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Old Jul 11, 2012, 05:45 AM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
Joined Apr 2003
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Originally Posted by jdveirin View Post
Well, I have already tapered and rounded the rudder trailing edge. So, it is too late for me to join you in adding some area to the rudder.

The plans call for 1/16" ribs in the fin and rudder. That looked too small to me so I used some light weight 1/8." Ray, what did you use?


also used 1/8



Ray
Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever
http://www.skybewnch.com
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 09:34 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
fin, rudder, fuselage, wing joiner and tubes

The spruce doublers have been glued on the fuselage sides. By the time I got to the second fuselage side, I discovered that it is easier to add the triangular stock if you simply hold the fuselage side down firmly on the workbench with the triangular stick in place, the triangular stock will align perfectly while you put thin CA into the seam a few inches at a time as you go. I will put a thin coat of epoxy over the triangular stock and fiberglass the forward bay after the fuselage is assembled. Some of the holes in the fuselage sides are for the bellcrank for the elevator. After considering comments, including pm from Ken Bates, I am leaning toward putting the elevator servos in the wings (but putting the spoiler servo in the fuselage). So, while I may not use some of the holes, they are handy for aligning the fuselage sides. I am putting a tube, rod, or dowel through each hole. I put the formers in the fuselage bottom (not glued) and clamped the sides together to get a feel for how to jig it up to get a straight and square alignment.

The fin and rudder have been shaped and sanded with 220 grit. Final sanding with 320 will occur before covering. I have hinged the rudder. Because the posts on the hinges I used require a 1/8" hole, I put a 1/64" ply doubler on each side of each hinge hole. The plans call for a 1/8" plywood doubler for the control horn area. Ray Hayes' kit includes a 1/8" doubler cut to the shape on the plans. I don't see a need for a doubler that thick. I used Ray's part to cut 2 doublers from 1/32" plywood, one for each side of the rudder.

U used an Xacto miter box and mini hacksaw to cut the 1/4" brass tubes for the wing rods. I used an Xacto saw to finish the cuts. I filed the ends smooth and deburred the inside with a #11 blade. I used a Dremel moto tool cutoff wheel to cut the 7/32" wing rod (clamped in the wood vise on one of my benches) and filed the edges smooth. The rod slides in the tubes nicely.

I used a bandsaw to rough cut the nose block to shape. I hand drilled a 3/4" hole in the middle of F-1. I drilled a 3/4" hole 1/2" deep in the aft end of the nose block with a forstner bit. I drilled a 1/2" hole another 1/2" down with a forstner bit. I always hollow out a space in my nose blocks for weight. In large sailplanes, I line the hole with several layers of foil and then remove the foil "form" and pour lead into it with a paper clip or some kind of "U" sticking out of the end so the plug can be pulled out if necessary. I'll see how this one balances before deciding on whether to make a lead plug.

I found some 0.09 carbon rod I can use for the rudder pushrod.

I plan to put 2 servos in the fuselage for the rudder and spoilers and 2 in the wing for the elevator. I usually use Futaba servos. Since I fly where only 1 other person occasionally flies, I still use 72 mhz Futaba 4 channel radios. If anyone has any specific servo recommendations, let me know. Ken Bates recommends a rudder servo with at least 40 oz. torque.
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 02:59 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
I am looking at getting 4 servos, 2 for the wing for the elevator and 2 for the fuselage for the spoilers and rudder. I usually use Futaba servos. But, here is what I am looking at:

Hitec RCD Inc. 125MG Micro Thin Wing Servo for the wing and

Hitec 32085S HS-85MG Metal Gear Micro BB HS/HT Universal Servo in the fuselage.

Does anyone have experience with either servo or a better recommendation?
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 06:13 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
servos in wing

I have a lot of woodies and a lot of 75MHz receivers that I use with a number of Futaba 4 channel receivers. Once Castle Creations started offering 4 channel receivers for around $30, I started putting one in every sailplane and leaving it in there for convenience. Since I am the only one flying at my field except on very rare occasion, and since I do not fly at events, I have not updated to 2.4GHz equipment. I have one computer radio, an Airtronics Stylus. But, the receiver is for the old style Airtronics connectors. That means Futaba J and universal servo connectors cannot be used (without expensive and cumbersome conversion wires).

If I put servos in the wing for the elevator and/or spoilers, I planned on using Y connectors and using my 4 channel radios. But, I just read this from "Ray" on another thread:

"Don't use a y-harness for the spoiler servos, that is annoyance beyond all belief. No two servos respond the same to signal inputs and that is the major source of the problem. Of course differences in linkages and horn installation also come into play.

The servos in the wing for spoilers can be easy if you assign the right servo to channel 5 and the left servo to channel 6 [or vice versa].

Set both channels to operate off the same auxiliary switch. Then you have independent end point adjustment for each servo and each channel setup becomes trivial."

Has anyone used a Y conenctor for spoliers and elevator and had it work okay? I am going to check to see if I can get a receiver for my Airtronics Stylus that has universal connectors. That is also an option.
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 06:33 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
servos in wing

ChuckA,

Thanks for the link to your build log. I read it (good stuff) and also found your thread on servos in the wing. Your hookup mechanism for connecting the strings to the servo in the fuselage is simple, easily adjustable for each spoiler individually, and clever. If I use strings, I will use your engineering.
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 08:40 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
Notice the long blue reach tool hanging off the workbench. It cost less than $2 at Harbor Freight and is perfect for picking up things that fall to the floor while building so I do not have to get out of my chair.

The fuselage bottom in the Skybench kit did not fit the length of the fuselage. I am unsure why. It is flat on the sides without bowing out. So, I made a piece to extend the bottom to the nose block.

