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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:01 PM
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Build Log
whalleyB0Y's First Build (HK F22 Raptor Twin 70mm EDF)

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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:01 PM
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This blog had originally started in the HobbyKing forums but due to complexity of uploading pictures from my ipad I will post my blog in RCgroups instead.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:03 PM
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I had my heart set on the raptor for ages but had mostly been unsure of how to approach it and what make to buy. I dreamt of building a "Hangar Queen", a prize worthy of being showcased and adored in my garage. I felt nothing looked better than the ProDesign fiberglass model at HobbyKing and I couldn't seem to make contact with Pete to send me a kit version of his Banana foamie version for which I could insert my own gear into so I chose the latter. I had drawn my research from the other available blogs and rapidly started plannin the pieces to my build. I manically sifted through reviews, websites and blogs mining the info I needed to make the best educated guess of what I might need. My head was swimming with info about thrust, wing loading, voltage options and fans. I decided it will have to get off the ground on its own accord, so it will need retracts. I wanted this plane to have alot of thrust to pull out of any high alpha manuever that goes bad, so I will need a hefty powerplant. I also wanted heaps of power to get off the ground in a hurry or to abort any awkward landings I might do. Goodies like thrust vectoring, telemetry, lighting and gps mapping are all treats I will be looking into as I go along.

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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:03 PM
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I had already decided on a 6s setup and I also liked WeMoTeC fans because I've used them before. I ordered in a pair of fans and a pair of 22.2V 2950kv 4mm motors from EDFhobbies.com. This will surely give me the power I was looking for at a lower amperage. HobbyKing's raptor description boasts of a large space in the plane to fit batteries. I also took recommendation on the servos required from Lolzer's build blog. I got the strongest mini digital servos I could find for the all moving elevators.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:04 PM
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The last parcel to arrive was the big one!! It arrived two weeks after it was dispatched from the warehouse in Hong Kong. I followed numerous updates on my shipment status as it was transferred from one building to another, from one department to another and then finally on a plane. That was the last update. I have to comment on how well the plane was packed. They used generous amounts of bubble wrap and foam blocks and everything was carefully placed into cartons and then into a big box. The big box was inserted into a bigger box which would be taking all the courier abuse. Nothing was broken, chipped or damaged and everything appeared to be how it was described. Except for the elevator assembly block. <br />
At first I was worried that these were missing from the contents and I knew I would never get customer service to replace them. Upon further expecting I noticed the plane construction had varied slightly in the images from other people's blog. It became apparent that I had received a newer version and several improvements had been made to the design and in particular the elevator assembly blocks. These were installed at the factory into the tail of the fuselage and it suddenly seemed possible to install the elevators without having to cut openings to access the set screws. I was pleased by this as it meant that I didn't need to damage the finish and it looked easier to put together than the other previous versions. It should be noted that there were no parts included by which to connect an elevator control horn to a pushrod from the servo arm. I would have to try and devise a method for this. I made some carbon fiber pushrods with strong rigid metal clevises. The supplied ez-connectors amd pushrods are pure crap and were flexing and twisting with very little pressure. I found 2mm collars with two set screws on either end. One would be removed to fit a nylon connector and then tightened against the 2mm elevator rod with the other set screw. <br />
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Assembly of the elevators could easily be a blog on their own. This might very well be the toughest part of the whole build. All moving elevators would have to be very rigid and reliable in all ways. This was my first crack at doing a build like this and I didn't want to take any chances. I proceeded very slowly and carefully trying different things. I kept having to refine my ideas because there was so much slop in the elevators. Lolzer's maiden flight put the fear of sloppy elevators into me. Several people had written about having to perform surgery on the elevators themselves because the L-bend of the 2mm rod into the wing would also have slop. These could fail midair when you need them most. I didn't notice any slop with mine but I didn't trust it either. I also took the scalpel to them and cut out the L-bend using Lolzer's magnet method.<br />
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Using epoxy steel compound I anchored the L-bends into the elevators again. And I was glad I did because now that all the slop was removed these felt so much stronger now. I feel confident that these elevators will not fail in this part when I do my first controlled loop. I have light filler, pink dap which I use to smooth out the channels dug. I also mixed some acrylic paint to match the original finish the best I could. Once everything was back together again I started to work on mounting the elevator servos.<br />
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:37 PM
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The WeMoTeC fans could not fit any better than this. They will be the least of my worries for now.

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This is the supplied landing gear which fits snug on the mounting rails in the fuse. I was planning on using retracts with nice suspension struts and gear doors but for all testing purposes and for the maiden I will use what's provided and avoid damaging a set of costly struts. I would like a chance to trim the flight surfaces and to test my programming of flaperons and elevons before putting on the bling. The supplied nose gear is also similar in construction except for the attachment of a nylon steering arm for the steering servo connection.

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This wiring diagram I borrowed from somewhere so that I may better understand the wiring and plan the locations of the components. I have since changed things a little by using a Castle Pro 20A bec and having two battery packs instead. I intended on using a 6s 5000mAh 40c pack but couldn't squeeze it into the cavity inside the fuse. I also didn't like the battery leads on it either figuring the twin power plant will cook it instantly.

