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Old Dec 20, 2012, 09:49 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Kevin, if you have less throttle than required for that speed of flight the prop will still be creating pressure in front of the prop disc. Completely stopping the prop or setting a power level >= the speed traveling is the only way to reduce the frontal drag of the inlet area. This is all pretty much academic as we're talking about a 2 1/2 oz foam micro with a 30mm fan.

-Brian
+1

Besides - the MiG has excellent power-on and power-off glide characteristics, which suggests that the difference in drag is minimal.

Joel
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Ah, very good. You say hammerhead and you got my attention!
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Sabastian View Post
Hi guys

My wife purchased the Mig-15 as a Christmas present for me, I looked at it before she wrapped it up and I was wondering what is the best way to put the battery in the battery tray, I put the battery in with the balancing lead cable facing forward( towards the front of the plane) but there seems to be a lot of cable there to put back in the battery tray, do you guys just stuff the cables back in behind the battery? Also is the velcro strong enough to hold the battery in or are you guys using anything else to hold it in.

Thanks Sabastian
I put my batteries as far back in the tray as I can get them, hanging over the spot where the wire from the Mig comes out of. The battery connector is facing forward and the extra wires stuffed into the front of the tray.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 01:52 PM
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Picked up a Hyperion G3 VX 7.4V 2S 500mah 35C/65C Lipo with UMX Connector recently. Used it along with my TP 65C 325mah and Nanotech 35c 300mah during my lunch break.

The Mig clearly had more thrust using it than it did with the Nanotechs. Obviously longer flight times as well. It is also the first time that any battery got a faster RCSpeedo result than the TP batteries during a session. Though I suspect that it could have been due to higher wind gusts because the thrust certainly seemed similar. The Mig climbed better with the TP's due to lower weight, but the Mig wasn't overly nose heavy with the 500 mah Hyperions. They certainly seem like a viable alternative for those who might want more flight time per battery.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 02:42 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Originally Posted by AustinG View Post
Picked up a Hyperion G3 VX 7.4V 2S 500mah 35C/65C Lipo with UMX Connector recently. Used it along with my TP 65C 325mah and Nanotech 35c 300mah during my lunch break.

The Mig clearly had more thrust using it than it did with the Nanotechs. Obviously longer flight times as well. It is also the first time that any battery got a faster RCSpeedo result than the TP batteries during a session. Though I suspect that it could have been due to higher wind gusts because the thrust certainly seemed similar. The Mig climbed better with the TP's due to lower weight, but the Mig wasn't overly nose heavy with the 500 mah Hyperions. They certainly seem like a viable alternative for those who might want more flight time per battery.
At 27g I'd think it'd be really nose heavy! I flew mine with a 29g battery and it took full elevator and more than a little power to keep it from lawn darting on landing. The landing speed was also over 2x stock. Did you have any weight in the back? It is not the weight that kills the mig it is the extreme forward location of the battery tray.

-Brian
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
At 27g I'd think it'd be really nose heavy! I flew mine with a 29g battery and it took full elevator and more than a little power to keep it from lawn darting on landing. The landing speed was also over 2x stock. Did you have any weight in the back? It is not the weight that kills the mig it is the extreme forward location of the battery tray.

-Brian
No weight in the back, but I do put the battery as far back as possible in the tray. By that I mean it is flush against the rear end of the tray where there isn't any velcro at all. It was a little bit more nose heavy than the other batteries, but I didn't even adjust the trim. It still did a loop very easily and was very fast in a shallow dive. Performed much better than I thought it would.

Landing wasn't an issue. It landed nicely on its belly sliding on the grass and dirt. Though I do have a layer of packing tape covering the bottom of the plane, most of which is behind the battery tray. That might balance out the weight a tad.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 09:15 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Originally Posted by AustinG View Post
No weight in the back, but I do put the battery as far back as possible in the tray. By that I mean it is flush against the rear end of the tray where there isn't any velcro at all. It was a little bit more nose heavy than the other batteries, but I didn't even adjust the trim. It still did a loop very easily and was very fast in a shallow dive. Performed much better than I thought it would.

Landing wasn't an issue. It landed nicely on its belly sliding on the grass and dirt. Though I do have a layer of packing tape covering the bottom of the plane, most of which is behind the battery tray. That might balance out the weight a tad.
I was considering getting some of that lead tape tennis players use for the racquets. That might work really well in balancing the tail end out and would still be small enough for this scale.

