Not to fret.. black coat of paint is being laid down as we speak. You might notice a new color in there.

Should have all colors represented on the site Monday or Tuesday at the latest.

Is that green I see in there?!

Yep, I was a little unsure of the green but when I added the black it looks great!!

Waiting for some blob of glue to dry overnight, but what do you think the old Maxxnut is up to here ???

Originally Posted by khen

Yep, I was a little unsure of the green but when I added the black it looks great!!

Can't wait to see how it looks.

I got mine a while back,will probably be building another one when i have time. I have the original,the wood spar quicker build version that omits the carbon trussing will be next. Will be cool to have one of each but the wood spar version should be an even quicker build than the original for those new to epp foamies and assembling carbon trussing etc.. not difficult for me and ive flown epp planes using both types of stiffening but the carbon trussing can be intimidating for some if there new to epp planes or kits. I was messing around in the house with mine and messed up a couple times but it shows some durability in the video,will probably be less reserved with my flying when i have a back up slicko though.

Slicko Epp 3D Plane House Flying (3 min 48 sec)

Wow!! Crazy!

Get Real was an early tester for the Slicko and provided a lot of feedback that went into the final version. He know's how to test em'.

One note, the Hinges on the Slicko are done with Goop glue as opposed to Welders. Goop resists UV damage on exposed parts so the hinge will not turn yellow and get brittle. If you need to repair the hinges you can use either Goop or E6000 (sold at Walmart). I've had Goop hinges on planes that are 2+ years old and they are still flexible and clear. Welders applies easier and is still my glue of choice for joints and tear repairs.

Originally Posted by maxxnut

Waiting for some blob of glue to dry overnight, but what do you think the old Maxxnut is up to here ???

Hmmm.. what are you up too?? I'm just suddenly in the mood for soup.

Once again, your shop is inspiring..

Just cause I am a nice guy...here is another clue, and the "secret word" is Carbon Rods...
This IS an experiment, so don't try this until I get done and report the results...hope it works.

Originally Posted by maxxnut

Just cause I am a nice guy...here is another clue, and the "secret word" is Carbon Rods...
This IS an experiment, so don't try this until I get done and report the results...hope it works.

With that wood propping the fuselage up and the cans weighing the wingtips down are you trying to add a little dihedral to the slicko?

I'm a very happy Slicko owner for more than a few months. I'll also tell you I have more than one of these. There isn't too much to say other than this plane is just awesome in every way. Easy to build, flys and floats like a dream and extremely durable. khen really thought out the design and 3D capabilities of this plane. Here's a few pics of plane I painted and used a stick mount. I also found it easier to cut the servo slots like in the pic to get a tighter fit against the fuse before assembly of the top fuse.
The bottomline is if you want a fantastic indoor/outdoor fully 3D capable EPP foamie for a great price that's easy to build and fly this is it.
It can be a 3D trainer for the beginner and do every move in more capable hands of the more experienced pilot. This plane has gotten rave reviews by everyone that has flown it. A 5 Star plane on all counts.

Ding, Ding, Ding...we have a winner !! Good job Rayne. I don't know if it will make a difference or not, but if I don't like it, I got 3 more in the mail heading to my door. I used 3/16ths. sheet and I just glued up the diagonal carbon braces with the balsa sheet in place also.
When this plane goes to the model field, I will let anyone try it as I doubt if anyone can hurt it much. I also have a friend that is an excellent 3D flyer that will wring it out, both outside and inside our local church activity center.

Dan, I REALLY like that paint scheme.. looks really clean.

maxxnut, I'm looking forward to hearing your report on the dihedral Slicko.. I can't believe I missed that. I though you were just extending your workbench.

Onwards to a little more fiddely stuff...the carbon rods on the side of the body. Marking from the spar toward the tail, make marks at 4 1/2 and 12 3/4 inches on the horizontal body, and 8 1/2 and 17 inches on the vertical body, with all marks about 3/8ths. of an inch in from the edge. The first plane I did this to, I sharpened the carbon (again) and poked them in place, this plane I just cut a slit in the foam and slid the rods into place. Very important to position the rods so that they cross each other a little as this adds strength.

The first rod starts at the junction of the 2 wing rods meeting the lower fuse, and zig-zaging back to the tail. There will be 4 rods of 1 mm by 5 1/2 inches long. After these 4 rods are glued in place, align the body again to keep everything straight and walk away for an hour to let the glue dry. Next is the pair of 4 1/2 inch rods from the lower fuse to the stab. These 6 rods (total) weigh 1.1 grams. After all of the rods are glued in place, go back with Welder's and a tooth pick and apply a bead of glue where the rods cross each other and where they go into the foam.

Now I was ready to install the aileron servo, a HS 45 with a long arm that weighs 8.6 grams. I had to enlarge the servo hole at the rear by 1/8th inch and left the width alone. After centering the servo with the radio, I pushed it into the hole to check fit, raised it a little and applied a drop of glue with toothpick, pressed it down....done.