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I decided to change things up a bit and to start work on the detailed canopy. I ordered the cockpit and pilot as extra but didn't realize the work involved to get them all to fit. The raptor comes with fiberglass trim to surround the lexan canopy but it requires trimming with a dremel in order for the lexan to fit into. And if you want to insert the pilot and cockpit you will need to cut away even more leaving you with a very delicate ring of fiberglass that slips over the clear canopy. These combined can then be adhered to the cockpit with the pilot secured snug into the seat.

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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:40 PM
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Build

Im building one also, are u going to use retacts? I'm using twin cs10 blades with
2855 3200kv on 2 4s 4000 packs.
So far the fans and retracts are installed. In stuck on where to put the esc's
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:53 PM
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I turned my attention to the wings and aileron assembly. Nothing tricky here, just cutting out the film that covers the servo pockets and inserting a servo that fits. I ordered Hitec submicro servos of the high torque variety but couldn't get the supplied wood covers to fit with them inserted. I fussed with other servos and eventually settled on the Hitec flat wing servos.

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I think it is worth mentioning that the finish very finish I had strived to protect is also crap. You sneeze on it or look at it the wrong way and it will flake apart. Be prepared to reprint or find a matching touch up paint. With that being said do even use low tack painters tape. I used it when cutting the film and ended up creating this mess...

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Just look at the shine of the ecote film. You just know the paint won't stick to that as it is.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:55 PM
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Lol Hi Manny, you got posted mid way though my postings. I was just getting to the juicy bits that you are inquiring about. I just finished locating my Esc's but didn't want to blow the punch line. I will be posted them quick!
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:59 PM
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Starting to look like something now! I enjoyed a few beers while staring at the build so far...

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The supplied magnets are now inserted into the fan cover and epoxied into place with epoxy steel. This can be found at any hardware store. The kit comes with four larger earth magnets for the fan cover and two smaller ones for the canopy cover. I will be adding more to the canopy to compensate for the added weight of the detailed canopy insert.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 07:07 PM
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I ordered these Turnigy Esc's before I even received the raptor kit. In retrospect I should have waited because these are huge monsters of an Esc and I couldn't get them to fit too well. I also found them to be heavy. I liked how Lolzer's were mounted to the fan cover but I wanted to retain the lines of the jet without carving into the body any more than I have too. I also researched from multiple sources that extending the motor leads of an esc is better than the battery leads. (this will really dictate where the esc goes) Not to mention that these were not as cosmetic as Lolzer's. I will explain more on this later.

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I made some foam lipo mockups with supplied manufacturer dimensions. I had some options and wasn't going to order blindly without making sure what would fit. I want a 22.2v power supply of at least 5000mAh capacity. I could use a single 6s, two 6s with less capacity or two 3s wired in series each of 5000 mAh. The third option requires the least amount of space and weight. But with two Esc's I figured two 6s would be best for wiring reasons. The currents passing through the battery leads is going to be huge and to use a series wiring job might be rough. I also have other 6s planes that could share the batts.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 07:24 PM
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I spent a lot of time looking at other blogs trying to determine where and how to make everything fit and run efficiently. I must reiterate that I am a noob making noob mistakes but I try very hard to do my research first. I made mistakes all through the build and I hoped to have caught myself in time. Bear with me fumbling through my first build blog as I reveal the events in the order they happened.
So with the idea of keeping battery leads short I was left with using flipflop's build blog idea of mounting the Esc's inside the fuse. The Turnigy Deluxe Esc is way too big for this so they are now up for sale. (pm me if you want these)

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I turned around and went straight to the LHS and bought a pair of Castle Creations Ice Lite 100A Esc's because they were compact, lightweight, offered better battery options, had data logging capabilities and the burst rating exceeded my needs. With the CC bec soldered in I figured I could bundle the components together and slide them all into the fuse through the canopy hatch towards the rear. It would look like this but inside the space between the intakes.

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So far so good, these WILL fit with my foam battery mockups stuffed inside too! I couldn't be anymore pleased because I didn't have to hack up the plane body and jeopardize the sexy lines of this fine plane.

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Here the motor leads come through an opening in the frame. I am just dry fitting everything into place before committing to glue or cutting out the thrust tubes and such.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 07:25 PM
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I bet some people are noticing the error in my ways so far. Have a good chuckle folks as I practice the art of self humility.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 07:34 PM
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So before I glue and screw everything down I want to do some bench testing of my components in the way I think they should be wired. I am also thinking in my noob brain that because I oversized the motors, Esc's, C rating of the batteries and went 6s instead of 4s to keep currents low I will be able to fly this plane on less than half throttle. I should never need to max out the Esc's, fans and motors to be able to go fast and hard and fly with such confidence and agility. And because of this I thought that nothing will overheat during the 5 expected minutes of flying or even warrant the need for any cooling measures. In 5 minutes my timer will beep and I will land my plane like a hero and everything might be warm but not too hot... So armed with my wattmeter and infra red heat gun I set out to begin my bench tests. Very quickly I realized I couldn't be any more wrong in this theory of over sizing the components and I also realized my entire layout will have to change drastically...
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 08:13 PM
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Joined Oct 2011
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This is awesome, man! Keep up the progress. Just make sure you keep the weight down. All the thrust in the world won't do anything if she's a brick. (Just ask the guys with the projet f4 phantom)

Just curious, are you going to experiment with mixing the aileron and elevator for super manuverability? It sure would be a lot easier and safer than thrust vectoring.
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