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Old Aug 21, 2012, 08:42 AM
Earthbound Skyhound
StarHopper44's Avatar
United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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G'morning all'
FTR I heard back from R2:
"Nice to hearing from you and I'm sorry for the late reply. However, the "Options" is shows the available colors for the item. We are sorry for that we don't have the "Rainbow" color." Basically, as we thought - they just show what's presently available. I'm gonna reply, & ask if there's any ETA for other options. For info - I'm not equipped to re-cover nor wanting the extra investment so, that's out.
Meanwhile, I'm setting for an ASW-28, so this one's back burnered for the nonce.

Peace, out!
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 11:37 AM
Trex 700, Gaui X5, 450DFC
SoarWest's Avatar
United States, AZ, Queen Creek
Joined Apr 2010
326 Posts
I did some initial fitting on my Specter 1800 and determined a few things. It’s a fairly small fuse and is going to take carefully installation to get everything in there nicely.

1. The servos I was going to use are too tall to fit in the tray area (HK929MG). Fortunately I was looking through my box of unused goodies and found a couple of very short servos that will work just fine. The servos I’m using now are JRDS285 which came with a DX7 radio I bought a couple years ago.

2. Mounting the engine is going to take some modifications to the fuse. The way the holes are lined up on my fuse, the wires coming out of the motor hit the little vent indentation on either side. It appears that if I cut out that dent using a dremel tool, the wires will flow to the back area without rubbing against the outer motor housing. This happens due to the way the offset holes are installed on my unit. Two of the holes are slightly closer to center than the other two and thus there’s only 2 ways to get the engine in there and lined up and in both cases the wires pushing against those vent bumps cause rubbing on the outrunner. I could try drilling new holes in the engine mount, but I’m afraid of weakening it.

Thoughts?

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Last edited by SoarWest; Aug 21, 2012 at 12:06 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 11:48 AM
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That's perfectly understandable, SH. Covering is quite a bit more expensive than it used to be and it's a skill that does take some time to get right. The guys at the field called my first effort the "baked potato" because it looked like I wrapped it in aluminum foil; complete with wrinkles. But? I stuck with it and have created some really nice color schemes. Feel free to ask for tips if you decide to take the plunge.

I'm fortunate that I kept saving all those scraps over the years and have access to the scraps of a friend who left the hobby. I could cover a few planes without having to buy anything but a roll of the base color. I've even been considering offering small strips of covering for a buck plus shipping. Shipping wouldn't cost much because I figure one could just fold it up and stick it in an envelope.

Which ASW-28 are you looking at? The first plane I bought when I decided to go with modern electric gliders is a ST models ASW-28. It took some work but it's a pretty nice, almost scale, foamy. It flies quite well but I accidentally erased it's radio setup when I got the Specter and I've been too lazy to get it going again. Still, if I did it again with hindsight, I think I would go for the FMS from Banana Hobby or a glass/wood version in the 2.5 meter range.

Cheers!
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
I did some initial fitting on my Specter 1800 and determined a few things. It’s a fairly small fuse and is going to take carefully installation to get everything in there nicely.
That is true. I did quite a bit of head scratching. I was able to barely fit the HXT 900 servos by moving them a bit forward of the installed tray and grinding off the bottom corners. It took some guts to start grinding but, since they are only $3.00 servos, I took the plunge and didn't wreck them. A few people have also removed the tray entirely and mounted their servos on their sides. Obviously, if one has smaller servos, that's the simple route.

I think the motor mount would handle a few extra holes. One could always add a layer of glass or a thin plywood (say 1/32"?) doubler for insurance. Another option would be to put some wooden plugs in the unused holes and grind them flush. As I showed in previous pictures; I was able to route my motor wires along the bottom of the fuse where there's just a bit more depth than along the sides then I used a thin piece of plywood to keep them physically separated from the motor. Another option would be to just run the wires where they want to go and carve another cooling hole in the bottom of the nose. If I were doing it again I would have just opened the existing holes to their full extent and added a bigger exit hole before I added the scoops.

Cheers!
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 12:18 PM
Trex 700, Gaui X5, 450DFC
SoarWest's Avatar
United States, AZ, Queen Creek
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I added a few pictures and will post one here showing how the wires fill the hole on one side as they bend and turn back into the fuse. Since I used a slightly smaller motor than you did I'm hoping I can leave it like this and the one vent hole on the other side will be enough. I won't know this until I fly it. At this point the motor turns freely with no rubbing and the wires are routed back to where the ESC will be.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 12:35 PM
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I think that would work just fine. Even with a less powerful motor I doubt you will be running it long enough for cooling to be a big issue and you could always open up the obstructed hole, add another hole, or add plastic scoops.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 12:38 PM
WAA-08 THANK FRANK!
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Las Cruces, New Mexico, United States
Joined Jun 2002
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A spot of hot glue or RTV (sillicone, Goop, etc.) will hold your wires in place.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 12:52 PM
Trex 700, Gaui X5, 450DFC
SoarWest's Avatar
United States, AZ, Queen Creek
Joined Apr 2010
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Question on the wires used for the V-tail. As I slide mine into the provided guide tubes it has too much of bend at the rear to actually function. It's too tight. I got some thinner wire (.047") and it works a bit better. I might go even thinner to see if that helps or possibly try a piece of Carbon. What did you guys do as you must have seen this issue too?
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 12:55 PM
WAA-08 THANK FRANK!
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Make sure the wires are free of any kind of residue - mine came wrapped with tape and that left sticky spots on the wires. I cleaned it off with razor, then alcohol then wiped pencil graphite on them.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 01:09 PM
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Yep. I ran into the pushrod issue. I was able to get by with just grinding the rear part of the housing, removing the back edge of the hole and turning it into a horizontal oval, and lubricating it with some Vaseline. I also added a slight bend outside the housing so that the control horn pulls the wire away from the fuse a bit. If I had thinner wire on hand I would have gone with it and will probably pick some up to redo the whole works when I get poor flying weather as it's still a bit stiff for my liking. I might just pull out the whole works and start from scratch with the pushrods exiting the back of the fuse over the winter.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 05:41 PM
Earthbound Skyhound
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Thanks for the kind offer, but it'll be awhile before I'll be getting into MK, if ever. That's one premise of stickin' w/foamys.


