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Old Jun 27, 2012, 09:39 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
Build Log
Windlord

Well, it is way past time for me to build something new. A guy who used to fly with me (Leonard Guthrie, now deceased) had a MB Raven. It flew well and got me interested in a flying wing. I have the plans for the Raven and an all wood kit for the 100" Klingberg wing. But, I decided to work my way up the wing ladder by starting with a Windlord. I got the partial kit from Skybench Aerotech. The parts are accurately laser cut. The edges are brown, which means I either have to sand the edges down to remove the brown or use opaque covering. I usually use transparent covering for my sailplane wings. The brown might look like the wood is stained under transparent covering. I am not sure I would like that look. I think I will take the easy way out and use opaque covering.

The wood is excellent quality in the partial kit which includes ribs, some wing and rudder and fin curved balsa pieces, and plywood fuselage formers and sides. I also bought the wing rod and tube from Skybench.

The plans do not come with the partial kit. I got the plans from AMA. The plans only show one half of the wing. I got an extra copy to deal with the second wing half. Unfortunately, Kinko's could not make a mirror image of something that large. The plans also do not show the fuselage top or bottom view. Nevertheless, the plans are adequate.

I do not fly at contests. So, I do not need to worry about exact fidelity to the original plans, etc. I winch launch on flat land and fly a variety of light floaters (Paragon, Oly II, Riser 100, Zeus, Bird of Time, Hobby Barn Sensoar, old free flight design converted to RC).

I have ordered balsa and spruce from National Balsa which should arrive soon. I have always used spruce spars. I debated about whether to use basswood spars this time. I read an article about the issue on Sig's website plus some other articles. I decided to go with spruce. It has worked okay on all of my sailplanes so far.

I have enough wood on hand to get started while I await my supplies from National Balsa. I will start posting pictures in a day or so. I hope to receive some useful feedback from the group along the way and hope others will find the Windlord project interesting.
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Old Jun 27, 2012, 09:52 PM
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pmackenzie's Avatar
Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
Joined Dec 2002
16,670 Posts
FWIW, here is my Windlord.
Fuse is just in primer and needs painting, but it has for a couple of years now

Have you seen the big Windlord thread by Ken Bates?

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=windlord

Lots of info in there.

Pat MacKenzie
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 08:48 AM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
Pat,

I have read Ken Bates' thread on the Windlord. For anyone who might not know, Ken Bates designed the Windlord and drew the plans. Ken tried all kinds of modifications in his build log. Interestingly, he ultimately decided that some aspects of the original might be better than the modifications. I am going to mostly build mine like the original. I plan to build the spoilers on top and use strings to activate them instead of putting servos in the wing. I plan to use the bellcrank for the elevator instead of putting servos in the wing. I am open to discussion on these points if others think servos in the wings would be a lot better.

Thanks for sharing the picture of your Windlord. You can't tell that it's just primer on the fuselage in the picture. How does it fly?

Jack
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 09:26 AM
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pmackenzie's Avatar
Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
Joined Dec 2002
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I would suggest you consider putting the servos in the wing. Mine had the bellcrank originally, and it was always a source of slop in the controls. The pivot for the crank is not in line with the elevator hinge, so you have to have the slot. By comparison the servos in the wing was very easy to set up. I have my horns a bit above the upper surface, while IIRC Ken had his below the top of the wing. I would make them even taller if I was going to do it again.

I also originally had the flaps on the bottom of the wing per the plans, but when I rebuilt the model to fly in RES at the Nats I moved them to the top. It does get pretty pitch sensitive with them up, but I might have too much throw.

It goes up the line very well using a bridle with two simple hooks on the wings. Biggest issue I have is that it just won't move out when I want it to.
Did get a couple of 1000s with it at our last RES contest (against a Danny and a Big Bird), but then the wind came up and the lift went away and the planes with more legs/ a bit less sink crushed me in a couple of rounds.

Pat MacKenzie
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 09:21 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
Pat,

I don't like the sound of slop in the controls. The only plane I have with servos in the wing is a Spirit 100. I can hunt for the plans for that to see how they are installed. Any specifics you can share for servos in the wing for the spoilers and elevator would be appreciated.

Your Winlord is so old you might not remember. But, do you recall what you did to anchor tow hooks in the wing? Do you use small screw in hooks?

Regarding the Windlord not moving out in wind, I am used to that. I generally fly very light thick airfoil gas bags.
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Tennessee
Joined Sep 2003
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I don't normally requrie plans to build my sailplane wings. I built them on a grid to align ribs and http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699593 shows how I build them. Over the last 40 years, I have actuated spoilers many ways and prefer pull strings to servos in the wing except when the spoilers are in outboard wing panels. Links in the thread show how I used strings to actuate the spoilers.
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 06:52 PM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
Joined Apr 2003
1,596 Posts
I have never flown a Windlord, but mine is fully framed up. I keep looking at the wings leading edge at the tips and thinking I'll fill the forward tip section with 4 lb balsa to create a smoother tip section. I should cover and fly first and then rehab the tip with blocks to see if I can detect any improvement in cruise speed. Just looks awfully dragging at the tips.

