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Old Aug 04, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
That sounds like what happened to me when I had cyclic gains set too high, it would try to tip over on takeoff.
I'll run throught the set up again tomorrow, and check on the cyclic gains, and the cyclic settings.
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Old Aug 04, 2012, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by clearprop88 View Post
I understand what it's for now, thanks for your help.
The reason you use a cyclic ring btw is because the combined movements of the servos acting on the swash are additive. i.e. without a cyclic ring with the stick in a corner moves the swash further than it does on the axis. This is also why most game controllers used a circular aperture for the stick, you want the stick to travel an equal distance from center in all directions.

On planks you want full resolution in the corners because elevator and aileron aren't additive (separate control surfaces).

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Originally Posted by clearprop88 View Post
I'll run throught the set up again tomorrow, and check on the cyclic gains, and the cyclic settings.
I set the pots to 3:00 and it seems to work well. Any higher and the heli gets tippy on the ground and visably wobbles in piros. I'm using a 450 Sport with Ino Lab HGD-260HB's on cyclic. (used a set of upper frame panels from Tarot with holes for larger servos and had to mount them inside the frame to get straight links)
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Old Aug 04, 2012, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
The reason you use a cyclic ring btw is because the combined movements of the servos acting on the swash are additive. i.e. without a cyclic ring with the stick in a corner moves the swash further than it does on the axis. This is also why most game controllers used a circular aperture for the stick, you want the stick to travel an equal distance from center in all directions.

On planks you want full resolution in the corners because elevator and aileron aren't additive (separate control surfaces).



I set the pots to 3:00 and it seems to work well. Any higher and the heli gets tippy on the ground and visably wobbles in piros. I'm using a 450 Sport with Ino Lab HGD-260HB's on cyclic. (used a set of upper frame panels from Tarot with holes for larger servos and had to mount them inside the frame to get straight links)
I have the pots set at 12 o'clock now, so that should be OK. I haven't played around with tweaking them yet. I think that after I run through the set up again the tippiness should be reduced. I have to set up the cyclic properly, and chase down the vibes.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by clearprop88 View Post
I have the pots set at 12 o'clock now, so that should be OK. I haven't played around with tweaking them yet. I think that after I run through the set up again the tippiness should be reduced. I have to set up the cyclic properly, and chase down the vibes.
At 12:00 I felt it wasn't stable enough, but I don't do 3D.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 08:16 AM
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BF + AS,

Does the change that you have made affect how the cyclic feels ? I love the way that my G31 feels on my Protos and have not noticed any problems on collective - however the Protos is a bit of a rocket so that may be masking things.

I just don't want to change the settings if they will spoil the cyclic feel.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by clearprop88 View Post
I have the pots set at 12 o'clock now, so that should be OK. I haven't played around with tweaking them yet. I think that after I run through the set up again the tippiness should be reduced. I have to set up the cyclic properly, and chase down the vibes.
Now this is a good topic , Tippyness. Mine does that on takeoff all the time , it doesnt matter where the pot settings are . I did notice that the higher pot settings give it a more stable feel in the air , like a copilot . A lower setting will make it feel more 3Dcapable .
I chalked the tippyness on takeoff because of the cheap analog servos used , maybe not.
Still flys great once you get it off the ground LOL .
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeHRC View Post
BF + AS,

Does the change that you have made affect how the cyclic feels ? I love the way that my G31 feels on my Protos and have not noticed any problems on collective - however the Protos is a bit of a rocket so that may be masking things.

I just don't want to change the settings if they will spoil the cyclic feel.

Thanks,
Mike
I found increasing max rate mostly makes the pitch speed faster while not affecting the cyclics to much so I would give it a try.On both of my heli's it works better above 22 to 24 and I will probably go more in the future.
Steve
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
At 12:00 I felt it wasn't stable enough, but I don't do 3D.
I don't fly 3D either, so I like a stable heli.
I flew 5 packs this morning. The tippyness only seems to occur at low headspeeds, as soon as it starts to lift off it's very stable. It's flying very well at 12 o'clock. I gradually increased the pots up to 4 o'clock to see what the effect would be On my last pack the heli lifted off, and veered off to the right. I tried to get it under control but couldn't so it crashed. Bent tail boom, and chewed up main gear.
For my heli. it seems like 2 or 3 o'clock is a good setting.
I'm not sure if the 4 o'clock setting is what caused the crash, but I'll back off a bit when I get it flying again
I fly off a grassy field, and sometimes the grass catches the landing gear. It could have been that, and not the Robird.
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Last edited by clearprop88; Aug 05, 2012 at 12:59 PM.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jombo View Post
Now this is a good topic , Tippyness. Mine does that on takeoff all the time , it doesnt matter where the pot settings are . I did notice that the higher pot settings give it a more stable feel in the air , like a copilot . A lower setting will make it feel more 3Dcapable .
I chalked the tippyness on takeoff because of the cheap analog servos used , maybe not.
Still flys great once you get it off the ground LOL .
I'm using cheap digital servo's on my heli. also. EXI 213's. That may be what's causing the tippiness in my case also. As you say once it's airborne it fly's great.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 01:14 PM
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This is a you tube video from NASA describing the Rover Curiosity landing on Mars tonight, Sunday, at 10:51 PDT.
http://www.nasa.gov/multimedia/video...a_id=149035461
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 01:30 PM
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Sorry about the crash,I checked out the rover video, pretty cool, I'll be watching!
Steve
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeHRC View Post
BF + AS,

Does the change that you have made affect how the cyclic feels ? I love the way that my G31 feels on my Protos and have not noticed any problems on collective - however the Protos is a bit of a rocket so that may be masking things.

I just don't want to change the settings if they will spoil the cyclic feel.

Thanks,
Mike
For me it just made the heli feel more sim like and also more like my other helis. Yes, it did increase the agility a bit, but the removal of the damping was more important to me. I just felt more connected.

You could give it a try. The great thing with digital settings, is that you can always put them back exactly as they were before.

In saying that, if you're happy with the way it flies now, why change it.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Have you guys considered your servos? After a certain point, they probably can't move any faster individually.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by boredom.is.me View Post
Have you guys considered your servos? After a certain point, they probably can't move any faster individually.
I didn't, because it flew well with the 3GYS v1 that was on it before the v2.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 06:32 PM
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Is it possible to electronically level the swash 0 degrees and +/- 12 degrees to compensate for servo travel differences from the setup program or is this only available by directly setting up the gyro with your transmitter? As far as I can see this feature is only implemented in direct setup of the gyro and not in the setup program.

EDIT: If you do this is will overwrite the subtrims you've already set. However all you need to do to get them back if you mess them up beyond repair is to set the servo adjustments to 0 in the setup program disconnect the gyro from the computer and go back to the swash leveling menu and just adjust it until it's level (don't touch the rudder as this adjusts cyclic center)

Using the swash leveling adjustment on the gyro I now have an absolutely level swash through the entire travel range with no interactions.

One thing to watch out for is that some setup menus will move the cyclic servos without any subtrims making it look as though the swash isn't level.

Is it possible to get rid of all yaw on a hard climb or will there always be a small amount?
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