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Old Aug 16, 2012, 11:19 AM
Rather be flying
tsudduth's Avatar
United States, TX, Midland
Joined Feb 2009
264 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskers View Post
Thanks for the information on racing and the valuable links.
Personally I'll need to feel I can tune and sail a boat reasonably well before I think about racing.
The quickest way to get your boat tuned is to hang around those sailors that race. As a general rule, most are very happy to help you work the kinks out of your boat. As long as you understand and accept that you probably won't be very competitive in the beginning, the experience and expertise that you will be exposed to on race day will help you progress faster than trial and error on your own.

Having said that, I will have to admit that I am very impatient and very competitive. So any thing I can do to speed up the process works for me.
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Old Aug 16, 2012, 12:19 PM
Sport R/C Flyer/Sailer/Driver
United States, MS, Columbus
Joined Nov 2001
263 Posts
A new sailor can learn a lot about tuning by reading and testing on the boat. At least enough to do half decent in the first race.

As an example, I bought a Nirvana about 6 weeks before this year's class championship regatta with the intent of entering the race. Before that purchse, I had never sailed an R/C boat (though did have decades of R/C plane and car expirience). I did LOTS of online research on sail tuning and racing rules. 6 weeks later I managed to place third in my first ever regatta.

Not saying that I learned everything from online. Heh. The boat had a severe weather helm before the regatta that I couldn't figure out. It took a simple tip from one of the RC Group members to get the helm under control. During the regatta itself, the weather helm started creeping back in as the wind picked up on Sunday. A tip by Steve of RCSails (who not only distributes the boat in North America but knows it inside and out) to adjust the jib fixed the Nirvana up.

Guess the point I'm making is that quite a lot can be learned by just researching. Not everything by any means, but enough to go into a race confident that we wouldn't embarrass ourselves!
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Old Aug 16, 2012, 03:24 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
SoloProFan's Avatar
The Netherlands
Joined Jul 2010
12,036 Posts
Besides, there are some basic tuning guides, even with vids. Although some details may vary from boat to boat, like the amount of twist the sails need for instance, I think you could get to a usable trim this way as well. Then either call upon an expert with your type of boat for final fine tuning or go experimenting.

Besides, different weather means different trim anyway if you want to get the max performance from your boat. Or you could settle for a basic trim that can be used for a wide range of wind conditions. As a fun-sailor, I have both my MM's setup that way so they respond fairly neutral even on stronger winds, and although I doubt I would be able to win a regatta with it this way, both boats sail well.
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Old Aug 16, 2012, 08:44 PM
Rather be flying
tsudduth's Avatar
United States, TX, Midland
Joined Feb 2009
264 Posts
Well there you have it. There are a number of different ways to learn how to tune your boat. We may have just covered most of them. All the experienced sailors on this thread can tell you how they did it ( including myself). But I'm sure you will pick the method that works best for you.

Anyhow, have fun with it and as my dad always said,"fair winds".
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 12:11 AM
Build straight - Fly twisty
Whiskers's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Little Mountain
Joined Feb 2010
4,164 Posts
Thank you all for your comments and recommendations.
I'm sure it will be fun learning the 'craft' (both meanings)
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 01:48 PM
Behind the curve in Rock Hill
jzami's Avatar
United States, SC, Rock Hill
Joined Aug 2012
42 Posts
IMHO the jib is more important than the main. If sheeted in too close, it dumps air back into the main. If sheeted too far out, it opens the slot too much which wastes lift and it luffs early. As a learning exercise, try sailing the boat with either just the main or just the jib. As the air gets heavier, I pay way more attention to the jib.

While oriented to a different design, it has some good, basic tuning ideas. Check this:
Micro Magic basic tuning guide (5 min 20 sec)
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Last edited by jzami; Aug 17, 2012 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 02:42 AM
Registered User
Australia, TAS, Penguin
Joined Mar 2012
461 Posts
Really good video, thanks for sharing!
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 01:42 PM
Registered User
Joined May 2011
583 Posts
I built my Micro Magic last Christmas vacation and love sailing it - alone or with others.

I bought and built a Victoria to race with the local club and it's a whole other world - sailing alone you've only yourself to compare to, but get on the water with some experienced folks and you WILL learn some things!

It is humbling and educational and absolutely worthwhile.

