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Old Oct 23, 2012, 03:55 PM
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New York
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Thanks Bill, greatly appreciate Hobbico's outstanding product support!

Regards,

Steve
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 05:18 PM
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Jan 2003
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Wonderful...

I nearly bought one of these and until just now was very happy that I had NOT done so...but I am relieved for all my friends who have these are being supported by the Dealers and suppliers of this plane...

how refreshing of a story..
Kevin
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 06:19 PM
Vintage wood is the best!
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In a house
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So......has anyone seen the new wing panels? And are they the same as the pictures that I linked to on the German forums?
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:45 PM
LSF V aspirant
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United States, CA, Orange
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Are they giving Pat a whole new plane?

Tom
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:31 PM
k2k
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United States, CA, Oceanside
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Steve –

First how I did it and then how I should have done it.

The lower portion of the fuselage was covered with left and right sided pieces which extended the full length, up to the canopy cut out, middle level of the wing root, and upper longeron extending to the tail. A third piece covered the top rear and forward to include the triangular fairing of the center section. This piece of fabric was trimmed along the bottom of the top longeron. Not as much overlap as I would have liked, but enough. The forth piece covered the top of the center section and extended down over the wing roots with some overlap forward of the center of the wing root with the bottom piece. It is amazing what you can do with some heat and tension on the fabric. The last piece covered the nose top half. Tapes were applied over all the straight seams except along the bottom of the wing root.

It would have been interesting to have sewn an envelope, but since I lack that skill that was not in the cards.

I think a better approach would have been to glass the top center section up to the canopy opening and down to the level of the bottom of the wing root to avoid putting fabric on all those nasty compound curves. Although the fabric can be worked around the wing root and stuck down with the Poly Tak, it’s not easy and it came out a little bumpy at the forward intersection of the root and fuselage. When doing concave curves like that, the underlying surface needs to be prepped with a couple coats of glue, then the fabric is glued down by rubbing diluted Poly Tak through the fabric and bonding to the underlying glue.

At the forward wing root – fuselage intersection they painted the wood with a gummy yellow adhesive to keep the Ultracote stuck down. I managed to get this adhesive off with toluol. Toluene or xylene should also work.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Blenheim, NZ
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Well done Steve

Nice effort Steve, great to see a reworked model flying well and safely. I congratulate you on making the effort.

Loved the video

Allan
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:44 PM
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USA, KS, Wichita
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Tom,

I can tell you this, they are taking goog care of me.

See Ya,


Pat
Quote:
Originally Posted by tewatson View Post
Are they giving Pat a whole new plane?

Tom
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 03:29 AM
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For the aussi guys who bought from the first batch of ka8's like myself here is the official word from Our importer

http://www.modelengines.com.au/News_.../487-news.html
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 07:00 AM
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New York
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Ken, thanks very much for all the covering details, greatly appreciated. I like your idea about glassing around those nasty compound curves.

Steve
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 10:10 AM
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USA, TX, Waco
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Hobbico service told me this am that there would not be any available until January, Steve can you check on that if at all possible, Thanks
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 10:22 AM
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The Netherlands, OV, Haaksbergen
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In Germany, wings are being inspected at the dealer(Hillenbrand Modellbau). If it is not the new wing, no shipping will go. New wings are expected to leave the factory, delivery in december.

Joris
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:51 PM
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Here is a method to make the stab removable without taking off the vertical fin. A ply hold down tab is added to the rear of the stab and keys into a slot in the vertical fin stub. The cut out in the bottom of the stab needs to have parallel sides as the existing wedge shape will not allow it to be slid forward. The sheeting was cut back and new lite ply sides installed. The stab incidence was changed by 8 mm by routing down the stab saddle. The saddle was then raised about 3/16” to get the front edge of the stab cut out to the same level as the top of the center longeron. A wedge was added to the bottom of the vertical fin to tighten up the gap.

The incidence change is working out to be about right. The elevators have a little bit of up trim but the plane is still nose heavy. I started the cg at 145 mm and have subsequently removed all 8 oz of the loose nose weight and added 3 oz to the tail. I guessing 8 oz or more still needs to come out of the nose which will bring the elevators down into a neutral postion.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 02:38 PM
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Blenheim, NZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Nuts 181 View Post
For the aussi guys who bought from the first batch of ka8's like myself here is the official word from Our importer

http://www.modelengines.com.au/News_.../487-news.html
Shabby!, Model Engines should be lobbying the Manufacturer for the same deal on all your behalves.

Allan
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 02:52 PM
k2k
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Wheels

Modifying the mail wheel. A wheel box was made from 6 mm Finnish ply sized for a CB Associates 4.5” wheel. The stainless steel brackets were attached to the side plates with flat head 6-32 screws and blind nuts. The angle on the bottom of the fuselage is 120 degrees. A router template guide was made from hardboard and 30 degree wedges. Some additional chisel work was needed to extend the cut and provide clearance for the blind nuts. After fitting the box, it was glued in with a generous amount of polyurethane glue.

I decided to add a tail wheel because our main flying site is tarmac and makes short work of skids. The tail skid was cut off and hollowed out. An 1/8” ply plate was glued into the bottom and 1/16” G10 added to the sides for load bearing. The outside was glassed with two layers of 6 oz glass and the interior with multiple layers of 2 oz glass. The 2” wheel has an 1/8” music wire axle retained with E-clips.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 03:07 PM
k2k
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Skid

Adding a skid. The existing V-shaped skid was planed down to a flat about 5/8” wide. Two strips of 1/16’’ plywood were laminated onto the flat. An additional short piece of 1/8” ply was added to nose and was tapered down to meet the nose piece. A strip of 1/8” aluminum was screwed to the plywood. I will add a short piece of steel in the contact area of the skid as the aluminum will get chewed to bits by the tarmac.
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