Pat
As a temporary deal I put a piece of 5mm ply About 3/8 wide across the tail saddle in line with the leading edge. I carefully tightened the bolts so I would not warp or damage the unsupported horizontal. Now that I know that is good I will make shims that go from 5mm to 0 the length of the saddle and glue them on. I will tack two sticks of 1/4 spruce the right length together then use a razor plane and sanding block to make a matched set of shims.

Mark

Hard balsa will work just as good and be easier to sand to shape also.

Originally Posted by pmccleave

Guys,

Where exactly are you putting the shims on the stab and can somebody shoot a picture of what they did and share with us?

Thanks,


Pat

Pat......either put them on top of the existing saddle....one on each side 3/16" at the front tapering to 0" at the back....or.....you could also put them on the elevator/stab itself.

Guys I have the upper and lower bays done the question is does the spoiler have to open towards the root ?
This would require two servos
If I put the spoilers in the other way I can do one servo in the door at the attachment point
This would pull the spoiler open towards the tip

Originally Posted by creeve

Guys I have the upper and lower bays done the question is does the spoiler have to open towards the root ?
This would require two servos
If I put the spoilers in the other way I can do one servo in the door at the attachment point
This would pull the spoiler open towards the tip

Doesn't really matter....it's not the like the plane is true to scale anyway......put them in the way it works best. Then.....when you land we can rib you about your spoilers being wrong!!

Well here are my pictures of the damage that I did to mine......after watching a crappy video of the landing what happened is that with out spoilers it came in fast and went further down the runway which is grass then I thought it would and there is a paved section of runway that cuts across where I landed and the plane hit that edge of paving and it bumped it back into the air...that is when I think it broke.

What I did was take the covering off of one side and CA'd all the parts back together and then cut scabs to go front and back of each former on both sides....even the ones that didn't break got reinforced...I used 1/8" ply for those around the wheel box and 1/16" everyplace else......I did them all.

Originally Posted by SZD16

Doesn't really matter....it's not the like the plane is true to scale anyway......put them in the way it works best. Then.....when you land we can rib you about your spoilers being wrong!!

Scale!

Originally Posted by creeve

Scale!

Not so much....there was a full size at Elmira....ours are not "scale"

I think Ross (BN) & some of the scale-inclined guys on the German build put them opening opposite direction. The top ones towards the fuse ,and the bottom ones opening toward the tips. Isn't that the way the full scale ones were? For me, it's probably top only for a while, and then, whatever is easiest.

Hi guys for scale top side opens outward bottom inward.

I was interested in this model until I heard all the issues ... it's a great deal but it's still a lot of $$$ for something you have to re-engineer to make right.

Back to drooling over the glass slippers, I guess.

Touch wood mine is still intact..... I havnt adjusted the incidents I don't carry down elevator and I havnt broken any formers in landing accidents, not sure why everyone else is having so many dramas.......

Tikall. The plane is a great value and flies very well. It is majestic in the air. This is especially true during an approach for landing. It is COOL!

Reinforcing the formers is not a big deal at all - maybe 1 hour worth of work. Playing with decallage and moving cg around is no more than normal trimming and tuning.

Don't be swayed by the forum. Negative remarks almost always look worse in open forums than they are in reality.

If you review this thread, you'll see shipping problems, problems caused by hard landings, tuning concerns, and one weakness in the design. There is nothing there that you wouldn't find in any new 40-sized airplane release. If you want a 6meter scale airplane that goes together very quickly, looks great in the air, and flies well, I would recommend this one.

Guys,

I am trying to figure servo torque calculations for selecting servos for the K8B mainly so I can see if servos I already have will work. Can anyone tell me what kind of air speeds I should be using in the calculator and also appropriate deflection angles for the surfaces? I am trying to figure out if the JR DS821's which have 88 in/oz of torque at 6 volts will work for the ailerons and elevators. I for sure have to buy at least one new servo for the rudder and maybe one for the tow release but I would love to be able to use the DS821's if they will work. They fit fine but not sure if they have enough poop to them.

Thanks,

Pat

Hi Patt I've been flying my Ka from day one with Hitech 645 mg servos on aileron elevator HS 705bb on rudder HS 422 on each airbrake and HS 805bb on tow release. 150 flights+ and still going strong. If you use these as a guide for torque @ 6 volts you'll be fine.