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Old Jun 27, 2012, 10:41 PM
Vintage wood is the best!
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Build Log
Phoenix 6 Meter K8

All of us that got these with the help and hard work of SteveR can post pictures and questions/answers to how we assemble these!
First off we need to thank Steve for all the hard work he did to get these into the country....without his determination none of us would be $1100.00 poorer!
THANKS STEVE!!!

On to the plane....first impressions are that it is well made for the price point and finished out nice also....there are some inaccuracy's in the "scale" side...but for this kind of money the little things that are wrong are no big thing!
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 10:50 PM
Vintage wood is the best!
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What I did tonight was to unpack everything and started in on the fuse with locating the batteries/receiver/tow release.

The tow release is kind of funky in that it is located under the canopy and has a long aluminum tube that leads the tow loop into it....not ideal but since I want to get this in the air Friday I'm going to use it....what I'll do is use magnets to hold the canopy on so that hooking up the tow line shouldn't be that bad...we'll see!

The nose section has two compartments...the one in the front is where I plan to put lead weight so I mounted my batteries in the second one back...I'm using 3300mah NIHM 5 - cell packs feeding a Spektrum 9 channel powersafe receiver.

I also had to add plywood to the tow release servo hole to make it smaller to fit my servo which is a big arse 1/4 scale Hitec 805BB.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 01:19 AM
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Cool, so have you finished it yet?
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 07:56 AM
No substitute for aspect ratio
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Norwalk, CT aka the Nutmeg State -- I just can't seem to find any %$#@! nutmeg here?
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Yeah, the box says 2-4 hours. It's been nine hours. You should at least have two already built and be working on the third!

Glad to see they arrived and that so many are having their love for scale fed! Steve's group deal is a great case history to try to convince more companies to import large models.

As for the box label, is what you are saying that a group of men got together and were waiting for wood? I think there is a pill for that?

See you and it on Friday!
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 08:32 AM
No substitute for aspect ratio
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Norwalk, CT aka the Nutmeg State -- I just can't seem to find any %$#@! nutmeg here?
Joined Nov 2003
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BTW, the plane looks great, but I was really taken by the pilot. He's very "distinctive" looking.

I checked around and came to learn that the pilot actually has more R&D time invested than the rest of the model. Seems they used three different human subjects and had a team of craftsman create the composite image for the pilot. Now that's dedication!
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 10:53 AM
Vintage wood is the best!
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Hahaha the pilot does have a bit of a "dwarf" thing going on.....super short legs!
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 12:54 PM
Chicago Mayor: A Terrorist
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USA, CA, SoCal
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Subscribed...I should get mine next week :-)
If you're interested in a formal magazine review, there is a translation from German here (patient, translating takes a while after page is loaded). Original is here

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Old Jun 28, 2012, 01:13 PM
Less Whinning, More Flying
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Joined Feb 2003
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We need Mr. "Wood" to make more of these "Hand Made" creations!
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 04:07 PM
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New York
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Thanks for starting the build thread. That's got to be the weirdest tow release ever.

Does Mr. Wood supply a special gadget to get the tow line all the way back to the release mechanism?!

That aside, the plane looks great and happy to hear the fuse is just under 8' as that's the max length of my trailer!

Steve
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 05:03 PM
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Killingworth CT
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Looks pretty good Tom. It will be neat to see it tomorrow.

See ya in the morning.
LEN
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 05:06 PM
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Holland
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You could take the aluminium tube out of the nose and hollow out the noseblock from the inside out. Then put in the thick aluminium tow release part with a lot of epoxy filling up the space. I did something like this.
This way you can attach the tow line from the outside an don't have to take off the cockpit each time.

In order to be sure the nose block stays onto the fuselage when the tow line yanks it is important to reinforce the bonding between the nose block and the fuselage sides. I did this by glueing blocks of cast led in all the little side compartments in the nose with epoxy, mixed with short glass fibres.
Be prepared to put at least 5 to 6 lbs of led in the nose, as far forward as possible.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 11:15 PM
Vintage wood is the best!
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12 hours later today and it's done....at least done enough to fly.....if I had to put spoilers in it would not be finished....as it is I started at 9:00 am and closed the door on the trailer with everything in and ready at 11:30 with just two short breaks for lunch and dinner.....2 - 4 hours my ass!!
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 11:42 PM
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Think they meant 4 days
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harm View Post
You could take the aluminium tube out of the nose and hollow out the noseblock from the inside out. Then put in the thick aluminium tow release part with a lot of epoxy filling up the space. I did something like this.
This way you can attach the tow line from the outside an don't have to take off the cockpit each time.

In order to be sure the nose block stays onto the fuselage when the tow line yanks it is important to reinforce the bonding between the nose block and the fuselage sides. I did this by glueing blocks of cast led in all the little side compartments in the nose with epoxy, mixed with short glass fibres.
Be prepared to put at least 5 to 6 lbs of led in the nose, as far forward as possible.
Hi Steve, I have an even easier way to fix the tow release.

With a pair of multigrip liers, twist the tube to
Break the glue join. While holding the tube tap the pliers with a 2 lb hammer to drive the tube out the front and pull the remainder out with pointy nose pliers. Cut a 4" length of alloy tube from the original alloy and sleeve with a length of K&S brass tube sanding both ends flush. Now drill a hole 1/8" back from one end just above centre 4-40 in diameter, now cut a short length of piano wire and clue in with a fillet of thick CA.
Next up cut a length of dowl that is a tight fit and sand a 45 degree angle on the end of the dowl, this creates a ramp to slide your towline up behind the cross bar. The timber block is then glued inside the tube making sure the flat of the ramp coincides with the cross rod. To finish off drill a 4-40 hole down the middle of the dowl and allow clearance for the piano wire to slide easily.

To reinstall use a wood block and fore mentioned hammer.
Easy should take 1 1/2 hours
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 09:09 AM
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I should be picking mine up from my local Hobby Shop today or Monday depending on when the truck arrives. It was shipped from Great Plains on Wednesday so I am hoping for today. Missed out on the Group Buy but my LHS sold it to me for $1000.00 and no shipping or sales tax.

See Ya,


Pat
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