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Old Jul 11, 2012, 08:53 AM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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Apex, the big mod replaces a rather weak voltage doubler by a much more beefy linear regulator. It also splits the power consumed by the logic board between 3 componants where before both the processor as well as the fet drivers where powered through the same weak part. The result is a much safer and stronger ESC. Also you will find the stock logic board to get very hot just sitting there with the pack connected, motor not running. After this mod it will no longer do that. You can also ''fix'' that heat problem by adding cooling elements but really it does not fix the problem, it mearely hides it.

It doesn't really matter how many amps you are pulling, without the big mod you risk a fire on 5S even specially 6S. They choose to have this voltage doubler setup so that the ESC would work from a wide voltage range, unfortionately the componants they used are to weak. Castle should never have given this ESC a rating up to 6S but stuck with 4S max.

I have personally modified more then 200 of these logic boards and many happy pilots reporting good results.

They are also no longer made so if you burn it, you waste what currently is the most powerfull / cheap controller on the market.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 01:07 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Palm Beach County, Fl.
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Jē, I found and ordered the parts for the job, should I need any esc work direction, may I PM you?
Arctic, looks like #2 large will be framed and skined, so keep a eye out.
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Old Jul 11, 2012, 01:17 PM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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For sure!
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 09:17 AM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Parts were on the door step in 1.5 days from Digikey in Minnesota 70mi from the Canadian border to South Florida, WOW!
JJ I got a rude awakening on how small these parts are, I used to repair endoscopic ccd video equip wiring, hubs etc w/40agw coaxial under a scope all day.

What do you think of using a Zona saw to cut through the trace under the first layer?
Also too, how do i know the correct direction on the tiny brick caps?

Question on adding additional equal or like Capacitors on a stock esc. Would an extra cap or two help prolong the life of an ESC if piggy backed onto the existing caps and tied into the + & - power leads for ripple or surge from load? I ask because of my nephiew's big boom base car system uses a giant inline cap to smooth the 4000 watt amplifier's voltage needs.

I may need to change the title on the thread now, any suggestions?
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 10:04 AM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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Check the pictures on the F5B UK website.

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Old Jul 14, 2012, 09:44 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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JJ, does this get eliminated and is it bridged? Hard to tell on the site and I'm half blind
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 02:57 AM
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That resistor is removed and instead of it gets bridged. I usually use just a few strands of copper, pulled from a thicker wire.

Gerben
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 01:15 PM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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Correct
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 06:53 AM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Equipment questions

Ok, so now I have access to a scope, please tell me who carries a nice set of normally closed micro tweezers. Also do you pre flux etc on micro soldering? I made a solder vacuum from an old 6oz syringe and a spring, and got a hold of a #5 lens hood.
micro parts or mcmastercarr used to carry a diamond cutter wheel bit that was about 4mm dia and .005 thick but I can't fint it anymore, any clues? twenty questions, I know but I'll make you proud Joe.
Tom
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 07:11 AM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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Tom, i don't use any special tools at all. No scope, lens, micro tweezers or flux.

Just; dremel with cutoff disc to remove old componants, a small 40W soldering iron (not even temp controlled) and a pointy knife.

I use the tip of the knife to hold the new componants in place. I use normal lead free resin core solder (just normal stuff, not even the old leaded stuff that some people swear by). Adding new solder to the tip of the iron moments before soldering gives better results. Holding the tip on the leg you want to solder and adding some fresh solder also works really well but you have to be carefull not to add to much solder.

Flux usually leads to corrosion.

As George said, componants are cheap and replaceable, the PCB isn't replaceable. So just cut the old parts off and then clean up with some fresh solder. This gives the least stress on the tracks.

My advantage, i've done it 200+ times.

Good luck!
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 08:48 AM
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I tend to cut the legs off the components which are to be removed with a sharp x-acto knife, works pretty well.
Use a 40W soldering iron for the parts which are soldered to ground (they need more heat to remove and for new ones to solder on), and a soldering station with small tip for smaller parts like the resistor and the 8-legged chip.
The cut is made with a regular dremel disc just as Joe does, take it easy and it will become clear as you go.

Be carefull when clamping the board to hold it down, to not damage the little resistors on the board when clamping it up.

Gerben
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmouris View Post
Tom, i don't use any special tools at all. No scope, lens, micro tweezers or flux.

Just; dremel with cutoff disc to remove old componants, a small 40W soldering iron (not even temp controlled) and a pointy knife.

I use the tip of the knife to hold the new componants in place. I use normal lead free resin core solder (just normal stuff, not even the old leaded stuff that some people swear by). Adding new solder to the tip of the iron moments before soldering gives better results. Holding the tip on the leg you want to solder and adding some fresh solder also works really well but you have to be carefull not to add to much solder.

Flux usually leads to corrosion.

As George said, componants are cheap and replaceable, the PCB isn't replaceable. So just cut the old parts off and then clean up with some fresh solder. This gives the least stress on the tracks.

My advantage, i've done it 200+ times.

Good luck!
Lead free solder joints will eventually fail, they have never found an alloying compound that will stabilize tin completely like lead does. The lead free solders may not suffer tin blight and whiskering as badly as pure tin, but they all suffer from it to a certain degree. There is a reason why the EU makes an exception for lead solder in aerospace. They don't want to have to tell the public that a plane fell out of the sky because a lead free solder joint grew a whisker and shorted something out. People might start asking uncomfortable questions about lead free solder use elsewhere.
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 07:36 AM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
Lead free solder joints will eventually fail, they have never found an alloying compound that will stabilize tin completely like lead does. The lead free solders may not suffer tin blight and whiskering as badly as pure tin, but they all suffer from it to a certain degree. There is a reason why the EU makes an exception for lead solder in aerospace. They don't want to have to tell the public that a plane fell out of the sky because a lead free solder joint grew a whisker and shorted something out. People might start asking uncomfortable questions about lead free solder use elsewhere.
Sounds great but i just use what they have in store locally. IE Maplins, lead free silver solder, 4% Ag, 95.5% Sn and 0.5% Cu. Works fine.
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 03:40 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Cool factor!

CC125/ ARC 36-65-1, 2100watts @108 amps + - 7 x 6 28800 rpm to start.
JJ and all, this is what I came up with for the ultimate cooling factor. Not done any mods to this controler, yet...
a sardine can gave me the idea to secure the esc.
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Old Aug 03, 2012, 05:10 AM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
jjmouris's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
CC125/ ARC 36-65-1, 2100watts @108 amps + - 7 x 6 28800 rpm to start.
JJ and all, this is what I came up with for the ultimate cooling factor. Not done any mods to this controler, yet...
a sardine can gave me the idea to secure the esc.
That's great but actually you want to keep the logic board cold if you haven't done the mod yet. Infact, i found that even just turning the ESC upside down effects how fast the logic board craps out on you.

It's not a question of if, just a question of when it will burn.

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