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Old Feb 04, 2013, 01:06 PM
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Hi, again.

I'm taking the lazy way out. Just take a look at page 5 of the thread posts 62-65 deal with wing alignment.

It is important to get a good fit of the leading edge but I was able to just grind off gelcoat with a Dremel. Once I hardened it up with some Sky-loft and epoxy I've had no more problems with stress fractures. The original problem was my fault because I didn't get the alignment right the first time.

BTW. I live in Minnestoa. Last Thursday the high temperature was -2F with wind gusts up to 30mph! I don't mind a little snow on the ground and temps around freezing but that's about my limit. Actually, I've done quite a lot of flying this winter and have even had a couple good soaring days by flying the thermals that blow off the nearby freeway.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 12:55 AM
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Deutschland, NDS, Bramsche
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Sounds great where you are... There's alot of rain here . Our flying field gets water logged quite quickly and I dont fancy ditching the planes in the water soaked grass.
I look forward to building the Specter at the weekend.

Just looked at your post on p.5. Lazy - I don't think so - sensible, yes. All the info is there. Must of overseen it when reading the thread.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 02:50 AM
CSI
I promise, just ONE more order
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Del Rio Intl, Texas, United States
Joined Feb 2004
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I'm still here too. I have been slowly building mine up. I am currently covering the wing and grinding fiberglass on the fuselage to get the leading edge to fit. This has been slow....a lot of self-induced...process, but it's getting there.
I will post a couple of photos soon.

I also got my Calypso all ready to fly. Now I just need a nice enough day.
Lot's of projects, so little time!
Ken
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 01:48 PM
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I've started to think about batteries for the Specter. I have sooo many 3s 2200mah batteries I thought I would use those......However a few of you use different sizes, is there any advantage in using a 1300 or even a 1600mah Battery?
It seems that it likes to have a bit of weight up front?
Is this true? Sugestions............
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 03:44 PM
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I have flown mine with batteries from 950mah to 2200mah. CG isn't terribly critical and the biggest difference is a couple clicks of elevator trim either way and it flies a bit faster at heavier weights. My favorite for most conditions is the 1600mah Zippy Flightmax. At 116 grams it's a very good balance of power and weight. When there's no lift at all I prefer the 2200mah batteries because it has better energy retention for aerobatics though it suffers very little in soaring performance. When there's no wind and strong lift then the 950 batteries come into their own. I think you will be happy with any battery that will fit but I always end up back with the 1600s.

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=21116

BTW. I have flown with the CG between 62mm and 72mm back from the leading edge. There is very little difference in handling aside from better pitch sensitivity with the CG pushed back a bit and better wind penetration with it a bit forward. Simply moving the battery an inch front or back and a couple clicks of elevator trim is all the fine adjustment needed.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterlngh View Post
I have flown mine with batteries from 950mah to 2200mah. CG isn't terribly critical and the biggest difference is a couple clicks of elevator trim either way and it flies a bit faster at heavier weights. My favorite for most conditions is the 1600mah Zippy Flightmax. At 116 grams it's a very good balance of power and weight. When there's no lift at all I prefer the 2200mah batteries because it has better energy retention for aerobatics though it suffers very little in soaring performance. When there's no wind and strong lift then the 950 batteries come into their own. I think you will be happy with any battery that will fit but I always end up back with the 1600s.

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=21116

BTW. I have flown with the CG between 62mm and 72mm back from the leading edge. There is very little difference in handling aside from better pitch sensitivity with the CG pushed back a bit and better wind penetration with it a bit forward. Simply moving the battery an inch front or back and a couple clicks of elevator trim is all the fine adjustment needed.
Thanks for the quick reply.....I'll tell you how I got on.....
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 11:30 AM
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United States, CA, Marin
Joined Jul 2011
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just ordered one. this is going to be my first electric thermal soarer, but I've been flying slope gliders for 2 years and rc in general for 5 years. planning to use my old turnigy 35-36 910kv motor with a 13x4 folding prop. servos will be hxt900s all round, and i'll be using a turnigy 9x with frsky for the radio link. also, how hard is it to remove the motor? I would like to be able to remove the motor and counteract the weight with a bigger battery when I slope it.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 12:37 PM
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A lot of people simply remove the prop blades for slope soaring rather than bothering pulling the motor. The motor goes in and out very easily (Unless you mistakenly glue the motor wires to the fuse so that the only way the motor will come out is if one rips all the wires out of the motor!) but a 35mm motor simply won't fit. 28mm is the maximum size that the fuse will hold. Luckily there are a lot of good inexpensive 28mm motors available. Too many, in fact, to mention them all.

My permanently mounted KDA 22-20L gives outstanding performance, 10 seconds to altitude with a 10X6 prop at @250watts, and the HK 2834 1250kv that I have in my Yak 3D would be even better. Anything over 150watts that gets good reviews would be great but I have become addicted to the excellent rate of climb. Just let me know if you want further recommendations or run into any building issues we haven't covered.

Cheers!
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 01:00 PM
cheapskate extroardinairé
United States, CA, Marin
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thanks, I have been considering this motor: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r_2630kv_.html
it is slightly higher kv than recommended, but as I already have a smaller (7x4) folding prop it might be perfect? the motor you recommended is backordered.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 04:41 PM
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You're welcome.