I put a thin coat of epoxy in the bottom of the first bay and on the triangular balsa throughout the fuselage. Next, I will put medium weight fiberglass in the bottom of the first bay.
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Old Jul 19, 2012, 03:48 AM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
Joined Apr 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdveirin View Post
I have a lot of woodies and a lot of 75MHz receivers that I use with a number of Futaba 4 channel receivers. Once Castle Creations started offering 4 channel receivers for around $30, I started putting one in every sailplane and leaving it in there for convenience. Since I am the only one flying at my field except on very rare occasion, and since I do not fly at events, I have not updated to 2.4GHz equipment. I have one computer radio, an Airtronics Stylus. But, the receiver is for the old style Airtronics connectors. That means Futaba J and universal servo connectors cannot be used (without expensive and cumbersome conversion wires).

If I put servos in the wing for the elevator and/or spoilers, I planned on using Y connectors and using my 4 channel radios. But, I just read this from "Ray" on another thread:

"Don't use a y-harness for the spoiler servos, that is annoyance beyond all belief. No two servos respond the same to signal inputs and that is the major source of the problem. Of course differences in linkages and horn installation also come into play.

The servos in the wing for spoilers can be easy if you assign the right servo to channel 5 and the left servo to channel 6 [or vice versa].

Set both channels to operate off the same auxiliary switch. Then you have independent end point adjustment for each servo and each channel setup becomes trivial."

Has anyone used a Y conenctor for spoliers and elevator and had it work okay? I am going to check to see if I can get a receiver for my Airtronics Stylus that has universal connectors. That is also an option.
Must be another Ray, I didn't write this, I don't fly Airtronics radios.

Ray
Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever
WWW.Skybench.com
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Old Jul 19, 2012, 08:21 AM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
It's another Ray.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Hayes View Post
Must be another Ray, I didn't write this, I don't fly Airtronics radios.

Ray
Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever
WWW.Skybench.com
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 09:08 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
The piece behind the nose block has been cut, hollowed out a bit, and epoxied to the fuselage. Five minute epoxy speeds things up. The nose block was epoxied on. Next comes the best part of building, shaping the nose block.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 12:06 AM
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United States, CA, Santa Ana
Joined Jul 2010
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Following,

Ross
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 11:36 AM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
Skybench partial kit

Ray,

I can figure out what all the parts go except these 2 plywood gussets. Where do they go?

The ribs in your partial kit are great. I cannot imagine fabricating those ribs by hand and getting them that accurate.

Thanks.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 04:34 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
Skybench partial kit

Upon further review, it looks like the 2 plywood gussets are for the wing mounted tow hook installation. There is 1 piece of 1/8" plywood 1 15/16" by 1 7/8" in the partial kit with a slot for the releasable tow hook. Since each wing half has to have a tow hook, shouldn't there be 2 of these pieces?
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 09:25 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
fuselage/wing fairing

Parts for the fairing between the fuselage and wing halves are not included in the Skybench partial kit. The fairing has to have holes for the main joiner rod and aft joiner rod, has to be shaped like the inboard wing rib, and has to have a 7 degree angle to meet the inboard wing rib. A 1/8" plywood cap rib is provided in the Skybench kit for the outboard end of the fairing on each side of the fuselage.

I am going to try to make the fairing out of one piece of 3/4" by 3" by 36" balsa. I cut the sheet in half. Next, I pinned the halves together and drew a line so that each half would be cut into two pieces that are 1" on one end and 2" on the other end. I then ran the halves through the band saw. After cutting, I used thin CA to glue the cut (and clamped) pieces together so I would have two blanks 1.5" thick and 1" wide on one end and 2" wide on the other end. The 1,5" blanks for the fairing should be just thick enough. So, I will have to hit the 1/4" main wing rod hole accurately.

After drilling the holes for the wing rods, the plan is to draw the curved fuselage outline on the inboard part of the blank so that the outboard edge of the blank is parallel to the cap rib on the plan. If that works, I can experiment with the bandsaw to get a 7 degree bevel by running the straight (outer edge) of the fairing blank against a rip fence on the bandsaw table. If that doesn't work, the backup plan will be to make a jig against the inboard fairing blank edge so I can run the inboard edge against a rip fence to get the outer edge of the blank parallel to the bandsaw blade to cut the bevel. Using the offcut from the fuselage outline may help under Plan B, but will not be sufficient itself because my fairing blank is not rectangular.

Shaping the fairing blanks to the rib outline will be the last step.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 08:53 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
fuselage/wing fairing

The first picture shows the 2 fairing blanks with the 7 degree angle on the outboard edge. The angle was easy to cut on the bandsaw.

The second picture shows the preparation for cutting out the shape of the fuselage side from the fairing blanks. I made a copy of the fuselage bottom view on the plans and cut it out as a pattern. If I did it again, I would put the fuselage itself on the copier for a more accurate pattern.

The plans depict the fairing, but the dimensions on the plans for the fairing are not exact. Ken Bates, the designer of the WIndlord, explains that the plans were hand drawn before the days of CAD for model plans. So, to try to obtain proper alignment, I am working from the center fuselage line on the bottom view on the plans. I have drawn a line 2" from the center line parallel to the center line. My fairing should end up 4" wide at all places measured from the outboard top edge on each side. The exact width does not seem to be critical. Uniformity of the width should assure proper alignment.

Since the fairing will determine the wing alignment, I am going slowly and trying to get it as accurate as possible.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 06:38 PM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
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Your right about the one piece should be two. To the best of my knowledge, releasable tow hooks are no longer available. Ask Ken Bates if he had releasable tow hooks on the Windlord he sold to Don Harris. I probably should discontinue them from the kit to reduce confusion.

Ray
Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever
WWW.skybench.com
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