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Old Dec 07, 2012, 07:39 PM
Vintage wood is the best!
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good luck!
Bingo!
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 11:51 PM
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Wings

I called Tower, and was referred to Hobbico in regards to replacement of the "fixed "wing panel that had some streaks, which resembled burned covering. Within a couple of hours , I received a call from Mr. Pesch, Sr. Manager, top of the system, there. He said he'd send a new panel if they were available, but they don't have any. I mistakingly thought a whole conainer of KA8's were ordered, and they might have a whole pile of the replacement wings, but they originally only ordered the 18 KA's or so for us, plus a couple or so extra. Therefore they ordered only replacement wings for the original order. The original order was only done because he had long-time friends asking, and he personally wanted to make these huge gliders available to fly at the at the JR Aerotow, and others. The few extra ones sold out right away, and at this point, they may never be offered again. He bought one too, and then offered to send me his wings in trade of mine if I wanted. What a great guy, and company. The discoloration on mine is not all that bad, and since I got the carbon tubes for the "Allan fix" a couple of months ago, I'll just use the best wings. Thank you Mr. Pesch and Hobbico for such great customer service, and your efforts to correct the problem. I certainly do not regret purchasing the KA8. Also, thank you Steve for doing all this . It'll be a great flier, and tons of fun. Thanks again. Bob
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 02:30 PM
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United States, AZ, Phoenix
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Originally Posted by WOO NZ View Post
Did you guys notice the back and front spares now have shear webs on the whole wing as well as aluminum tube the whole length of the panel,the shear webs if glued well will add a lot more strength to the wing.(although stronger top and bottom caps would be better.)
Yes I noticed and it can be viewed with the aide of a flashlight by looking down through the square holes in the outer ply ribs.

I will have to weigh the new panels and see the difference in mass/weight.

My new panels have the ink stencil of 0016. I guess there weren't many of these sold in the United States... and my panels came from a dealer in CA. He sends me an e-mail stating the panels are free, but I have to pay $40.00 for the Fedex shipping; they arrived unharmed (BTW, Fedex has yet to break any plane I have ordered so far... UPS, 2 or 3 over the years (Fedex has competitive employees, while UPS has union employees...)).

Weird smell coming from the panels.. yuck! Is that what Viet Nam really smells like?!?

Is it better to peel off the plastic covering, check the wing, then cover with cloth?

Nice plane ... don't know why so many think it has no value ... many of the original planes from the first batch are flying and looping with 100+ hours of flight ... but one bad apple does spoil the bunch right?

So what is the true value of the plane? $0.00? $1200.00?

Yabe
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 04:06 PM
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Good to hear that at least some of the other Ka-8 owners are happy other than me! I figure one to two evenings worth of work to strip the inner panels, strengthen per K2K and other recommendations and I'll be good to go. The plane sure looks great in the air, almost as much presence as the Hempel half scale 7.5 meter Ka-6, a real majestic cruiser.

I modified my fuse to be a two piece unit, 3 bolts and it's assembled...two evenings to modify. Now I can easily transport the plane with its 4-piece wing in my car.

Happy flying,

Steve
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 09:36 PM
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USA, TX, Waco
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K8

Steve , can you show us how to do the fuse mod with some goood pics please.
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 02:56 AM
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North Yorkshire UK, on a big hill facing the prevailing wind. Coincidence?
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Originally Posted by SteveR View Post
I modified my fuse to be a two piece unit, 3 bolts and it's assembled...two evenings to modify. Now I can easily transport the plane with its 4-piece wing in my car.

Happy flying,

Steve
Hey SteveR...It took you a whole two evenings to make your fuse two-piece?

Pull too much elevator and you can have it in way more pieces in about 20 seconds.

Just kidding. I'm actually really tempted to buy this plane because I reckon it is safely flyable with the new spar and also I like that the manufacturers have at least made some effort to roll-out a fix. You don't see that kind of service very often, especially with something so ridiculously cheap.

Rog
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 08:53 AM
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You guys have sooooo little faith! Having modified a tow plane kit to have a two piece fuse it takes just a little more planning to do the same with a fully finished airplane. I did have to patch in some new covering on the back half of the fuse but was able to use all the existing covering on the front half.

Rog, to avoid the 20 second separation syndrome, I used 1/4" ply plates as the mating ends of both sides of the fuse. I had some almost telescoping carbon tubes on hand and with a little sanding, I persuaded them to mate nicely. They align the two halves.