My vote is RACE!
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 06:57 AM
Build straight - Fly twisty
Whiskers's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Little Mountain
Joined Feb 2010
4,164 Posts
OK, I now have my boat and I'm sure it will be fine after I do quite a lot of work to it.
The instruction book calls it an, "Almost ready to sail boat."
It's not!
The winch and servo mount is broken. I don't think it happened in transit, but I believe it was broken at the factory. The mounting feet have been glued out of line and I guess someone tried to twist the thing straight and snapped it.
All the servo screws are rusty. (see photo)
I've worked out how to fix it, and this fix will make the unit easily replaceable when required.
The winch and rudder servo work fine, but the winch buzzes a bit with the radio I tested it with. I'll try another system to see if that can be helped.
I do not like the standing rigging. It's far too stretchy for my taste and I will be replacing it before I sail the boat.
I'll get there...
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 10:00 AM
Boomer1
Boomer1's Avatar
United States, CA, Temecula
Joined Sep 2009
3,440 Posts
Whiskers,
The servo tray breaking free inside the hull in transit is a common problem with HK boats. The fact that the fasteners are already rusted is unusual!
I'd send complaint with a photo to HK just to see what they'd do. Over the years their reputation for not having any real customer service is unfortunatley well known.
It is worth try! There is no way those screws should be rusted! They will rust once they get wet, but all their screws will rust at some point - they are a low grade metal that is not plated, instead a they paint them.

For the price, you are not going to get SS fasteners. Bonding the servo tray back in the boat shouldn't be a big deal for you. I'd certainly replace those screws with some decent ones, SS if you can find them.

As I mentioned early on, these boats need some upgrades and tweaks, but once done, you should have a boat that will sail satisfactorily. If you read the reviews posted on the HK site on this and other HK boats, most comments acknowledge these issues and once the repairs are completed - the boats sail as expected.

Let us know how things progress.

Boomer
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 11:06 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
SoloProFan's Avatar
The Netherlands
Joined Jul 2010
12,036 Posts
The rust puzzles me a bit. Perhaps it was sailed already by someone, and water entered the hull during that run? Then it was returned, and sold to the next buyer/victim.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 12:08 PM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
Wisconsin
Joined Jun 2007
1,931 Posts
I didn't read back through the entire posting, but if the boat has a plastic hull the rusty hardware may have been caused by the plastic itself. Blow molded plastic, like the older Kyosho Fairwind has, outgases some nasty stuff for a while. If the boat was assembled at the factory right after the hull was molded this is all it takes.

Dave
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 03:49 PM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Minnesota, USA
Joined Aug 2002
2,055 Posts
Whiskers -

to check on the buzzing - have someone stand near the boat to listen and move the transmitter a decent distance away. See if the buzzing continues or if it is gone. Not sure what radio you are using - but standing too close next to the boat and/or with antenna of transmitter not fully extended can cause this issue. You may also find faulty connectors to servo/receiver will cause this. Just some thoughts that may help.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 04:03 PM
Build straight - Fly twisty
Whiskers's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Little Mountain
Joined Feb 2010
4,164 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloProFan View Post
The rust puzzles me a bit. Perhaps it was sailed already by someone, and water entered the hull during that run? Then it was returned, and sold to the next buyer/victim.
I'm 99.999% sure it has not been assembled before.
There are no 'tell tails' to indicate prior usage, but a few to show that I will be the first to put it together. For instance, I had to clean out the rudder bearing tube.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 04:08 PM
Build straight - Fly twisty
Whiskers's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Little Mountain
Joined Feb 2010
4,164 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by boater_dave View Post
I didn't read back through the entire posting, but if the boat has a plastic hull the rusty hardware may have been caused by the plastic itself. Blow molded plastic, like the older Kyosho Fairwind has, outgases some nasty stuff for a while. If the boat was assembled at the factory right after the hull was molded this is all it takes.

Dave
The hull in FG, but it has an acetic acid (vinegar) smell to it when I'm poking about below deck.
Very strange...

Hmmm. I just had another sniff and now I'm not sure if the chemical smell is acetic acid.
I'll have to take care it does not corrode my nose...
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Last edited by Whiskers; Aug 19, 2012 at 04:41 PM. Reason: More sniffing.
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