The KDA has been out of stock so long that I figure HK has stopped carrying them. I wouldn't recommend the inrunner you are looking at. It's well over twice the weight of the one I'm using, it's long enough that it might create space problems, and it has such a high kv rating that you wouldn't be able to use a bigger and more efficient prop. Plus it's powerful enough that it just might rip the wings off if you achieved peak power.

There's no problem with using an outrunner. One just needs to use something to keep the wires clear of the can. I'll include a pic of how I set mine up but keep in mind that you should be more careful with the CA than I was to avoid permanently bonding said wires to the fuse. It's just a piece of 1/32" plywood.

Although I'm using it in a stunter rather than a glider I really love my HK 2834 1250kv. It's even more powerful than the KDA, is about 15 grams lighter with the 4mm bullet connectors I use, and it's a few dollars cheaper than a KDA if you order it from another vendor (Giant Shark in England had them in stock the last time I checked.). Here's a link for the 2834. I wouldn't use a prop bigger than 10X6 in a fuselage as tight as the Specter because it does run hotter than the KDA. I like mine so much that I have a second for my next project and one on order just to make sure that I have a spare on hand.
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=17600

Of course, you don't really need the full power of either the KDA or the HK motors I have. They are both pretty much at the upper limit for the Specter and I certainly wouldn't risk a hard pull out at full power. The Turnigy SK3 and NTM Prop Drive motors from HK also get good reviews and there are several 28mm motors with kv of around 1,000 and around 250watts. You might be able to go up to a 1500kv but I like the low speed thrust with slightly bigger props.

Cheers!
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 05:45 PM
cheapskate extroardinairé
United States, CA, Marin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterlngh View Post
You're welcome.

The KDA has been out of stock so long that I figure HK has stopped carrying them. I wouldn't recommend the inrunner you are looking at. It's well over twice the weight of the one I'm using, it's long enough that it might create space problems, and it has such a high kv rating that you wouldn't be able to use a bigger and more efficient prop. Plus it's powerful enough that it just might rip the wings off if you achieved peak power.

There's no problem with using an outrunner. One just needs to use something to keep the wires clear of the can. I'll include a pic of how I set mine up but keep in mind that you should be more careful with the CA than I was to avoid permanently bonding said wires to the fuse. It's just a piece of 1/32" plywood.

Although I'm using it in a stunter rather than a glider I really love my HK 2834 1250kv. It's even more powerful than the KDA, is about 15 grams lighter with the 4mm bullet connectors I use, and it's a few dollars cheaper than a KDA if you order it from another vendor (Giant Shark in England had them in stock the last time I checked.). Here's a link for the 2834. I wouldn't use a prop bigger than 10X6 in a fuselage as tight as the Specter because it does run hotter than the KDA. I like mine so much that I have a second for my next project and one on order just to make sure that I have a spare on hand.
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=17600

Of course, you don't really need the full power of either the KDA or the HK motors I have. They are both pretty much at the upper limit for the Specter and I certainly wouldn't risk a hard pull out at full power. The Turnigy SK3 and NTM Prop Drive motors from HK also get good reviews and there are several 28mm motors with kv of around 1,000 and around 250watts. You might be able to go up to a 1500kv but I like the low speed thrust with slightly bigger props.

Cheers!
thanks a lot, I'll have a look at those. (while I wait for them to ship I guess I'll fly it as a pure sloper)
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 06:17 PM
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Always happy to help (Or, at least, try to help.).

I don't have one myself but here's a motor I almost ordered instead of the 2834. This baby would be excellent in a Specter with a 10X6 prop and it's from the U.S. warehouse so there shouldn't be much time lag. Hmmm. Now that I look at it again I just might have to order one myself.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 07:58 PM
Arcee Moron
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The Netherlands
Joined Jun 2012
846 Posts
I finaly recieved my Specter today, and ordered the Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 2836-1040kv a few weeks ago. Also looked like a perfect motor for the Specter to me.

I just did a fast dry-fit but it seems the wires do just touch the motor in the front. It's all just a bit to narrow.


What is the best way to solve this problem.. Do some sanding / drilling with a dremel, of could it be a solution to use washers or extra plate behind the motormount so it moves just a bit back in the fuselage?

Maybe a extra "ventilation" hole like the 2 on left and right, so the wires have more space. Bad for landings however..

Also what servo's should be used in the wings: Just any regular 9 gram or should these be slim versions? I've allready found out that the servo's for the tail need some mods to fit. Might go with the TGY 1800A's
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 08:19 PM
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Penang, Malaysia
Joined Jun 2002
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I think I may have the same motor. My solution is simple. I merely planted a piece of sticky tape on top of the wires thus fixing them onto the fuselage.

It has worked well so far.
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 08:51 PM
Arcee Moron
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The Netherlands
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YEAP CHIN POH View Post
I think I may have the same motor. My solution is simple. I merely planted a piece of sticky tape on top of the wires thus fixing them onto the fuselage.

It has worked well so far.
In my case it's all the way up the front, just behind the mount.

Cables coming out under the backside of the motor is no problem, as I will also use tape / glue / balsa to prevent it from moving.
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