hs 225mg's on the stabs and hs 65's on the ailerons and an hs 55 on the nose gear, I used the scale cockpit but cut out some of the bottom to make room for the battery.

Building lite just takes alot of planning, this is the 4th pro design / hk jet that I have built and you get them figured out and find ways to save weight. I did lighten up the vertical stabs quite a bit by removing the foam and cutting out the heavy glass bottoms.

You will be fine at 7lbs, keep the cg a bit nose heavy for the first few flights and don't yank and bank it and youll be fine!

You will want more runway to fly it, I'd say 400' bare minimum.
Can u post pictures, esc placement battery placement etc. thanks.
I'm almost done with mines. I have lander retracts 10 blade fans. 28-55 3200 kv.
I want to run a single 4s.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 12:26 AM
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I have a few sets of suspension struts of different shapes and sizes. I would like to try cutting in some gear doors with some spring hinges and put on some nice struts. The RcLanders are too big and heavy but the wheel size would be good on grass, The Parkflier's seem too long and the ride height would be ridiculously tall. The HK struts look really nice but the dual wheels for the mains would have to swapped out.
I have some threaded rod that I could thread into the strut axle and then give them a slight bend to keep the wheels squared up nicely to the ground. The Eflite struts can be cut down and be used as posts with the retracts.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 12:07 PM
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The angle these wheels are sitting isn't good. I might try to bend some rod and straighten them out.

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Old Jul 29, 2012, 05:33 PM
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So I finally got some capacitors and I am soldering them into the battery leads as they exit the thrust tubes. The speed controllers are mounted inside.

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Old Jul 29, 2012, 05:55 PM
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Where are you going to fly this?
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 07:18 PM
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Where are you going to fly this?
That is the big question and one that hasn't been answered yet. Locations are still being scouted as we speak. Where would you fly it, Skyhawk?
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 07:20 PM
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I will have to do some more bench testing and the check the results with the Castle links to see how well the capacitors are working and if I need more.
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 10:31 PM
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It's looking like a fat monster and it is scarey one.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 12:23 AM
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Here are some pics of mine, I started adding details so she will be ready for the big jolt.

In the pics you can see the simple mechanical gear doors, panel lines and decals, esc's in the thrust tubes....

I still need to airbrush a bit of weathering on the panel lines and add some dulcote.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Mannyman535 View Post
Can u post pictures, esc placement battery placement etc. thanks.
I'm almost done with mines. I have lander retracts 10 blade fans. 28-55 3200 kv.
I want to run a single 4s.

Esc's are in one of the above pictures, I will take a pic of my battery tray and placment for a single battery setup.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 01:22 AM
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Awesome, thanks for posting those. The more people show the more I want to see. I really like how your gear doors turned out. I would be very interested in seeing how you rigged them to operate. With your esc in the TT, have you had any problems with longer battery leads? Caps?
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 09:52 AM
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The gear doors use a piece of elastic to keep them sprung open and then a little trip wire that the gear hits to close them.

You know I should have caps on it, on all my big 10-12s jets I am very diligent about using them and checking the data. I just don't put as much effort into the small jets like this. The cap packs are way overkill for these little esc's, next time just go to digikey and order some caps of similar spec to the ones on your esc, it will be about $1 per cap and you can solder them in and save space. Don't get me wrong the cap packs from CC are nice and I have one but $20 each for a little jet is crazy.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 03:55 PM
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So I got an opportunity to do some bench testing without pissing off the neighbors, waking up the baby, irritating my wife or scaring the neighbors dog. (previous tests had been very loud and for extended durations of time) My test today was to see how well adding capacitors in the battery leads would fare. I would look at the data on my castle link viewer to see if the temperatures remained low and if the motor output is reasonable.
I had powered up both controllers with my new extended leads and capacitors installed but one of the fans was not coming up. It wouldn't beep like normal operating procedures and had beeping in a different manner. The fan would only stutter a bit and then shutdown and one of the 5.5mm connectors on my battery leads kept disconnecting with the weight of the cables so I decided to only test one at a time. With only my left controller/ fan powered I begun ramping up the throttle and I was getting close to 50 amps when it crapped out and released a plume of foul smelling smoke. I was just using my infra red temperature gun on the controller when this happened. The temps were not high and everything was looking good.
When I received my castle link I had to reconnect the red wire on the throttle channel of the controller in order to power it up from the laptop. Then I used it to read the factory data looking through the viewer and noticed an update was available for the Ice Lites. I updated both units, erased the factory data and shut it all down until I had installed the capacitor packs and finished constructing my extended leads.
At this point I am rather stumped by the outcome and I am probably also out of pocket for the burnt up speed controller. I sent a message to Castle, Steve Rogers with attached photos of the wiring and the data readout from the castle link. Hopefully someone can shed some light and let me know what went wrong.
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