Quote:
Originally Posted by peterlngh View Post
...Which ASW-28 are you looking at? The first plane I bought when I decided to go with modern electric gliders is a ST models ASW-28. It took some work but it's a pretty nice, almost scale, foamy. It flies quite well but I accidentally erased it's radio setup when I got the Specter and I've been too lazy to get it going again. Still, if I did it again with hindsight, I think I would go for the FMS from Banana Hobby or a glass/wood version in the 2.5 meter range.
Cheers!
Haven't made up my mind quite yet - I've got it down to 2 with another lingering in the thoughts, but it'll def be in the 2M+ range.

Bummerz on losing your setup. If you've got the memory slots available, one thing I quickly learned (once I had a Tx capable) was to copy & paste setups into another Model Memory bin, & add a # or letter to its name. Makes easy work of recovering goof-ups, & also works as a template for setting up others. I just got an X9303 Sailplane version Tx & the programming for an onboard Throttle Kill safety switch is kind've complex (I'm still learning the bells & whistles) but, using the 'sample' the former owner sent me made my first setup a breeze - & the Kill Switch was already there - programmed in about 4-5 keystrokes! Liked that!!
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 06:10 PM
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I like foam too. I just did the maiden on my friend's Calypso yesterday evening and I'm very impressed. He's also getting back into the hobby after a long layoff so we have to tweak the CG and decalage to get true hands off performance but, holding some back stick, I was able to make about 6 turns in a little bubble of lift that was about 30 feet around. I also had to use the prop as a break to get it down since he hasn't installed the flaps yet and we didn't get quite enough throw on his spoilerons. It's hard to beat foam, without spending a fortune, for pure floating ability.

I had made a copy of the ASW setup and then I promptly saved my Specter setup in the same slot. Oops! It's not really a big deal since all I have to program is the spoilerons. I'm just really enjoying the Specter and haven't been compelled to break out the ASW. Other than that I have the ASW pretty well dialed in and despite having to mod it a bit it's still a lot of plane for the money. I'll break it out if I'm going to have a crowd and feel like doing limbo under the soccer goals! I do, however, wish that the FMS was available when I bought it. Since I have an ASW-28 I'm thinking I might get their ASK-21 (23?) somewhere down the line.

BTW. Just about any scale glider, thanks to the high aspect ratio, will tip stall more than a glider designed for RC. The foamies are light enough that they recover almost instantly but it's something to watch for. It does, however, perform really nice, almost flat, spins which is something I have not yet figured out with the V-tail.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 10:51 PM
Earthbound Skyhound
StarHopper44's Avatar
United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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Re that wire-routing problem - blocking the vents:
It might've been told that you tried this but glancing back thru I didn't see it, but what about removing the motor & rotating it 90* so the wires come over the top or more fittingly, off the bottom? It appears there's a bit more space available in those two spots - & would be clear of the vents. I'd also look to maybe re-soldering the wires to come off the motor in a smoother 'departure' from the casing, but I know in some designs those wires go right into the windings inside, which would negate that possibility or at best, make it a big hassle.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 11:02 PM
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Re:Pushrods.

I haven't done it on the Specter (yet?) but i have remounted pusrods in fiberglass fuses before. Just insert the stock wire as far as it will go and then carefully cut the pushrod sleeve away from its hole. The tip of a new X-acto blade will usually work fine. Push the housing out of the way and take the Dremel to the hole for a smoother turn then just glue it in where it works best. You don't want to carve away too much but it shouldn't take a hole you can't fill with minimal effect on the strength. Sometimes it helps to cross the pushrods too. I was able to get passable movement without going quite that far but will probably do it the next time the weather stinks.
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 01:32 AM
Trex 700, Gaui X5, 450DFC
SoarWest's Avatar
United States, AZ, Queen Creek
Joined Apr 2010
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Star, I can't turn the motor 90 degrees as you suggest or the holes for the engine mount don't line up. I hadn't noticed it before but the X mount for the motor holes aren't evenly spaced. One set of screws is father out than the other, that is the case for this mount and motor too. Unfortunately the motor I bought has the wires coming out right where both vents are so I picked the side that had just a touch more room and mounted it there. It does spins up without hitting anything. It'll be interesting to see how much power this plane needs to fly. Now that I have the motor mounted I could do some power tests?

Peter, I noticed you mention pulling 220-250 watts with different props, I should be able to get near that with the motor I have in there now, I'll get some tests done soon with different props and post results. At 225 watts I'm hoping it'll climb nicely.

I discovered a problem with the tail feathers. In looking at mounting the tail feathers, mine were covered so tighlyt and close that the elevator on one side doesn't actually bend into the down position. It's attached to closely to fold into the 45 degree cut. I'm going to have to cut it off and tape it back on with 1mm or maybe 2mm of gap and a tape hinge to get it to work out. I know the minimal throw it has now isn't going to be enough.
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