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Old Aug 06, 2012, 10:04 AM
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I'll let you know once I run the boat again. I checked the flex shaft and it looks fine to me. I reinstalled with fresh grease and really cranked the collet tight this time. My thought is that maybe the flex shaft screwed itself inward under power if the collet wasn't tight enough. The manual said "don't overtighten" and maybe I was too cautious. Hopefully all goes well on my next run

As a side note, the rudder had a tremendous amount of free play(about 45 degrees) when I took the boat out of the box. I tightened the set screws to eliminate this and retightened all of the other mounting bolts. I also aligned the motor with the guide tube as it was mounted at a slight angle from the factory. I also added silicone sealant around all of the backing plates inside the rear of the boat.

This is my first foray into RC boating and I am open to any other suggestions to make this an enjoyable experience.
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 09:30 AM
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Consider getting an upgraded flex shaft from OffshoreElectrics or KintecRacing as well as the "short" Octura collet. My first run the shaft came undone. Tighten the collet and came undone again on the 3rd run. By this time the shaft was worn to a point the collet could not get a decent grab. IMO the flex shaft does not have enough solder at the tip of the shaft and the collet grabs a small portion of the shaft. Since then I've had 12 runs and trouble free.
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 07:02 PM
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I made it back out to the lake today and the Revolt performed flawlessly. I was impressed with the speed and handling. I didn't have any flex shaft problems today, my rear spacing stayed the same through 2 complete runs, so evidently my problem was solved by further tightening of the collet.

I stopped my first run with 38% remaining battery life. I let the boat run until it slowed up on the second run and was down to 3% - - I thought that the boat was supposed to shut down on it's own after reaching 30%. Do I need to make some sort of adjustment for the boat to shut down before it drains the batteries too far?
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 07:43 PM
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The LVC works on voltage under load, not %age left. Ideally you should time your runs and not rely on the LVC.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 03:26 PM
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trim taps

I just bought the revolt 30 silver model, only bad thing i have to say is that mine didnt come with the screws for the carbon fiber trim tabs. Does anyone have any idea what size the srcew is for the carbon fiber trim tabs?
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Yikes! Thats a clear case of missed qualty-control. I would call Tower Hobbies stat. Im sure they will send you a new set of tabs.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 03:49 PM
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Trim Tabs

wasnt really thinking about calling them for the trim tab screws but did and its all good now they sent me a new set of screws..
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 08:29 PM
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trouble running

So the first run was good but once i tried to run the boat a 2nd time it would only run for a sec and stop the controller had to reboot with the boat and it was off again for 5sec and had ro reboot again ...gave up frustraded more then ever what am i doing wrong or is there something wrong with the boat?
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 09:00 PM
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Fully charged batteries for the 2nd run? All connections solid?
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 07:46 PM
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This is the coolest rc boat video Ive seen, and it just so happens to feature the Revolt.
Basically, the guy straps on a camera and chases the full-scale boat. Water enters the hull through a broken cooling line and pools in the nose, causing the boat to submarine. At that moment the failsafe kicks in and the boat goes full-throttle to the bottom of the ocean until the lipo dies, then floats back up. Epic... to say the least.

Aquacraft Revolt titanic (4 min 47 sec)
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 09:54 PM
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I don't think it actually had anything to do with a broken cooling line... if it had actually filled up with water it never would've floated back to the surface.

My money is that it submarined at a good angle off a wave, lost signal and kept powering straight down. Whether or not there was water in it wasn't the cause of it sinking.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 10:17 PM
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Read the video reply from the poster:

The ring on the water cooling system on the motor was folded, so water came in the boat.

Once the boat had an angle down when it was goind down the wake of the real boat, the water inside flowded to the front of the boat and made it dive. With no F/S that was the result.
It was about half full of water



theres no need to debunk what he said though, I just think its cool.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 10:44 PM
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If you think about it logically, water is heavier than air so when the boat was "stuck" on the bottom the water was all the way at the nose. If the whole reason it went down was water up at the nose, it sure has hell wouldn't have come back to the surface so quick when the power let up. IMO, that would've happened just the same even without the leak. Lots of people have had boats submarine and come back up bone dry on the inside, they just need to hit the water at the right (wrong?) angle with power and it'll end up going down.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 06:47 AM
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Tell ya what...

You have the link Youtube link. Go ahead and comment in the video with your findings. Lets pretend I didn't post it.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 08:20 AM
Step 1: Tear it apart
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More wparsons\MO agreement........world is coming to and end.

HalfBoatHalfSubmarine (3 min 14 sec)
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