-Brian
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Kevin, if you have less throttle than required for that speed of flight the prop will still be creating pressure in front of the prop disc. Completely stopping the prop or setting a power level >= the speed traveling is the only way to reduce the frontal drag of the inlet area. This is all pretty much academic as we're talking about a 2 1/2 oz foam micro with a 30mm fan.

Downline = flight towards the ground. Think 2nd half of a hammerhead or 2nd half of a loop.

-Brian
Yep!!!---Over the top of a split "S" you would see the airspeed slow---Hence you could drop back to idle at this point...As the plane builds speed on the downline, add throttle to keep the drag at the front of the plane to a minumum, keeping a low pressure area at the intake with advancing the throttle....Timing it right you will have full throttle when you level out...I have then reduced the throttle after the before mentioned downline and returned to level with a head of steam, ready for the next vertical manuever as the speed carried will help you carry you though the next vertical manuever...Use gravity, inertia, and lower pressure at the front of the plane to your advantage...

Trust me---This adds to the speed of the plane when you level out rather than to keep the plane at idle all of the way on the downline and then nail the throttle when you level out...The added speed is carried over to the next manuever...You also save power by NOT going to full power on the downline until you reach the bottom....
I guess I need to make a vid of just how far I can push a 300mAh 35C NanoTech.......

Although this plane only weighs a few ounces I can stretch out the flight with proper throttle management AND get in plenty of vertical manuevers as well...

On a good day with little wind I'll try to prove my point...Which I have only weekends now to fly...It's hit or miss with the weather this time of year...Until then---All have MANY blessed flights and a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a HEALTHY NEW YEAR!!!..........

Kevin
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 09:44 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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Or, one could simply stay @ WOT throughout the entire downline & adjust the flightpath accordingly with elevator to maintain symmetry, thereby maximizing the amount of energy available for the next maneuver. After all, this MiG doesn't have anywhere near enough power on 2s to over-speed the airframe in any flight-condition.

Joel
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 06:36 AM
Jagd Flieger
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Hi guys

Thanks for the info about the batteries, it is interesting to note that some guys push the battery right to the front of the tray and some right to the very back of the tray, I guess it depends on what size battery you are using and where you want your CG.

Thanks Sabastian and have a Merry Christmas and great New Year!
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by SilentPilot View Post
Ah, penny dropped now!

Didn't realise it was just for the landing roll.
I'll keep my ailerons...

Tony
Well "it's" complete now and in the mod thread. And yes, you can has aileron function too
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Sabastian View Post
Hi guys

Thanks for the info about the batteries, it is interesting to note that some guys push the battery right to the front of the tray and some right to the very back of the tray, I guess it depends on what size battery you are using and where you want your CG.

Thanks Sabastian and have a Merry Christmas and great New Year!
Weight does matter...I use the same batteries for all of my flights with this plane...But If I move the pack back as little as 3/16th's of an inch the plane will be out of trim and climb---Same for moving the pack forward as my plane will need some up trim to compensate...I have my pack set so that when I roll inverted VERY LITTLE down elevator is needed for level flight...This plane really flies nicely inverted...HH got the airfoil right for this plane---Some undercamber for slow flight but not so much undercamber that inverted flight suffers much...

Kevin
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 07:46 PM
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This evening while attempting to change batteries at the field the red plug that is attached to the Mig pulled out of the connector. It had looked a tad loose to begin with. The break is just a little bit inside the connector. Anyone have a good technique for re-attaching it at that point. I am a bit of a noob with any kind of electrical wiring so any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 10:54 PM
**I'm Battman**
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Twin Falls, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinG View Post
This evening while attempting to change batteries at the field the red plug that is attached to the Mig pulled out of the connector. It had looked a tad loose to begin with. The break is just a little bit inside the connector. Anyone have a good technique for re-attaching it at that point. I am a bit of a noob with any kind of electrical wiring so any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Austin,

How are your soldering skills?

I would purchase a new female connector with wires attached...
http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...l0j18b2q6dh657
and splice/solder the red and black wires.
Cover the solder joints with heat shrink or liquid electrical tape.
Center white wire isn't used.

rc
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by RCBABBEL View Post
Austin,

How are your soldering skills?

I would purchase a new female connector with wires attached...
http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...l0j18b2q6dh657
and splice/solder the red and black wires.
Cover the solder joints with heat shrink or liquid electrical tape.
Center white wire isn't used.

rc
My soldering skills are basically non-existent, but I may have a relative that can do something. Thanks for the response. I take it the other alternative is replacing the brick? That seems to be the only route to go on replacement parts from HH.
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