In the center of the front half you'll see three female servo extension ends glued up as a block. Male servo extensions in the back half simply plug in.

Three 1/4" or similar Allen cap bolts hold the two halves together. I had to make up an extension wrench out of a carbon tube to secure the bolts. On one end I recessed an Allen key as a bolt starter. The other end has the key poking through the wall of the tube to secure it along with epoxy. Truth is you don't have to torque down the bolts...just snug them up is fine.

Takes about a minute to assemble the fuse. Great to be able to easily stuff a big 6 meter plane in a small car. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Steve
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 11:37 AM
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North Yorkshire UK, on a big hill facing the prevailing wind. Coincidence?
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Looks like a nicely engineered job Steve. I've done a similar thing on a couple of models, once using carbon tubes like you and the other time having two mating bulkheads on a 45 deg slope with a steel bolt and locating peg. Both worked fine.

Rog
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 02:10 PM
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Thanks Rog, would love to see how you executed the 45 degree slope approach, something I've thought about but couldn't quite figure out all the details.

Steve
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 06:17 PM
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Thanks for your interest Steve. My approach is maybe not as clever as I made it sound.

Like you, my aim was to make the glider easier to carry around. It's a semi-scale 4 metre glider based on an Alpina wing, but everything sections down to fit in a box less than 1 metre long. It works a treat and I've got to say it's my fave model of all time. The one I'd run back into a burning building for.

The section is just behind the wing root trailing edge. There's a 1/4" steel bolt (not shown) through the centre which pulls together the two bulkheads, each of which is a ply/carbon laminate strongly bonded to the rest of each fus section. There's a steel peg too that locates in a brass tube to stop the whole lot swivelling round.

Originally I had the rudder and elev servos in the tail section autoconnect via a Mpx greenie plug/socket permanently mounted in each fus section, but found that this was too rigid for the occasional (OK, frequent) rough landing. One side is now free floating.

Hope that makes sense and sorry if this amounts to a hijack!

Rog
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 06:26 PM
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Blenheim, NZ
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Wow, that really is a fine looking machine. I think I would have to help you put the for fire out. Just the thing to bring to NZ Rog.

Allan
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 06:42 PM
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New York
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Very neat, Rog. So is it the hole on the bottom that the locking bolt goes through? No issue with flexing/flexing away from the mating half at the top of the fuse?

Steve
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 08:55 PM
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Corner Ketch, DE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveR View Post
You guys have sooooo little faith! Having modified a tow plane kit to have a two piece fuse it takes just a little more planning to do the same with a fully finished airplane. I did have to patch in some new covering on the back half of the fuse but was able to use all the existing covering on the front half.

Rog, to avoid the 20 second separation syndrome, I used 1/4" ply plates as the mating ends of both sides of the fuse. I had some almost telescoping carbon tubes on hand and with a little sanding, I persuaded them to mate nicely. They align the two halves.

In the center of the front half you'll see three female servo extension ends glued up as a block. Male servo extensions in the back half simply plug in.

Three 1/4" or similar Allen cap bolts hold the two halves together. I had to make up an extension wrench out of a carbon tube to secure the bolts. On one end I recessed an Allen key as a bolt starter. The other end has the key poking through the wall of the tube to secure it along with epoxy. Truth is you don't have to torque down the bolts...just snug them up is fine.

Takes about a minute to assemble the fuse. Great to be able to easily stuff a big 6 meter plane in a small car. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Steve
Steve great job on the Mod , I have one extra here in Delaware in storage for a very close friend.
Instead of cutting the fuse I recommended He purchase a bigger trailer

I also recommended Him to move to Delaware as the taxes are like nothing and the storage fees are the same
Plus great thermal activity by the pool
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 10:03 PM
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creeve...I hear you loud and clear and have my best people working on it!
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 01:23 AM
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Australia, VIC, Surrey Hills
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Originally Posted by SteveR View Post
..to avoid the 20 second separation syndrome, I used 1/4" ply plates as the mating ends of both sides of the fuse. I had some almost telescoping carbon tubes on hand and with a little sanding, I persuaded them to mate nicely. They align the two halves.
Hi Steve,

Question about your mating formers... are they butt-jointed to the existing longerons and stringers, or have you notched them into the new formers?

Did you add any other structure?

cheers
Henryk
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