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Old Jul 10, 2012, 10:28 PM
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I know my raptor is gonna be fast. Maybe even funjet fast in way that it will scream by at warp speeds and I will giggle from behind the controls like a raver on ecstasy with sheer joy. I even bought the strongest servos I could find that would still fit. I made sure they were digital high torque servos because I wanted precision so badly. (I had an F18 90mm with over nine servos of mixed types and electric retracts and one day I was flying around with my flaps down and it fail on me and crash because the bec was undersized and flying around with the flaps down strained the little bec.) This time I will use the Castle Pro 20A bec and make bloody well sure that won't happen again. The servos must stand up to the G forces of this plane. And with the all moving elevators and the sloppy weak factory construction and cheap ez connectors I had to really get this right the first time. As mentioned I beefed up the elevators with high torque servos and epoxied the slop out of the L bends and crafted carbon fibre pushrods elimating all flex and twisting.
So with everything dry fitted into place and my programming of the Dx8 completed I powered up the Raptor for the very first time. With a snap of the battery leads and beeping of the Esc's I was really getting jacked up now. I wiggled my control surfaces as in a preflight check and slowly ramped up the throttle. No more than 10% in I noticed it was squealing badly. Doh!! My fans had reversed rotation. No big deal as everything was still accessible. I quickly swapped them around and tried again. Now the fans significantly quieter I proceeded further into the throttle band. At 25% things were looking good. Noise seemed normal, air flowing in the right direction and I still had a ways to go.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mannyman535 View Post
Im building one also, are u going to use retacts? I'm using twin cs10 blades with
2855 3200kv on 2 4s 4000 packs.
So far the fans and retracts are installed. In stuck on where to put the esc's
Sorry Manny I didn't want to keep you in suspense when you need the information now. Why don't you pm me instead?
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Nice Job Whalley, looking great.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torque roll View Post
This is awesome, man! Keep up the progress.

Just curious, are you going to experiment with mixing the aileron and elevator for super manuverability? It sure would be a lot easier and safer than thrust vectoring.
Yes I found a video on YouTube that's on my favorites list* that shows the Dx6i programming on a similar raptor. I borrowed from that and wrote similarly into my dx8. Im using my ar8000 rx and have every servo on their own channel respectively. This way I have all my typical ailerons, elevators and rudder with the recommended rates and with a flip of the flight mode switch I go into ailerons with flaperons capability. I figure this would be helpful for slowing her down and floating in for a smooth landing. To make this process smoother I wanted to also have tailerons that will move with aileron input. When flaps are deployed they still can move like ailerons but now the elevators help roll too.


*subscribe to whalleyb0y on YouTube and you will see my Rc fun favorites list and my upcoming videos will also be posted on my channel. "Just Plane Nutz"
omg I sound like Pete now :-P
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 10:47 PM
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Here is the video with the programming I aspired for. Credit to raitheslacker on this video.

Sapac F22 Elevator Aileron Flap mixing (1 min 18 sec)
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 12:11 AM
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Here I am testing the dx8 settings for the mixes, rates , expos, flaps etc

Whalleyb0y's raptor (servo mix and rates testing) (0 min 25 sec)


And then I power up the esc's

First start up of whalleyb0y's raptor (0 min 22 sec)


So anyways I got the IR gun out and I am reading temps...

I am nowhere near half throttle and I notice the temperatures are climbing fast. Suddenly one of the speed controllers shuts down...