I'm debating between winch launching or winch in the nose. The debate centers around my coming attempt to fly the Max Patch bald located near I-40 outside the Smokey Mtns. Park. The Windlord will travel very nicely in a box and up the trail and probably make the most interesting flight video. I'm going to cover it to make it resemble a Bald Eagle. It will definitely look more like an Eagle without a prop on the nose.... Hmmm. ???

I have seen Ken Bates fly his in contests and he always seems to max out. The thing I remember most about Ken's flights is the very tight circling while in lift.

The nod seems to be going with the e power because of Max Patch, this will allow easy searching and saves if I get in trouble. I have never flown the Max, I think the winds will be a little tricky, hoping to learn it's wind currents the first outing so I can return with a hand launch and feel confident I won't loose it.

Jack, Wish you many happy hours of flying your Windlord.

Ray
Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever
http://www.skybench.com
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 12:30 PM
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Valparaiso, IN
Joined Apr 2005
740 Posts
Winch-in-the nose Windlord

Ray,
Please post your "winch-in-the-nose" set-up for the Windlord. That makes an already desirable sailplane even more so. Who knew that giving Ken a Windlord I rescued from a swap meet (it had had a 0.15 in the nose) would result in a Windlord revival?
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 03:54 PM
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pmackenzie's Avatar
Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
Joined Dec 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdveirin View Post
Pat,

I don't like the sound of slop in the controls. The only plane I have with servos in the wing is a Spirit 100. I can hunt for the plans for that to see how they are installed. Any specifics you can share for servos in the wing for the spoilers and elevator would be appreciated.

Your Winlord is so old you might not remember. But, do you recall what you did to anchor tow hooks in the wing? Do you use small screw in hooks?

Regarding the Windlord not moving out in wind, I am used to that. I generally fly very light thick airfoil gas bags.
Hi,
sorry for the delayed response. Just got back from "The Bruce" DLG contest in Kentucky over the weekend. I will post some pics of what I did as soon as I can.
Might be a day or two though, kind of beat after flying for 3 days in +100 degrees temps , and then the drive home.

Ray, you are right about the tight circles, it likes to stand up on its tip and spin like a top. Actually can be a bit hard to get it to come out of the turn where you want it to.

Pat MacKenzie
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 08:54 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
Well, my wood will not get here until late next week

I have started the fin and rudder. I will start posting pictures after the 4th.

Jack
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 09:06 PM
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United States, NY, Lewiston
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to make a mirror image plan for your wing, just grease your plan with crisco and turn it over.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 04:51 AM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
Joined Apr 2003
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Pat,

Thanks for the tip, I'll experiment ... making the rudder larger by way of adding an inch width to the tailing edge before covering.

Ray
Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever
http://www.skybench.com
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 09:18 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
fin and rudder

Ray,

Why are you making the rudder trailing edge larger?

My wood arrived from National Balsa. Attached is a picture of the fin and rudder. I have rough sanded them to thin the leading edges and the trailing edge of the rudder. I tend to be aggressive with the sanding block to thin the edges of the fin and rudder on my sailplanes. Hence, I try to remember not to land upside down.

I changed the internal structure a bit. I cut off the forward 1/2" from the bottom piece of the rudder from the Skybench supplied part and extended the leading edge of the rudder all the way down. I am omitting the sheeting. I made a bottom "rib" for the fin. I put the 2 fuselage sides on top of a piece of 1/2" x 1/4" to cut the bottom edge to fit the top of the fuselage side. I used the leading edge of the fin to cut the angle of the forward part of the "rib." I prefer to have the entirety of the bottom of the fin attach to the fuselage. I notched the 2 vertical pieces into the "rib" that will attach to the fuselage bottom along with the trailing edge of the fin. I also added a gusset to the joint between the fin leading edge and bottom rib. The fin leading edge parts in the Skybench kit are very good and speed up construction.

I usually use transparent covering for my sailplanes. But, I am not inclined to sand all of the brown from the edges of the laser cut parts and I don't think I would like seeing the brown through transparent covering. So, I plan to use opaque monokote.

I did have one issue building the fin and rudder. I used monokote clear backing over the plans. I don't know if it is because the backing I used is old, but some of it stuck to the glued joints. It sanded off. But, I am using wax paper for the rest of the build.

I'll do a bit more sanding on the fin and rudder and then start on the fuselage or wing.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 05:24 AM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
Joined Apr 2003
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I added 1/2" width to the TE because of Pat's comment about leaving a tight circle.

Ray, you are right about the tight circles, it likes to stand up on its tip and spin like a top. Actually can be a bit hard to get it to come out of the turn where you want it to.

Pat MacKenzie

Ray
Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever
http://www.skybewnch.com
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 05:57 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
135 Posts
fin and rudder

Well, I have already tapered and rounded the rudder trailing edge. So, it is too late for me to join you in adding some area to the rudder.

The plans call for 1/16" ribs in the fin and rudder. That looked too small to me so I used some light weight 1/8." Ray, what did you use?
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