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Old Nov 11, 2012, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by scribble007 View Post
The splines inside the servo wheels are what stripped out..
That sounds like you had the wrong type of servo wheel. I've never had that happen on any of my FBL helis, even using plastic arms. If you have the wrong ones (for a different brand) it may seem to fit, but will strip out under a load.

Chris
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:20 PM
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United States, CA, Yosemite Lakes
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The fit on snugly. And had 23t like my servos. So I thought the were the right ones. Said "J" on it. for JR right?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by IFHELI View Post
It looks like my original thought of the CW/CCW brake setting gets reversed when you select tail servo reversed is wrong.
No but it does work backwards from the way everyone assumed.


Quote:
I decided to raise max rate on tail to 72(720*) and played some more with CW/CCW and acc. values.
Does max rate have any effect on stop bounce?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by scribble007 View Post
Well my first attempt at flybarless was a big failure.
I put on those align servo wheels. But they were to soft and stripped out causing me to loose control.

What servos are you using? Sounds like you may have the wrong kind of wheels. Generally there are three types of servo horns with several different sizes of each. The three main types are Futaba, Hitec and JR. There are some custom ones out there too but usually they fall into one of those three and 90% of the time it's a Futaba spline.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:23 PM
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Its the exi 227f servo
Which I THOUGHT was JR splines. But guess I was wrong.
So Im going to have to put the old servo arms back on. Blades and need a new main shaft.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Srx

Where can additional SRX adapters be bought to run 2x satelites?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 11:24 PM
as much as I can
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This one for the 3GY v2 will work with the G31:
http://www.oomodel.com/alzrc-satelli...0-p-64018.html
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by scribble007 View Post
Its the exi 227f servo
Which I THOUGHT was JR splines. But guess I was wrong.
So Im going to have to put the old servo arms back on. Blades and need a new main shaft.
No the EXI and Solar servos use a custom spline, they can use each others horns though (they come from the same factory)

Also they have fragile wiring that will eventually vibrate loose, or at least the smaller ones do (larger ones might have better wiring but I haven't checked). If you see any evidence of shaking or odd behavior in flight immediately check the servos.

When I build my 600 I'm going to be using these.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...6sec_61g_.html

I've been using the standard voltage high speed version as the rudder servo on my 500 and it stays cool and works flawlessly. They have a standard version of this but for $4 difference might as well get the HV version as performance is the same at 4.2v and 6v anyway and the components are probably a bit more robust to handle the higher voltage. They use a three stage gear train which is very smooth and quiet (or at least it is in the high speed version). The case and gear train looks suspiciously like certain JR servos and I wonder if they aren't compatible (do they copy or are all these cases and gears coming out of the same factory I wonder?)

Some have said that Blue Arrows 333hz spec is wrong and they should only be run at 280hz but I haven't had any problems, the tail servo I'm using doesn't even get warm. They are very "chattery" servos when at rest, though they aren't as loud as the smaller 280xxx series Mi servos.

The picture is now wrong, they updated the case so they look like this now:
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 03:38 PM
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I must have counted wrong.
Im acutally very happy with the exi servos. I have well over 100 flights on them, and never had an issue. Though, If I see a good deal on some aligns Ill prob jump on that.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 05:57 PM
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Atomic Skull,

I do believe upping the max rate did help. On the two helis I set to 3CW and 4CCW brake I had always had to do 1 & 3 on brake. I`m still alittle confused on why the MiniTitan w/ the black 3GY is at 1 & 1 on brake since it has a KST servo on tail like the other MiniTitan.. Looks like there are more test flights for this one...

I hope to get some more flights in this weekend if it`s not to cold.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by IFHELI View Post
Atomic Skull,

I do believe upping the max rate did help. On the two helis I set to 3CW and 4CCW brake I had always had to do 1 & 3 on brake. I`m still alittle confused on why the MiniTitan w/ the black 3GY is at 1 & 1 on brake since it has a KST servo on tail like the other MiniTitan.. Looks like there are more test flights for this one...

I hope to get some more flights in this weekend if it`s not to cold.
The 3GY V2 is the metal case version?
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 08:35 PM
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The first 3GY V2 had a black plastic case. The newest one which has a blue label on top has a metal lower case.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
No but it does work backwards from the way everyone assumed.


Does max rate have any effect on stop bounce?
This is the Maximum Yaw Rate with each unit being measured in 10 degrees per second. Think of it as the Speed Limit for your tail: you can go 360 degrees in one second or 720 degrees in one second.

The "Stop Bounce" is controlled by the Left and Right Piro Brake setting. Increasing this value gives you harder stops during piros in the noted direction.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SDHeliPilot View Post
The "Stop Bounce" is controlled by the Left and Right Piro Brake setting. Increasing this value gives you harder stops during piros in the noted direction.
...and in general you have to find a compromise between hard stops with bounce or softer stops without bounce....
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 01:05 PM
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Ok
So, I'm about to put the finishing touches on my 6s 450 pro with the robird g31.
I'm going to triple check everything this time.
What kind of settings should I put in?

Use the sport default? or 3d default?
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