Whalleyb0y's raptor electrical failure (1 min 57 sec)
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 01:43 PM
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I here those same 3 beeps on my cc80, but only pulling 60amp's!!!!
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 02:09 PM
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Yea check your castle manual, those beeps are not to be confused with cell count recognition. The orange and red LEDs will correspond with the beeps and upon Esc failure/ shutdown they will give you error codes. Sometimes it isn't overheating related.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 02:49 PM
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United States, NC, Wilmington
Joined Mar 2011
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Whalley,
You definitely will get a lot more thrust with tubes behind your fan..not sure if you are putting these in or not,,just a recommendation...by dropping the exit to 85% fsa you will get a lot more speed out of her as well...
Take care and looking great so far...........chris
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hover or die View Post
Whalley,
You definitely will get a lot more thrust with tubes behind your fan..not sure if you are putting these in or not,,just a recommendation...by dropping the exit to 85% fsa you will get a lot more speed out of her as well...
Take care and looking great so far...........chris
The kit comes with tube material and a template for cutting that will provide a 20% reduction. This is the factory design for this plane so I trust it is whats best. So far in the blog I have only dryfitted the components but in real time the thrust tubes have been installed. My twitter account for whalleyb0y posts my pictures in real time as they happen. Unfortunately I have had to move my blog and rewrite it three times and now its behind. Lol but thanks for the advice! I don't like how the tubes extend beyond the fuse, I have been pondering the idea of trimming them to fit the jagged edges in the scale detail. This may not make a difference or it may increase the reduction to above 20% Does anyone see a reason why I should not cut the tubes to match the scale detail?
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 04:14 PM
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I should also mention that I anticipate this bird is gonna be plenty fast. The included template for the TT has a reduction that is 80% fsa. However speed is not my goal. My research indicates that a larger exit will provide more thrust which would make the raptor more stable, agile and perhaps better high alpha capabilities?? Thats the goal. If anyone has input on this I would love to hear it.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 09:41 PM
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After the esc shutdown and the toning of the 6 beeps I figured I better look into reasons why. The motors had been reaching 2/3 of the throttle range at a slow ramp up. Just after shutdown the IR gun read at the caps on the esc and rear of the motors between 184 - 200. My first reaction was to quickly throw the Turnigy 120A Deluxe speed controller and run them in the same scenario. Moments later I was getting the same results at slightly higher temperatures with the alternate rig.
I was rather stumped at this point and begun looking cooling options. I consulted with the LHS's in my area and everyone said "you gotta have airflow across the esc's and batteries!". Flip flop said that he uses a hood scoop on the front and the rear of the jet to create his airflow needed. I thought about maybe using 9/16" poly tubing and inserting the ends into the thrust tubes behind the fans diverting some airflow into the esc's. Wouldn't these ideas of cooling essentially make the jet draggy in flight?
I also wanted to ask Castle Creations if this overheating had anything to do with the PWM or any of the factory settings of the speed controllers. The only setting I changed was when selected 6s operation. Steve Rogers responded on behalf of CC support and he suggested:

"Hi whalleyb0y,
I would recommend lengthening the battery wires rather than the motor wires as the esc reads certain voltages back from the motor for proper operation and as we know voltage drops over length (may not be a factor here but...).
The escís should not shut down on over temp till around 200 def F. One thing that would help is since the escís have data logging can you clear the data logger so we have fresh data & do a run up. Then download the logged data, once its open in the Graph Viewer do File>Save as & then email me the .csv file that is generated.
By doing this I can open the file in my graph viewer & maybe see if I can see what is going on.
It might not be a bad idea to do the same thing when the esc is connected to Castle Link & send me the .dat settings file so I can see what settings you have on the escís
(is this happening on both of them??)

Of coarse this requires Castle Link which I hope you are using & if not may be difficult to trouble shoot."

I immediately sent out my vouchers that came with the Ice Lites for the free pc links. Once I get the data files then I will do as instructed.
In the meantime I will relocate my speed controllers into the TT's behind the motors and try another bench test.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 10:38 PM
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By this point I was already sanding the contact surfaces of the already assembled wings and rudder stabs and preparing to epoxy everything into place. The dry fitting on those looked reasonably good and I felt pretty confident epoxying those into place. The spars and everything pretty straight forward even for a noob.

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I also masked off and used a bit light filler to smooth out the gaps and make the vertical stabs seamless. A little touch up paint on that.

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I cut out some paper templates of cooling louvres I am considering cutting into the intakes.

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Slapped a little black paint over the template so that I had a line to follow when using my dremel disc.

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Now the idea with these is that I am thinking the location of the slits being just on front of the intakes like this will provide some cooling for the lipo packs and bec by naturally drawing air out of the fuse past the batteries through these slits. The fans will naturally pull air from the battery through these louvres. This would hopefully not make the plane any more draggy and still kinda retaining the lines of the Raptor while providing the cooling. I suppose it was enevitable. As much as I wanted to not change the look of this plane I was going to have to had cooling methods sooner or later.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 10:47 PM
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Getting brave now I set forth to assemble the thrust tubes and properly mounting the fans.

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I have access to industrial duct tape. A real heavy duty sealing adhesive light weight tape with a foil backing. The TT where cut out of some cf paper and rolled into cones using the templates 20cm long and taped into place. I rolled out a thin snake in some duct seal putty and wrapped the front edge of the fans. This will ensure I nice tight snug fit into the fiberglass ducts and be absolutely airtight. The location of the elevator servos and linkage just barely makes contact with the side of the TT's.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 11:55 PM
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When I inquired about the capacitor banks to Steve Rogers at Castle Creations, I asked him if I moved my esc's to behind fans in the thrust tube I would have to extend their battery leads to 2' long to reach the batteries at the front of the fuse. I thought this was a big no no in practice? We discussed the idea about adding capacitors to the leads to compensate for the length. I will need a capacitor bank for every 8" of wire equating to 4 banks total with both battery leads.

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...-cap-pack.html

I'm thinking this will help with the cooling too if I cam maximize the efficiency of this rig, keepings currents lower. Apparently there could be enough inductance in the battery leads to throw off the power factor of these motors. If there was a line loss as heat these capacitors will certainly minimize the ripple voltage and reduce the losses as it enters the speed controllers.
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